tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80725015602909209512024-03-13T19:00:11.838-07:00FaceonomicsThe micro and the macro of beauty.Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-84082113502975053392019-09-23T13:49:00.001-07:002019-09-23T14:01:58.031-07:00So Long and Thanks for all the ClicksAlthough my posting schedule has been inconsistent for over a year, I haven't officially announced the end of Faceonomics as we know it until <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B2wfb-8nrvC/">today</a>. I've found my interest in beauty waning over the past two years or so, and with it my enthusiasm to discuss the subject in online spaces. Most of my readers first met me when I was a(n over-)active Reddit user, going by username <b>lgbtqbbq</b>, enjoyed my briefly prolific perfume review blog of the same name, and followed me to my <b>faceonomics </b>Instagram and blog pages, where I find myself today.<br />
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Reddit was, and remains today, an excellent forum to explore and learn more about makeup, skincare, and the beauty world in general, but in using it I became trapped in a loop of my own making. I'm a chronic people-pleaser, and I took some kind of pride in the identity I forged there as a diligent question-responder, concept-explainer, and newbie-herder. I did these things to pay back the favor for users who did the same when I was learning the ropes, and I also did it because it conferred some privileges and attention from fellow Reddit users. I became fairly dependent on the validation of other users, who would praise my attentiveness and willingness to respond to even the dumbest or meanest posts. At the time, I was going through a difficult period of my personal life, and I didn't have emotional energy to fix my real life. So Reddit became an arena where I could give and get the things I was lacking offline. If you met me during that time, I wasn't a fake version of myself, but I was definitely an unevolved, tired, and unfulfilled individual.</div>
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At the same time, I generated a lot of original content on Reddit, not just replies to people's requests for help, and I wanted to feel more of a sense of ownership over that content. Reddit's anonymous and crowded interface, though my profile was attached to my real name and image, swallowed up the writing and photos I spent many hours on. And I wanted a separate space to feel proud of and call my own. This is what prompted my partial move to Instagram and a blog, which I completed almost a year ago, as the issues I had with Reddit multiplied. I quit that platform entirely when I realized that my former identity as a people-pleaser had stuck, and I was getting dozens of private messages a week from complete strangers begging for extensive time and attention to fix their issues. I also found that as readership in my favorite subs grew, the communities pandered increasingly to the lowest common denominators in any niche hobby: purchasing and complaining. </div>
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I'm entering a period in my life where I want to have an expansive, inquisitive perspective. Beauty as a hobby encourages, or enables, a small world perspective that stunts and limits my curiosity. It's not just the rampant consumerism, or getting tired of Instagram trends. I simply have zero interest in talking beauty, whether product, technique, or artistry, at the moment. Two of my favorite beauty blogs: <a href="http://www.badoutfitgreatlipstick.com/2019/09/weve-had-great-run-thank-you.html">Bad Outfit Great Lipstick</a> and <a href="http://auxiliarybeauty.blogspot.com/2019/09/the-end-of-auxiliary-beauty.html">Auxiliary Beauty</a> have recently shuttered and referred to their beauty hobbies enabling a certain laziness in their creativity. I feel the same way. What was once a necessary outlet for things I couldn't otherwise process has become a weight around my neck, distracting me from fulfilling pursuits and exciting new challenges. I'll be focusing on writing for myself in the next year. I may publish some of it here, or you may see it somewhere else, who knows! I won't be publishing new content on this blog. I will close the comments and leave up all the existing posts.</div>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B2wfb-8nrvC/">Faceonomics</a> will continue on Instagram, though I now consider it entirely a personal account, and I don't intend to post any beauty junk, besides extemporaneous musings. Keep up with me there for food, cats, writing, and silly memes. Thank you so much for your readership and Internet friendship over the years!</div>
Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-4306057469037061892019-02-08T09:54:00.003-08:002019-02-08T13:37:34.300-08:00Skincare Experts: Trust and Critical Thinking<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
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The skincare hobbyist world is not what it was 10 years ago, or even 5 years ago. In the last few years, skincare as a hobby has exploded, and that explosion owes a lot to social media, the blogosphere, and forums like Reddit. Using these online tools, amateurs and experts alike can share knowledge and experiences with respect to skincare.<br />
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This has been a net-good for skincare hobbies, in my opinion. There are more products reviews for curious consumers, and more discussion and scientific analyses for wannabe skincare scholars. 15 years ago if you picked up a skincare item at the store, you would only have the opinion of a pushy salesperson to convince you to get it/not get it. Now you can google the product name and find dozens if not hundreds of detailed reviews and accounts of this product's efficacy.<br />
