Free or Cheap Ways to Fix Winter Skin

I love the transition from hot weather to cold, but my skin decidedly does not. Whether I'm living in frigid Scotland or temperate California, my skin protests the changing seasons  by erupting in acne (often caused by dehydration) and exacerbated by indoor heating and dryness.

As long as I can remember, every winter that I've been aware of my own skim, I've gone into a moisturizer-buying frenzy when the temperatures dip. Black Friday and holiday sales/new releases only encourage that bad habit. I'm never more gripped by unsubstantiated and overblown marketing messaging than I am when my face is flaking off.

I've noticed a lot of my followers and mutuals on Instagram falling over themselves to bolster their routines with winter's arrival, and they often do so by splurging on new supposedly heavier-duty creams, high-tech treatments, and plsuh-sounding masks. But I've found, for the most part, that's not the most economical or efficient way to save your face. Here are the things that make the most difference for me, in the shortest amount of time, with the least financial outlay:

Get a humidifier 

Shit, get two humidifiers. Put one on your desk at work, and put one on your nightstand for when you sleep. My face starts cracking around my jawline like clockwork the 3rd week of October (coincides with my birthday, thanks for the gift, Universe, you REALLY shouldn't have) and usually I'm too lazy to set up the humidifier until a few weeks later. But when I do set it up, I'm always astounded at the difference I feel in my skin. It's not instantaneous, but within 3 days, I notice increased comfort throughout the day, better makeup weartime, and less irritation and sensitivity when using acids or masks. I live in California- we do not have harsh weather. But most people crank up the heat in their cars, offices, and homes when the temperature starts to drop below their comfort zone (in California, that's under 68 degrees) and indoor heating wrecks even the most resilient of moisture barriers. Don't cry about humidifiers being expensive when I saw your Instagram stories justifying your desperate Drunk Elephant moisturizer purchases! A $60 humidifier will last multiple winters and pay for itself.

Ointment up, girl 

Vaseline, Aquaphor, Cerave Healing Ointment, Biafine...there are so many options out there, and they all cost peanuts. During summer you might have the luxury of falling asleep with a whisper of gel-cream, or a light layer of hydrating toner on your face, but in the winter you need a heavy duty arsenal. I use my ointments as sleeping mask, spot "treatments" for dry spots even under makeup, and most importantly, I use them to bolster the strength of my existing every day face creams. By mixing a blob of Cerave Cream (nowhere near potent enough to carry my face through a winter's night) with a blob of Aquaphor, I can make my wimpy day moisturizer into a powerhouse night mask, without shelling out for three "sexy" new night creams that end up disappointing me or breaking me out. If you're not hardcore and you don't enjoy having a literal full face of Vaseline when you fall asleep, you're wrong, but you can do my sleeping mask trick as a final step.

Oil is your friend 

Seriously, if you're not already a facial oil convert, you're missing out. It's [current year] and you have no excuse. There's some debate as to whether facial oils work better when applied BEFORE creams or after. Especially during winter, I say porque no los dos, and I oil-sandwich my night cream and let it all soak in while I slumber. The trick with facial oils is to apply them to not-fully-dry skin (usually I'll press on a layer of toner or gel essence, wait for it to soak in 50-75%, then go in with my oil) and also to press into the skin sparingly. You can always go back and add a few drops, but my skin prefers less oil, layered, rather than a whole puddle of oil slapped on at once. Although my skin loves many lightweight oils like jojoba, green tea seed, and hemp oil in the summer, in the winter I focus on heavier oils like mineral, lanolin, and pomegranate oil. Pure oils are remarkably cheap, even "precious" ones like pomegranate oil. Once I've determined what my skin likes by buying small samples from Garden of Wisdom, I search for bulk suppliers to get the best $/oz. I buy $28 for a pound of pomegranate seed oil. Trust me when I say the investment in oils is worth it, and minimal when compared to purchasing ready made products. My favorite trick is to mix a bottle of 50/50 light and heavy oil (my current go-to combo is green tea seed + lanolin oil) and keep a bottle on my bathroom counter to mix into my routine anywhere I want. It's cheaper than store-bought oils, so you can be really generous and frequent with application. The thing I love most about pure oils is how versatile they are in my routine. I've mixed a few drops of facial oil with my toner as a first step when my skin was raw and dehydrated, but I needed my face to be less greasy for makeup prep. You can apply oil at any point in your routine, mixed or unmixed, and it will do something slightly different. Experiment with "timing" and ratios of oil:other skincare and you'll be amazed at how cheaply you can stretch your routine.