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There are hundreds of small-time bloggers, but there are also some prominent, next-level Skincare Gurus who, by virtue of their experience or their large following, enjoy a prominent expert status. In some cases, it's well-deserved and in others it's misplaced, but this post isn't about dissecting who is great and who sucks. Instead, I'm going to outline some best practices for judging opinions/reviews and placing them all in context in your index of skincare knowledge.<br />
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So you don't think I'm dissing general categories of people, I'll name some sources I personally pay attention to, and whose advice I find helpful, once taking into account the specific challenges I'll outline below. When writing this post, I particularly thought of <a href="https://www.carolinehirons.com/">Caroline Hirons</a> (former esthetician and longtime consultant for beauty brands), <a href="http://cosmeticscop.com/">Paula Begoun</a> (former beauty journalist and current skincare brand owner), <a href="https://drsambunting.com/blogs/sam-bunting">Sam Bunting</a> (cosmetic dermatologist, TV personality), <a href="https://fiftyshadesofsnail.com/">Jude Chao</a> (blogger and experienced skincare hobbyist), <a href="https://kindofstephen.com/">Stephen Ko</a> (cosmetic chemist), and <a href="https://www.lisaeldridge.com/">Lisa Eldridge</a> (makeup artist and expert, skincare enthusiast). And of course I'm including my fellow amateur skincare lovers on the <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/365inskincare/">Instagram</a> and <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/skincareaddiction">Reddit</a> communities. I want to put those examples in your brain at the outset of this, because my criticisms and comments extend to all categories of skincare nerds.<br />
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Background/History</h2>
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I love that I don't even have to leave my couch to read or hear the opinions of estheticians, doctors, and cosmetic chemists alike. The Internet allows people with a variety of industry backgrounds to chime in on a number of subjects. What would have taken hours and thousands of dollars for consultations/discussions is now available online from a variety of sources.There are also hundreds of genuinely well-meaning and cautious amateurs with no industry training who dispense genuinely good advice in a few corners of the Internet.<br />
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I think that only good things can come from exposure to such a vast sample of viewpoints and backgrounds. I don't prioritize one background over another. To me, an esthetician who worked for 30 years with a variety of clients likely has reliable and useful knowledge that you can't get from a dermatologist. And a brand owner's opinion should always be taken with a grain of salt, but someone who designs and sells skincare absolutely has information and suggestions that can assist you in your skincare explorations.<br />
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It only makes sense to balance your roster of skincare gurus. If you mainly follow amateur hobbyists on Instagram, try adding a few dermatologists or high-profile estheticians to your list. You will find the more opinions and recommendations you are exposed to, the more well-developed your perspective on skincare will be. Just because you saw a dermatologist and she fixed your major skin problems with a few recommendations, it doesn't mean that you won't learn useful things from other professionals (or laymen.)<br />
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The biases and knowledge specialties will vary depending on industry and background. A facialist likely has a different viewpoint or orientation toward acid peels compared to an amateur, and a dermatologist probably has strong feelings about retinoids that a brand owner for a company that produces mainly antioxidant-based skincare will not agree with. Personally, I love to listen to everyone, because there are kernels of truth and a good philosophy to be found in every category.<br />
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Among amateurs, the product and ingredient biases tend to be more split based on skin type. Because most of their knowledge comes from pure personal experience with their own faces, amateurs/non-professionals (like me!) will have recommendations based on what works for <i>them</i>. And that can be a good thing if you share skin frustrations, but it's always good to read opinions from people who have worked with a variety of skin types and issues. This is analogous to the difference in a YouTube Makeup Guru and a real world Makeup Artist. The former is amazing at taking care of her own face, she knows the ins and outs of exactly what colors to use and where to put them. But she would likely have no clue what to do if plonked down in front of 10 models and told to make them up. The type of knowledge gained from experience with other people's faces is not <i>better</i> in all cases, but it is different and necessary. I truly don't prioritize one over the other. What you hear from a facialist who has worked with dry to oily skin, 15 year olds and 70 year olds, will not necessarily be as helpful in some cases compared to what you get from one very articulate amateur who is the same age and skin type as you. In some cases you will get a lot out of the amateur's advice, because she will have tried all the options suited to your skintype, and will have some relatable insights for your exact skin. By listening to laymen <i>and </i>to professionals, you will gain more breadth and depth of knowledge than just sticking to one category.<br />