Use less, not more, skincare 

With this I'm specifically side-eyeing your (I'm sure) highly reasonable stack of acids, exfoliators, masks, and treatments. During the winter, your skin will tolerate less. That's just the truth. You're sick more often, you're exposed to harsh outdoor weather and indoor climate control, you're probably eating like crap and sleeping odd hours due to your circadian rhythms getting dicked by the lack of sunlight...give yourself a break. Give your skin a break. This doesn't mean you can't treat acne or aging concerns for half the year, but if your skin is rebelling, and you are throwing more products at it to make it behave, take a beat and think about removing  a few steps before you add more. I specifically back way off of BHA usage in the winter- most weeks using it only once instead of 3-4 times like my summer schedule. I also completely swear off all clay masks from October to March, even though I adore them. I tend to avoid all physical exfoliation in the winter. I lean heavily on diluted tea tree oil and azelaic acid as those are the two least-drying but still-effective acne-fighters in my routine. Even glycolic acid, which my normally hardy skin loves, needs to be used with caution because it can cause tightness and itchiness on skin sensitized by winter. The best part about this tip (toots own horn discreetly) is you're encouraged to spend less not more. You do not need to buy One Magical Thing, Darling to fix your face. You need to listen to your own needs and be patient, even if that's less sexy and satisfying than blowing your skincare budget on 5 new cool-sounding moisturizers.

Turn the thermostat down 

Hi Hungry, I'm Dad! Seriously, this may not be an option depending on where you live or who you share a living space with...but if you can at all avoid running the heat, do it. Not only will it save you money, it will also save your poor dehydrated skin. I run hot, I'll admit, but I bundle up in cozy pajamas and wool socks when I'm bumming around the house in wintertime. I never turn the heat on unless I have an overnight guest who runs cold, and because of where I live, that works for me. Of course this is not a cold turkey directive- if you live somewhere with a more punishing climate, you may need to run the heat. But think about reducing your usage whenever possible. Bundle up more, put an extra quilt on the bed, even use a heating pad or blanket in place of running the forced-air heater. Your skin will thank you.

Wash your hands way more

And keep an extra tube of your favorite cheap face cream as a hand cream. I will admit I tend to wash my hands less in the winter even though I touch my face more. Either from feeling cold, or being annoyed at extra breakouts or dryness, my hands definitely wander to my chin and cheeks more than they should. And clean hands will mitigate the damage to some degree. In addition, washing hands a crapton is the best way to avoid catching cold. Personally, I get sick every single time there's "something going around," but the winter that my mom did chemo, I was so terrified of infecting her with a bug that I washed my hands upwards of 10 times a day. And I didn't get sick that whole year.
I avoid washing my hands in winter for a few reasons- one is that the sensation of cold water is obviously bothersome. Solution: run the hot water if you can. Just do it. The other reason I avoid it is because my already-dry hands feel drier the more I wash. I solve this by keeping a tube of cheapo face cream by my keyboard. This way if I touch my face I don't leave greasy, breakout-inducing hand cream swatches everywhere. Face cream is sufficient for daytime hand dryness and won't provoke more breakouts if I do touch my face.

Wash your clothing and bedding more frequently 

In the summer, I tend to wear low necklines and use next to no bedding. In the winter, I'm bundled up in scarves, turtlenecks, and you better believe I have my duvet pulled up around my face when I fall asleep. All of these cozy, cuddly items gather dirt and grossness and should be treated as breakout hazards. So be sure to switch out your sweaters, coats, and bedding whenever possible, and spot clean if you can't run them through the machine.

Break up with "always never" rules 

Maybe you think your skin tolerates alcohol all the time- I've been known to insist that. Maybe you know for a fact that you can't use heavy sleeping packs. Changes beget more change. Changes in temperature and habits during winter might affect your skin in unknown ways. Don't be scared to experiment and push the limits a little with how heavy your routine is at night, how much and what products you use, etc. Your skin in summer is not the same as your skin in winter and I know it's scary to play by different rules, but it's better to face facts than to insist your alternate reality is the truth.

Be kind to yourself

I'm a filthy capitalist shill, not a corporate shill. Companies love to lump your bothersome winter problems into a cutesy self-care package that conveniently stuffs into a stocking for the holidays. The truth is, you have more important things to spend your cash on than 5 new moisturizers. Some common sense and holistic self-care (holistic here meaning with regard to your whole person and routine, not just skincare) will do more for your wellness this winter than an advent calendar of travel-sized hydrating lies.

What to Do with a Niacinamide Allergy

If you've spent any time perusing ingredients lists or learning about skincare science, you've come across niacinamide. Niacinamide is an antioxidant/vitamin (Vitamin B3) and it is a gold star ingredient for so many skin types and problems. From the title of this post you've probably guessed- but I have an unfortunate allergy to the ingredient. And I've met many others who share this problem. Usually an ingredient sensitivity is no big whoop- most ingredients have easy "dupes" which replicate the same effect. Not quite so with niacinamide- and that's because niacinamide does so many damn things, and it does them so well...

• Repairs damaged moisture barrier

• Soothes and relieves irritation and redness

• Works well to diminish acne

• Assists in fading hyperpigmentation

This wonder-ingredient does it all, and for the people who can happily use it, go away nobody likes you, but if you are allergic like me, here are some of the ingredients I've substituted in my routine in place of common niacinamide products. I will also list some great products I have successfully used that achieved for me what niacinamide does for others, but keep in mind this is not an exhaustive list. Since niacinamide is such a superstar, I am taking a multi-pronged approach to "duping" its presence in a routine- I will talk about both ingredients and delivery systems that can help with the same problems niacinamide addresses...

Barrier Repair

Those of you with dehydrated skin will be familiar with the concept of the skin's natural moisture barrier. The moisture barrier is the mechanism by which our skin protects itself and holds moisture. It is of utmost importance to skin health, function, and appearance. Dehydrated skin can be dull, flaky, painful, and prone to inflamed acne. Where niacinamide usually swoops in to help fix up a damaged moisture barrier, I substitute a few key elements...

• Ceramides: Ceramides and niacinamide are best buddies, found in many formulations side-by-side. But you don't need niacinamide to have a party. Ceramides, paired with fatty acids and cholesterol are still great for topical use to bolster a damaged or weakened moisture barrier. They're common in creams, but you can also find some toners and serums that contain these powerhouses.

• Facial oils: I neglected facial oils for a long time, thinking my oily skin didn't need them or wouldn't like them. I was incredibly wrong. I now think that basically everyone can benefit from some type of facial oil blend in their daily routine. Indeed, if you are suffering some type of dehydration in particular, you will probably find that the right mix of oils will help your skin recover some of its bounce and resilience.

• Heavy petrolatum-based balms: Niacinamide helps fix your moisture barrier, actively. Occlusive agents, petrolatum being the best of the best, won't immediately "go to work" on your skin, but they protect it and bolster its ability to repair itself naturally. It's not like a surgery to reset a bone, but like a cast to protect it while it heals. Sensitivites to petrolatum occur, but they are incredibly rare. It's something any skincare beginner can adapt to their routine, as it's unlikely to cause breakouts, but will absolutely get your moisturizing routine off to a good start.

Recommendations:

Ceramides:

Cerave Moisturizing Cream

Meishoku Ceracolla Gel

Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Liquid

Facial oils:

Stratia Fortify Oil

The Ordinary Squalane Oil

The Ordinary Marula Oil

Petrolatum-based occlusives:

Vaseline

Cerave Healing Ointment

Aquaphor

Anti-Inflammation

• Copper Tripeptide: This is a bit of a hand-wavey next-gen antioxidant, but after using some copper products for a few months, I can see the redness reduction and pro-skin repair effects on my own face. I think that in the next 5 years, we will see more research and products with this ingredients, which encourages collagen production and reduces inflammation. Great for acneic and aging skin concerns.

• Snail Mucin: There's a reason things like starfish and bee venom have somewhat faded in popularity, but snail remains a staple in so many Asian skincare lovers' routines. Products containing snail tend to be exceptionally good at relieving irritation, redness, and inflammation. Great for use if your skin is irritated by climate, excessive picking (hey you! Stop that!), or a breakout.

• Madecassoside/Centella/Madecassic Acid: This ingredient can be found in a pure botanical extract form and some derivatives.

via LaRochePosay.us

Recommendations:

Copper:

NIOD Copper Amino Isolate

Skin Biology Super CP Serum

Snail:

Mizon All in One Snail Repair Cream

CosRX Snail 96 Essence

Madecassoside:

Klairs Supple Preparation Toner
La Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume B5

Anti-Acne

Of course there are many treatments out there for acne, but what makes niacinamide so useful for an acneic person is its gentle nature. Many acne-focused ingredients are harsh, sensitizing, and can cause problems for beginners. I will not be talking about those obvious acne treatments, but the ones that fall in the same category as niacinamide- gentle, fairly foolproof, and supplemental to harsher steps you might already have.

• Azelaic acid: I have personally found that AzA resolves my inflamed acne with fewer side effects and greater speed compared to BHA and retinoids. Read this excellent Snow White and the Asian Pear post for more AzA details. A great benefit of AzA is it works to relieve inflammation, redness, and rosacea as well as acne, so it's the antithesis of your average drying acne treatment. 

• Honey: Raw honey will always have a special place in my heart. Its ability to repair and soothe skin while giving the effect of a more-drying clay mask makes it a no-brainer weekly treatment for acne-prone folks. Here is my method for creating mess-free DIY honey masks which you can use regularly- daily if you like. Honey is nourishing, gentle, and purifying for acne-riddled skin. It's something you can use alongside any acne regimen.

• Tea Tree: I know, I know- so many people would call this "harsh" and unforgiving as far as acne treatments go. The problem most people have is they either use alcohol-laden formulas with a tiny hint of tea tree or they commit the mortal sin of applying tea tree oil straight up to their faces. This will give you horrible chemical burns eventually, and is not advisable under any conditions. However, I find TTO mixed at a 2% concentration into a gentle carrier oil (jojoba, argan, camellia, mineral, rosehip, squalane) makes for a lovely gentle allover treatment. I use a few drops mixed into my moisturizer nearly every day to incorporate this anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial ingredient without compromising my skin's moisture levels.

via Glowrecipe.com

Recommendations:

Azelaic Acid:
The Ordinary 10% Azelaic Acid Suspension
Melazepam 20% Cream

Honey:
Raw honey

Tea tree:
DIY 2% tea tree oil blend
LJH Tea Tree Essence

Fading Hyperpigmentation

• Arbutin: Alpha-arbutin promotes skin brightening and fading of visible UV damage in the form of dark spots/post acne spots. It's rarer than niacinamide, but I've found it to be excellent for brightening, caring for PIH, and overall skin tone. 