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I will say if you are a true skincare beginner, it is better to follow a regimen or philosophy based around an "expert." It's too difficult to know, as a newbie, who you are listening to. I've seen very earnest, serious-sounding routines given from one amateur to another, and neither was aware that it was horribly destructive and counterproductive (think: Clean & Clear scrub followed by a rubbing alcohol wipe, use aloe vera if feeling dry.) If you're brand-new to skincare, there <i>are </i>smart amateurs out there, but you won't be able to pick them out as easily. Stick to the basic posts and simple advice from experts where possible.<br />
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Time Spent in Industry/Hobby</h2>
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A minor corollary to the above point is to consider the guru's time spent engaged in the line of work or hobby. This is not a direct measure of quality, but it does help you weed out some people who may not know what they are talking about. This is not a hard-and-fast rule, because there are people who spend dozens of years in an industry and they are not holistically well-informed or good at communicating that opinion. But in general, make sure to heed the advice of seasoned, competent, and cautious advisers over the advice you get from a super-excitable and confident newbie.<br />
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There's that old adage about the man who knows he knows nothing being wise. May sound a bit trite, but it's true. Listen to people who tend to tack on "your mileage may vary" or "proceed cautiously" when dispensing their own advice. They are aware that everyone has individual reactions and skin issues, and they do not want you to be disappointed or emotional when things inevitably go off-script. Someone who confidently assures you that <i>you'll definitely love my routine, it's so easy, all I use is lemon juice Nivea scrub SPF 15! </i>is probably not thinking about different skin types and variance in product tastes.<br />
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Free Products</h2>
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While this is a touchy subject in general, I believe conflicts of interest for beauty gurus/influencers cannot be ignored, and so I do take it into account when a skincare guru receives free products, either as gifts or in exchange for reviews. Read the link above for a more detailed breakdown of my thoughts on the subject of conflicts of interest in the social media marketing age.<br />
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Even the most honest, trustworthy, and virtuous gurus will be influenced in some way when they receive free product. If a guru receives thousands of dollars worth of product every year, for free, their recommendations and daily routine will be skewed because of that. Even if they remain outspokenly conscientious of budget-friendliness, if you look at the products they use on a daily basis, they will likely prefer/use more expensive ones. And that makes sense. When dealing with a pool of products which are all formulated well and effectively, it's pretty easy to choose the one with sexier packaging, a nicer scent, and a slightly more luxurious texture.<br />
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The results of the Heritage Rosewater Mist ($8) and the Omorovicza Queen of Hungary Mist ($90) are likely comparable, as the main constituents of both are glycerin and water, but if I was given the latter for free, you bet your ass I'd be spritzing it and showing off the lovely frosted-glass bottle as much as possible. And it wouldn't be fake enthusiasm. I would genuinely be excited to receive such a lovely and luxurious item, and I would 100% enjoy it.<br />
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The question is- for these gurus who receive those types of products on the daily- how do we, as followers, figure out what products are in the "beautiful but would never buy if I was a pleb" category, and which are worth the expense? That's not a question I have a concrete answer to. I think if skincare is a hobby and not purely a perfunctory grooming task, it inevitably involves some element of luxury. You can choose a $90 mist and not be "wrong," but you have to always prioritize your own budget and look at a spectrum of reviews for luxury products. Do not buy a product that is raved about by your Favorite Skincare Guru Ever without checking for reviews from people who purchased it themselves. Wait and see if your Favorite Guru repurchases or continues to use it after a few months- that will show you a bit more information than just a preliminary rave.<br />
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Preferences/Strong Opinions</h2>
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Something which definitely concerns me about the culture of worshiping skincare gurus is that there are people who take every word from a single person's mouth as gospel. Following one smart expert might not lead you astray, but what if you follow 20 "trusted" sources? What happens when Paula of Paula's Choice loves mineral oil and Caroline Hirons hates it? Where do you fall on the issue, and does it have to do with your own preferences, or just which woman you trust more/discovered earlier in your journey?<br />