• Vitamin C: Vitamin C is definitely a little stronger/more intense than niacinamide, but it's not quite as tricky to introduce as an exfoliating acid. L-Ascorbic Acid is the form of Vitamin C that has the most proven efficacy for affecting skin tone and texture, and can be found in many serums. This is a great active to use, even if you are already using acids or retinoids.

• Licorice root extract: Found in many Asian skincare products, licorice is an all-round great- not quite as multifunctional as niacinamide, but it comes close. Its main benefits are brightening and soothing for redness/irritation. 

via Amazon.com

Recommendations:

Arbutin: 
DHC Arbutin Masks
Hada Labo Shirojyun Line
Kikumasamune High Moist Lotion

Vitamin C:
Timeless Vitamin C Serum
Stratia Vitamin C (coming soon-
check the Stratia Instagram Page!)

Licorice Root:
Paula's Choice Redness Relief Toner
TonyMoly I'm Real Mask (Rice)
Naturie Hatomugi Skin Conditioner

2017 Favorites: Skincare

Whamisa Green Tea Serum Toner

A post shared by @faceonomics on Sep 22, 2017 at 7:01pm PDT

2016 saw me raving about Klairs Supple Preparation Toner. It was the first Asian toner that didn't break me out and actually gave me visible hydration results. I recommended it to dozens of people, many who ended up loving it as much as me. Then I betrayed the happy little relationship and cheated with the brand-new Whamisa Green Tea Serum Toner.

This toner is a product of the collaboration between the Korean brand Whamisa and the USA-based KBeauty shop Glow Recipe. It contains alcohol, making it unsuitable for some sensitive skins, but perfect for my oily, dehydration-prone face. This toner gives me a bounce and radiance I don't get from the Klairs. It absorbs quickly and gets the job done, making it ideal for quick routines and long luxurious ones alike.

I think of this as the little sister of the (original) Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Liquid. Though she be watery, yea she is mighty. I can apply multiple layers of this for the "7 Skin Method" or just a single layer, and my skin immediately looks smoother and more hydrated.

I purchase this product from Target.com where it runs between $15 and $22 depending on current coupons and sales.

Stratia Velvet Cleansing Milk

A post shared by @faceonomics on Dec 14, 2017 at 7:30pm PST

First cleansers came and went this year- I've bounced between oils, balms, and micellar waters. But the one thing that remained constant is the Velvet Cleansing Milk. This cleanser is stickier to the touch compared to something like Ponds Cold Cream. You'd never mistake it for a leave-on lotion, it's undoubtedly a cleanser. It's texture makes it luxurious and oh-so-gentle when applied to a damp or dry face and massaged. It glides over the skin but latches onto dirt and grime, whisking it away without leaving a trace.

National Parks/Forests here in the USA often have signs which instruct you to Leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but memories from protected wildlife areas (i.e. don't throw garbage on the ground, don't kidnap squirrels.) That's the sentiment that I always recall when talking about the Velvet Cleansing Milk. It somehow leaves zero residue, yet it doesn't strip anything away that shouldn't be removed.

I purchase this product from StratiaSkin.com where it is $15 full price, but I wait for the occasional 20% off sales that Stratia holds for major holiday weekends.

Whamisa Organic Flowers & Aloe Mask

A post shared by @faceonomics on Jun 5, 2017 at 11:05am PDT

I bought this mask as kind of a joke- har har let's see what these suckers paying $9.00 per mask are wasting their time on- and I ended up pranking myself, bro. Because this $9.00 slippery gel mask has become indispensable in my routine. I actually rearranged my skincare budget simply to allow for at least a once per week use of this mask.

The effects I notice cannot be overstated. When my skin is stressed out, either because I myself am stressed, or because I touched it, picked it, flew on an airplane, wore my makeup for too long...this stops the skin stress in its tracks and actually reverses it. It produces a pure and beaming glow on my face that looks like I've applied an expensive illuminating primer. It smooths the rough edges on healing acne. It flattens cysts in their tracks. It restores a firm plump texture to deflated, dehydrated skin.

I love having a stash of these bad boys because it I ever have a desperate SOS (Save our Skin) week when everything seems to be going up in flames, I will apply one mask at night, follow with a simple nighttime routine, and then apply one  more mask the next morning, and it is a guarantee that my bad skin week will be dead in the water.

The only complaint I have for this mask, and it's minor, is that the jelly residue it leaves on the skin is unwearable under makeup and does not fully absorb. It does not leave a heavy sensation, but if you rub anything on top- oil, cream, foundation, it will get streaky and pilly. So it's best to use at nighttime, or when you use in the daytime, rinse briefly with water. That sounds horrible, like you're wasting the precious essence, but my skin still looks just as incredible when I wear this as a morning mask and then rinse gently with water only.

I purchase these from Glow Recipe when there is a 25% off discount, or through Amazon Prime when I'm in a rush at $9/each.

Stratia Fortify Oil

A post shared by @faceonomics on Mar 18, 2018 at 10:34am PDT

Another Stratia rave- I can't help it! Fortify is an oil blend that made me believe in oils again. It's composed of camellia, borage, perilla, squalane, marula, jojoba, cranberry, and tamanu oils, and the ratio is just-right for restoring, soothing, and protecting the skin. The name Fortify is apt-  I feel that this has strengthened my skin barrier and allowed it to take a bit more abuse without falling back into its old ways. It heals irritation and gives a bouncy, pliable texture to my skin.

In the past, a few major events would trigger a full-on skin meltdown. These include the transition from Fall to Winter and airplane travel. I traveled internationally this fall and my skin got a double wallop, yet it remained perfectly in balance, and actually continued to improve during my trip and after I got home. I attribute a large chunk of the credit to Fortify, as it's the one item I didn't skip in a single morning or nighttime routine during my travels. Between jet lag and general fatigue, I admit that I had a hard time completing my usual 10 step night routine. But I always applied a puddle of Fortify, sometimes mixed with essence, sometimes mixed with my night cream, sometimes just used alone after washing my face. And my skin was happy as a clam.

There are so many options for facial oils nowadays- you can purchase raw ingredients or buy from a number of brands who make their own. I think that the Stratia Fortify is a must-have for any facial oil lover, and a great beginner oil due to the versatile texture (neither too light nor too heavy) and the reasonable price point.

This product is $18 on StratiaSkin.com but again, I usually stock up during sales.

SNP Bird's Nest Aqua Ampoule Mask

A post shared by @faceonomics on Aug 29, 2017 at 8:26pm PDT

This humble cotton sheet mask has beaten out the dozens of masks I tried in 2016 and 2017 to win my heart. One thing first off- it is much cheaper than the Whamisa, but it does not have quite the miraculous all-round effects of that one. What it does is drench my skin in moisture and fix any tightness, flaking, or dehydration issues that come with hormonal swings, travel, and climate changes.

My skin responds very poorly to indoor heating and A/C, so it's at war with my office climate during the summers and winters especially. My occlusive morning routine is usually enough to prevent any major damage, but when I feel parched, I slather on Stratia Fortify and slap on the SNP mask, and all is right in the world. There are dozens of "types" of sheet masks out there, but nearly every one of them provides a basic level of hydration. The SNP destroys every other sheet mask I've sampled as far as hydration goes. It absorbs into my skin completely and the effects last for days. It also gives me a great radiance boost, which only lasts about 24 hours (compared to the multiple-days glow I get from the Whamisa) but it's lighter texture makes it an exceptional special event/morning mask.

I purchase these through eBay and Amazon where a 10-pack runs between $14 and $16.

NIOD SDSM2

A post shared by @faceonomics on Nov 6, 2017 at 5:51pm PST

Oh Deciem, you science-washing, pretentious, crap-at-logistics company, you. I've expressed what I find distasteful about the Deciem umbrella of brands as a whole, but I do believe they offer quite a few quality products. NIOD is the expensive and elegant member of the Deciem family, and the products in their range often boast very odd and next-gen ingredients. SDSM2 is one such product. Its full name is the Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist 2 (the first version was reformulated and improved upon this year.)

It claims to prevent water loss, reduce oxidative/environmental stress, and improve skin's ability to repair. I did not want to love this product, due to the price and my lukewarm feelings toward the company that makes it. However, I can say in the month and a half since I began using it, I notice my skin having that tiny bit more resilience to dehydration. The week before I started SDSM2, I felt the creeping tightness usually associated with winter right after washing my face, and after 4 days of using the mist, that was gone (without additional tweaks to my routine.)

After blowing through a third of my bottle, as the fine mist feels luxurious spritzed 10-12 times per use, I saw someone on Instagram suggest to dispense it into your palm and press it on like a first essence. That works like gangbusters, has the same effects as a more liberal mist, and stretches this bottle of liquid money much further. When I repurchase this, I plan to decant it into a dropper bottle which allows for even greater control over the portion size.

Melazepam

Before and After skin transformation from Spring 2016 to Autumn 2017! If you want to read my current skincare routine in its entirety, I just wrote it up in a blog post. Click the link in my bio to read 👆👆👆 - #skincarecommunity #instaskincare #rasianbeauty #beforeandafter #365inskincare #carolinehironsmademedoit #skincarejunkie #skincareroutine #morningskincare #eveningskincare #sdsm #stratiaskin #bioderma #whamisa #cosrx #vichyusa #snailskincare #hormonalacne

A post shared by @ faceonomics on Dec 5, 2017 at 9:03am PST

After struggling with beastly hormonal acne for years, I have found a miracle cure in Azelaic Acid. I began my current treatment plan of 20% azelaic acid the first week of December 2016, and while I saw dramatic results within the first few weeks, the gains have only snowballed since then.

Azelaic acid addresses redness and acne but it is not a traditional exfoliating acid like BHA or AHA, so it can be used in an acid-heavy routine without the same risk of dehydration that you get with layering multiple AHAs or BHA. For me, it was much more effective and gentle compared to prescription tretinoin.

I currently use the Melazepam treatment cream, which can be purchased over the counter in the USA via several online sources. It feels like the average prescription acne topical, which is to say it's quite clunky, thick, and drags on the skin. It's not cosmetically elegant, but if you saw results like my before and after...would you care?

I purchase this from Amazon Prime for around $13, and it can also be purchased on VitaminShoppe.com.