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For me this is an issue everyone has to hash out for themselves, and it really will influence the way you consume skincare media and advice. There are certain truths in the field of skincare science, but the vast majority of "rules" are guidelines. You can cherry-pick evidence to support both sides of a black and white issue. It doesn't mean either person is wrong, nor does it mean both people are 100% right. The perspective of the person making a claim matters a great deal, and it's your job as a media consumer to account for their perspective, even if the guru believes him/herself to be making an irrefutable claim.<br />
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Again with the example of Caroline Hirons/Paula Begoun on the issue of mineral oil- I have seen nasty remarks directed at both women, as if either is being willfully deceitful and spreading bad information. These two women are actually friends, and agree on a great deal of skincare "truths." They simply have a different perspective on the issue. For one, I've seen the Hirons say that mineral oil is a lazy ingredient in expensive skincare as the MSRP would allow for more expensive ingredients and better "value" to the consumer. But of course, there is value in simple, non-irritating skincare that prevents water loss (which mineral oil does.) I've also seen her claim that mineral oil is "junk" for the skin, which is a bit more of an extreme position, and I do believe this comes from her desire for the average person to get good bang for the buck when purchasing skincare. Paula Begoun believes, as many others do, that the evidence points to mineral oil being a good thing in most cases, and that shying away from the ingredient can be detrimental for your overall routine.<br />
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In this instance, you could find a perfectly good regimen for your skin listening to only one of those women, even though they are diametrically opposed on this issue. But if you close your ears to other experts, and only listen to one as your Own Personal Skincare Jesus, you are missing out on the beauty in the noise. There is such a wide-ranging diversity of opinions in the skincare world- and if you are grounded in science and you don't make an impulse purchase based on one beautiful review, you are not going to come to much harm just listening to what others have to say.<br />
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I would say I'm <i>less </i>on the hippie-dippie side of things. Probably growing up around Berkeley engendered in me suspicions toward anything that smacks of ignorant do-gooders. But I still like to read interviews with brands that follow a green/hippie philosophy. There's good knowledge and wisdom there, even if it doesn't apply to me personally at that time. I can better recommend mineral oil-free alternatives to someone who refuses to use it (<i>even though I love it</i>) if I read a moisturizer round-up from a mineral oil-hating blogger. I'm not vegan, but I have friends who are who ask for vegan recommendations. You can decide what to believe, in all cases, but you can never go wrong hearing more opinions.<br />
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Science-Washing</h2>
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After dunking on hippies, I'll venture to the other end of extremes and mention that, especially in the last 5 years, there's been a lot of science-washing in the skincare hobby world. After decades of hiding cosmetic formulary behind a veil of glamour and "ah, you wouldn't understand it" brand esotericism, finally consumers have better access to information about ingredients and formulas. But this exposure to more information does not necessarily create a better understanding or deeper knowledge for the average person. In fact, there are some people who, because of their own lack of scientific background, pick and choose the "sciencey" experts who deliver information in the cutest blurb/post and blindly parrot the information without thinking critically about the subject.</div>
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Did I just tell you to listen to experts when in doubt, but also don't listen too hard to experts? I contain multitudes, yada yada. Although many of the more science-minded Internet skincare personalities like Stephen Ko or <a href="https://labmuffin.com/">Lab Muffin</a> are intelligent and well-reasoned, it doesn't mean that you can read their posts and regurgitate the information in order to understand skincare better. One of the most hazardous trends I've noticed is the frantic perusal of INCI lists (ingredient lists) and the dogged insistence that if you recognize ingredients and their position in those lists, you can predict how a skincare product will behave. Blogs like <a href="https://chemistconfessions.com/blog/">Chemist Confessions</a> have certainly contributed to this issue, though I think we humans will always find a way to take a nuanced issue and make it black and white, thereby nullifying the value in the endeavor.</div>