Heritage Lavender Spray

A post shared by @faceonomics on Dec 14, 2017 at 7:38am PST

This is the simplest product on my favorites list, and also wins the title of "most ridiculous ingredients list," as it claims to contain specially-magnetized water that benefits the skin. I just want to make it clear that that is pure distilled magnetized stupid, and the reason this spray is a favorite is that it's simple, soothing, and hydrating. You cannot get more basic than a glycerin-in-water mist, which is what the Heritage spray is.

You can easily DIY your own mist if you are confident, own a kitchen scale, and understand the important of preservatives. If not, or you're just lazy like me- this is a wonderful inexpensive option. My skin actually prefers glycerin mists to any mists containing hyaluronic acid, so I'm not bothered by the simplicity. I can tell a huge difference in my skin's moisture levels especially during the winter if I spritz this on between applying my skincare steps.

It smells beautifully of light, non-soapy lavender, and the rosewater version has an equally enchanting smell. If you are not sensitive to or allergic to rosewater, I definitely suggest picking that one up as well.

I buy this on Amazon Prime for between $7 and $9.

Cerave Healing Ointment

A post shared by @faceonomics on Dec 11, 2017 at 8:52pm PST

The Cerave Healing Ointment is a hero product that's been featured in many posts of mine. If you're new to skincare, I will always advise you purchase a petrolatum-based ointment to use over your skincare at night. It locks in the moisture, prevents dehydration, and acts as a "crutch" for damaged moisture barriers. Vaseline is the beginner-friendly option due to the price and the simple ingredients list, but if you're ready to level up your #sluglife game, pick up a jar of the Healing Ointment.

I have to note the cost (which ranges from $10 to $20) is extremely reasonable considering I've used it once daily for 13 months and I'm only halfway done with my jar. The product features the all-powerful petrolatum, the single most effective barrier against transepidermal water loss, but it also boasts hyaluronic acid, ceramides, along with fatty ingredients like cholesterol and phytosphingosine. This all-star cast of protective, skin-repairing ingredients are so helpful for repairing dehydration and preventing it in the first place.

I love to mix this with another product to use as a final layer at night, but on lazy days I just use it on its own. It doubles as a "lip sleeping mask" (if you're extra like me) or a plain protective balm. This is one of the best products you can buy in the drugstore, especially if you suffer from tightness, flakiness under makeup, or aggravated breakouts combined with dry-feeling skin (all signs you're dehydrated, by the way, you're welcome.)

I purchase this product from local drugstores and the large jar costs between $10 and $20 depending on coupons and promotions.

La Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume B5

A post shared by @faceonomics on Nov 8, 2017 at 7:26pm PST

I already can tell 2018 will be the year of the cica-product. These products (usually featuring a mix of madeccasoside, madecassic acid, and zinc) have been common to French pharmacy lines like Avene, Bioderma, and La Roche Posay for many years, but Korean brands are catching on and releasing entire lines based around healing, soothing, anti-inflammatory ingredients.

La Roche Posay's version is my favorite of the ones I've tried. I find its blend of madecassic acid, zinc, and panthenol to be exceptionally soothing for anything from an allergic reaction to a painful breakout. Its sticky texture and brief white cast make it more suitable for nighttime used, but honestly I have used it under sunscreen in the morning and it was not the worst.

I always see people mistaking this for a moisturizer- it's not truly a moisturizing product (although it does contain emollient and hydrating ingredients.) Due to the inclusion of zinc, this product has a neutral to net-drying effect. That is to say, for most people, if they attempted to use this as a sole moisturizer, they would probably find themselves drying out within a week. Think of it as you would any drying product- a spot treatment or an exfoliating acid- and baby your skin with extra moisture when you use it. Nothing beats this cream for instant redness and burning/itching relief. I brought this with me on vacation just in case, and I got a horrible allergic reaction rash on my forehead the first morning I arrived- slapped on the Cicaplast when I returned to the hotel and it was gone within a few hours.

If you have a great deal of acne (similar to my Before picture above) and find your pimples are painful or itchy then the Cicaplast Baume will be very useful to you. When you are using something like tretinoin or benzoyl peroxide, and you can't stand the drying nature of additional acids or spot treatments, Cicaplast spread over your affected acne will soothe without overloading your skin.

I purchase this from Amazon Prime for $14.

Honorable Mentions/Farewells

This was the year that all my favorite shit was reformulated or discontinued, because the world is unfair. I want to rave about them but I don't want to make anybody feel sad for missing out so I will simply list them for posterity and as a final goodbye...

• Dr. Jart Ceramidin Liquid

• Dr. Jart Ceramidin Cream

• Innisfree It's Real Squeeze Mask Bija

• Benton Snail Bee Essence

All products mentioned in this post were purchased by me, with no affiliate discounts or gifting involved. Stay tuned for my 2017 MAKEUP Favorites Post, coming up very soon!

Current Skincare Routine

Left: Spring 2016 // Right: Autumn 2017

My skin has come a long way in the last couple of years. Part of that is my hormones stabilizing (and they could go haywire again) but I owe much of the improvements to my routine. I rarely post my routine on Instagram because it looks basically the same every single night/morning. Here are the hows and whys of my current morning and night routine- and what changes I've noticed in my skin since these routines have been in place!

Morning Skincare Routine

Watery antioxidant/prep steps for the morning

Keywords for my morning routine: Smooth, hydrate, plump, protect. 

I wear a full face of makeup every day, so I need my skincare to work in concert with my makeup. I need to look glowy but not greasy, and I want to stop any emergence of flakes or roughness that will mess up the finish of my base.

Stratia Velvet Cleansing Milk: This is halfway between a gel and a cream cleanser. It leaves no residue, but it is not a foaming, squeakifying cleanser. I don't think cleansing in the morning is a necessary step for everyone. When I was actively recovering from dehydration, I completely abstained from a morning cleanse. While this product is important for me to cleanse off the residue from the night before, I can get away with not cleansing some days.

Mizon Daily Clean AHA/BHA Toner: I use this post-cleanse because I rarely use true acids/actives in the morning. Sometimes I want a little smoothing action, and I find this does a gentle job exfoliating but also assists in plumping/hydrating my skin. I don't use this every morning- maybe twice a week.

NIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist: I haven't been shy about my feelings toward the Deciem umbrella of brands, but the SDSM is the one product they make that has become indispensable to me. It functions as an FTE (first treatment essence) in my routine, because it has a watery, fast-absorbing texture. I am allergic to niacinamide, an ingredient found in most FTEs, which promotes water retention in the skin. The SDSM substitutes well, as I noticed less irritation and water loss, as well as quicker healing time since I incorporated it.

Skin Biology 7% GHK-Cu Accelerant: This is a high-priced but not ridiculous (like NIOD) Copper Peptide serum. It is meant to be mixed into any skincare product, and treats my inflammation and irritation. I have noticed an overall calmer, less red appearance when I wake up in the morning since I began using this a few months ago.

Some light, absorbent hydration to start

Whamisa Green Tea Serum Toner: I find that my oily and dehydration-prone skin likes some sparing alcoholic skincare, as it soaks in fast and tends to plump and "rubberize" my skin to give me that chok-chok Korean ideal. This toner subtly brightens, soaks in fast, and hydrates my skin while soothing redness.

Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Liquid: Another quick-absorbing, multi-faceted hydrator that works excellently to combat and prevent dehydration and dullness.

Paula's Choice Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Dry Skin: Although I do not have dry skin, this toner ticks a lot of boxes for me as a morning step. It incorporates some fatty acids and oils which lend emollience and bounce to my skin without loading me up in grease. Soaks in more slowly and acts as a final step heavy hydrator on top of my watery steps.

Layers of emollient and occlusive ingredients to trap moisture

Klairs Supple Preparation Toner//CosRx Snail 96 Essence//Stratia Fortify: I do a lot of mixing in my day to day routine, because sometimes nobody makes a single perfect product. For daytime, I think that mixing is necessary to balance the exact level of moisture with the amount of residue you're comfortable with. This combination results in a lightly emollient soothing gel.

Vichy Aqualia Thermal Serum: A longtime favorite of mine, this product has become a daytime must-have for me. It traps the slightly oily and slippery early layers of my routine under a blanket of smooth, siliconey goodness. Acts as a hybrid primer and light moisturizer.

Mizon All in One Snail Repair Cream//Simple Hydrating Booster: On very hot, humid days, I'll skip this last step. However, in the cooler months it's more important. I apply this only on my chin/jawline where I'm most prone to dehydration. See this post for why and how I "zone" my face. This mixture of a thick essence with a very rich siliconey gel makes for a makeup-friendly but dehydration-busting layer of occlusivity.

Skin Aqua Sarafit Silky Essence SPF 50: A high SPF is completely non-negotiable for me. If you care at all about photoaging and hyperpigmentation, you cannot live without a daily SPF. I have been lucky enough to find multiple Japanese sunscreens that work excellently for my daily needs. This is a so-called "commuter" sunscreen- great for the type of sun exposure you'd get driving, taking the bus, and walking to lunch- not suited for outdoor sweating, swimming, or all-day high-UV-index exposure. The best sunscreen is one you will use so spend as much money and time as you need to find the perfect one for you.

Evening Skincare Routine

My full nighttime cleansing routine

Keywords for my evening routine: Cleanse, treat, moisturize, strengthen. 

I love a heavy face of moisturizer. As an oily-skinned gal, I think that isn't always the norm. But I find that my dehydration-prone skin and acneic tendencies make me more reliant on heavy occlusive moisturizers. And in the evening, when a greasy appearance is not a bad thing, I go all out. I also need to squeeze in my active ingredients, the ones which treat my acne and keep my skin in balance.

Lancome BiFacil Makeup Remover: Technically skincare, although I limit its use to the eye area- this is my holy grail waterproof makeup remover. I use this on a cotton pad when I'm wearing liner, mascara, or heavy eyeshadow. Otherwise, I skip to the next step.

Bioderma Sensibio Micellar Water: I was an oil-cleansing devotee for many years, but in the last 6 months I have found that my skin likes micellar water for a first cleanse. I notice a lot of people leave micellar water on without rinsing, which I find sensitizes and irritates the skin. I use this to remove the bulk of my makeup, then I follow with my second cleanser.