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You can read an ingredients list and scoff at the low position of a botanical extract in the INCI list, because, armed with your cursory reading of someone else's summary of the necessary percentage of astragalus extract for anti-inflammatory activity, you <i>know </i>that that extract is in there for looks, not for utility. But that would be a gross misunderstanding of how skincare ingredients are produced (there is no industry-standard rule for concentrations of botanical extracts) and also the way the formulation process works. The <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/04/why-i-love-and-hate-ordinary.html">main reason</a> I hated The Ordinary skincare line when it launched was that it followed that reverse-reasoning of a skincare mob: X% of Y ingredient is GOOD so our formula contains ONLY X% of Y ingredient and no other USELESS garbage. I have noticed a lot of self-appointed INCI detectives hyperfocus on the active ingredients and dismiss the unsexy things like solvents, emollients, emulsifiers, and basic humectants with a wave of their hand. In reality, the majority of a user's experience with a skincare product, as well as its efficacy (how well it absorbs, how effectively it penetrates, how well it layers with the user's makeup and other skincare) is dependent on these unsexy "fillers." The best skincare is the skincare you'll continue to use. The best skincare is the skincare that, day in and day out, makes a noticeable improvement in the quality and feel of your skin. There's an annoyingly vast gray area to individual skin preferences, but it comprises the majority of the skincare experience. </div>
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When I've been asked how I "know" a skincare product is working, my answer is usually that I don't ever know, for sure. I have been known to use a "Holy Grail" product for a year, then take it out of my routine just to check and make sure it's doing something. Sometimes I'll add it back, and sometimes I'll leave it out. Because neither our bodies nor our environments have static compositions, sometimes what our skin "liked" last October doesn't carry over to what it likes this May...or this coming October. Hormonal changes, ways of eating, stress, age, weather, location, and many more factors are lumped into this mystery question of "what does my skin like?" And no cosmetic chemist can write a single post helping you answer that question. It's up to you to experiment and be patient with building a routine that works <i>in reality</i>, not <i>in theory</i>. </div>
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Concluding Thoughts</h2>
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This is a complex situation that can't be reduced to "X guru good Y guru bad, thanks for coming to my TedTalk." I think that the industry and hobbyist communities are filled with both the well-meaning and the treacherous, the informed and the ignorant. Most people have a blend of all of these qualities. Every single one of us has blind spots and prejudices, and as a consumer it is your responsibility to take information from a wide variety of sources to balance out and eliminate those blind spots as much as possible. As always, my recommendation is to build <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-hierarchy-of-skincare-needs.html">a skincare routine slowly</a>, one product at a time, while observing how your skin reacts to individual items. Feel free to hold all the advice of skincare experts and hobbyists in your mind at the same time, but remember that your experience will be a large factor in deciding what stays on your shelf and what gets tossed in the trash. Remember that it's all too easy to misinterpret or extrapolate wild conclusions from nuggets of truth, and most skincare rules are more like maybe-sometimes guidelines.</div>
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Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-30725168829998276962019-01-22T11:04:00.001-08:002019-01-22T11:04:26.923-08:00Avoiding Cheap Impulse BuysMany beauty addicts got their start in the drugstore. My own interest in beauty was first piqued while tagging along with my mom to the pharmacy as a middle-schooler. I fell in love with the transformative promises of skincare, haircare, and makeup, and the drugstore is where I sadly picked up some of my less responsible spending habits.<br />
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I decided to <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/11/low-buymindful-consumption-plan-for-2018.html">completely forgo</a> drugstore makeup in 2018 (and I managed to keep that resolution!) however that doesn't preclude me from being tempted by cheap stuff- whether online makeup brands, drugstore skincare, or deeply discounted higher-end products.<br />
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On the face of it, accumulating lots of cheap items doesn't present as problematic as splurging on expensive ones. However, if you're like me, you can justify an expensive haul made up of cheap items, simply because the volume of items acquired seems so impressive.<br />
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I can sensibly talk myself out of a single $45 purchase at Sephora, and turn around and spend $60 at Target because my "haul" is multiple products. In theory, getting more bang for your buck sounds great- but in most cases, the bang you get isn't all that amazing. My return/discard rate for drugstore purchases is much higher than the rate for high end purchases.<br />
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<b>Pretend the potential purchase is the same price as comparable items in your collection. </b>I've been guilty of buying a $6 highlighter when I own multiple $30 highlighters. And why? I guess to satisfy this itchy feeling that buying a cheap highlighter would be like getting away with murder. But the fact is- if I wasn't willing to invest similar amounts of money in a drugstore item as the expensive version, <i>and </i>I already own an expensive version, the low price tag shouldn't be tempting at all.<br />