Stratia Velvet Cleansing Milk: My favorite gel/milk cleanser. I need to fully remove all residue of makeup, dirt, and sweat from the day, so I will massage this thoroughly after finishing my first cleanse, and then I rinse with warm water.

Mizon Daily Clean AHA/BHA Toner: Again, I don't use this every single night. But I use it if I'm particularly oily, broken-out, or my skin appears stressed (and not dry at all.) I never believed in acid "toners" that weren't real "actives" before this year, but since I added this I noticed increased clarity, improved skin texture, and better hydration.

[1-3 TIMES PER WEEK] DIY Honey Mask: I like to take advantage of the healing, anti-acne benefits of raw honey using this method. Most commercial "honey" products contain propolis, which I'm allergic to, and I find that using pure honey in a DIY mix is extremely effective for acne care and soothing. The benefits are most apparent if you wear this for at least an hour, so I keep this to a single use per week unless my skin is in extreme distress.

My library of actives

[4-5 TIMES PER WEEK] Acid Treatment: I have oily, congestion-prone skin and overactive hormones, so I do need to do regular acne treatment to keep my skin clear. However, in the grand scheme of things, I'd say I have a fairly light to moderate schedule of actives. I find that exfoliating every single night, no matter how gentle, isn't right for my skin at the moment. I switch between Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA, Alpha Skincare 10% Glycolic Treatment, and Melazepam (20% azelaic acid). I will occasionally double up and use two treatments on one night, but my usual schedule allows for 4-5 total active days, with at least 2 days of "rest" for my skin, when I purely focus on moisturizing.

Whamisa Green Tea Serum Toner

Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Liquid

Klairs Supple Preparation Toner//CosRx Snail 96 Essence//Stratia Fortify

My two HG masks

[1-3 TIMES PER WEEK] Whamisa Organic Flowers Hydrogel Mask OR SNP Bird Nest Aqua Ampoule Mask: I went down the usual Asian Beauty rabbit hole of buying dozens of varieties of sheet masks. Some people enjoy the variety of a large library of masks, but I've settled comfortably on just 2 as my regular treatments. The Whamisa variety is incredibly effective for fixing emerging breakouts, flaky irritation, and dullness. The SNP one is very moisturizing, and when worn on top of my usual essence/oil blend, allows for a super hydrating experience.

Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Cream OR Avene Soothing Moisture Mask: These two qualify as moderately heavy, hydrating night creams. They are slightly too rich to use in the morning, and they do an excellent job of soaking into my skin over the course of a few hours. I will apply this as my "sealing" step around 6 pm, and then I will leave my final step until bedtime.

Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer: This moisturizer contains less than 1% retinol, not enough to truly qualify as a "treatment" step, however it clarifies and smoothes my skin in a way that an inert moisturizer does not. I will usually only use this once or twice per week, on days I am not exfoliating. And if I'm particularly congested, taking a week off acids, or my barrier is compromised, I will use it more frequently.

Emu oil: Vegans, look away! Emu oil is made from liquified, purified fat from an emu bird. It's famously soothing, rarely causes reactions, and is intensely heavy and moisturizing. A sticky, inelegant oil, this makes no sense for morning use, but I love to mix a few drops into my nighttime moisturizer when my skin is extra thirsty. I find mixing a heavy oil into my night creams gives me more flexibility than having a ton of different creams for different moods.

Sleeping pack to end all sleeping packs

Cerave Healing Ointment//Cerave Moisturizing Cream: Since I posted about this DIY sleeping pack mix early in 2017, I have received so many messages and comments telling me how well it works for others' dehydrated and dry skin types! I find this to be the most effective anti-dehydration barrier out of all the creams and packs I've tried. A sleeping pack is essential if you feel plump when you fall asleep and wake up parched. When I'm sick or dead tired, I will simply do a cleanse and this last step, and I'll wake up looking like a normal human, not a zombie.

What I Do Not Use

Physical Exfoliants: My face responds well to acids. In my experience, my acne only worsens with scrubbing/manual exfoliation, so I stick to the chemicals.

Foaming Cleansers: While I appreciate the cleansing nature of a true gel-foam cleanser, I think that a gentle double cleanse has done more to repair my barrier and keep it in tip top shape while cleansing thoroughly.

Tretinoin: Currently my skin does not tolerate tretinoin, and I have found full resolution to my severe acne using the above exfoliants. I may begin a tretinoin or retinol treatment in a few years, but for now I am happy with sunscreen and antioxidants as preventative aging care.

"Oil-free" Products: Oil-free was a 90s-era-sham perpetrated on the skincare public! Oils are good- no, oils are great! I never avoid oil in my products, and I will often use a few extra drops of my favorite oil blends when my skin is unhappy.

Eye Cream: I actually have no issue with eye creams generally- I just don't need one right now. I bring my moisturizing products all over my eyelids, and I don't suffer from extreme dark circles, so they are an extra unwanted step for me.

And that sums up my routines! A total of 10 steps in the morning and 10-12 steps in the evening. For a complete skincare newbie, remember this particular routine was built over 2 years. A newcomer's routine will include maybe 2-3 products only. My particularly fussy skin demands a high degree of customization- I hope my routine helps you see the potential for great results at all price points and within your own stash.