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<b>Keep a piggy bank. </b>For larger purchases, you might not want to take hundreds of bucks out of your bank account and stash them around the house. But for cheap stuff, go ahead and force yourself to go to the bank, withdraw $20, put it in a piggy bank, and see if you really want to go take that money and spend it at CVS. Many people struggle with money not being tactile and palpable, and by sidestepping the seductive credit card convenience, you will reinforce to yourself that you <i>are </i>spending real dollars that could be spent on better things.<br />
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<b>Consolidate drugstore visits. </b>As much as possible, don't make multiple trips to the drugstore in a week. If you need to pick up a prescription, and you're not quite out of toothpaste yet, buy it when you're getting your meds, otherwise you're more likely to come in next week and be tempted by makeup all over again. When I go to the drugstore and only buy one necessity, I have this maddening urge to make the trip "worth it" by buying more stuff. I'm way less likely to browse lipsticks if I have my hands full of backup floss, a case of seltzer, and a new bottle of toilet cleaner.<br />
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<b>Make a few ground rules. </b>Maybe you need to avoid the drugstore altogether. Maybe you don't allow yourself to peruse a few tempting brands that constantly disappoint. Or maybe you have to restrict yourself to domestic drugstore makeup only- no eBay orders or international swaps for you! Just like a diet, there are many ways to approach overindulgence. There's no one size fits all solution, but you absolutely do need to give yourself some restrictions. Write a list, and post it somewhere you can see it. If you just have the rules floating in your head, it's easier to bend and break them.<br />
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<b>Keep all your receipts. </b>I know, it's a pain in the ass to keep the 5 foot long CVS receipts, but you have to do it. I'm personally more likely to return a $40 foundation to Sephora if I hate it, but I easily let 5 bottles of $8-$12 foundation from the drugstore pile up until I get sick of looking at them, then throw them away. I waste more money and storage space on drugstore makeup I'm too lazy to return, because the price per item is lower. Because most drugstores don't have a sophisticated beauty rewards program, unlike Sephora or Ulta you will <i>always </i>need to bring your receipt along. But at least in the USA you can absolutely return used makeup if you hate it, and you should take full advantage of the <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/01/why-i-dont-feel-guilty-using-return_27.html">return policies</a> in place without any guilt. I keep a cardboard box next to my vanity, and every time I make a new beauty purchase, I throw in the receipt or packing slip, along with the outer packaging if there is any. That way there's no hunting for scraps of paper when I find I need to return an item.<br />
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<br />Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-51561703972460900892018-11-29T14:46:00.001-08:002018-11-29T14:55:31.606-08:00Free or Cheap Ways to Fix Winter SkinI love the transition from hot weather to cold, but my skin decidedly does not. Whether I'm living in frigid Scotland or temperate California, my skin protests the changing seasons by erupting in acne (often caused by <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/how-i-fixed-my-dehydrated-skin.html">dehydration</a>) and exacerbated by indoor heating and dryness.<br />
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As long as I can remember, every winter that I've been aware of my own skim, I've gone into a moisturizer-buying frenzy when the temperatures dip. Black Friday and holiday sales/new releases only encourage that bad habit. I'm never more gripped by unsubstantiated and overblown marketing messaging than I am when my face is flaking off.<br />
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I've noticed a lot of my followers and mutuals on Instagram falling over themselves to bolster their routines with winter's arrival, and they often do so by splurging on new supposedly heavier-duty creams, high-tech treatments, and plsuh-sounding masks. But I've found, for the most part, that's not the most economical or efficient way to save your face. Here are the things that make the most difference for me, in the shortest amount of time, with the least financial outlay:<br />
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Get a humidifier </h3>
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Shit, get two humidifiers. Put one on your desk at work, and put one on your nightstand for when you sleep. My face starts cracking around my jawline like clockwork the 3rd week of October (coincides with my birthday, thanks for the gift, Universe, you REALLY shouldn't have) and usually I'm too lazy to set up the humidifier until a few weeks later. But when I do set it up, I'm always astounded at the difference I feel in my skin. It's not instantaneous, but within 3 days, I notice increased comfort throughout the day, better makeup weartime, and less irritation and sensitivity when using acids or masks. I live in California- we do not have harsh weather. But most people crank up the heat in their cars, offices, and homes when the temperature starts to drop below their comfort zone (in California, that's under 68 degrees) and indoor heating wrecks even the most resilient of moisture barriers. Don't cry about humidifiers being expensive when I saw your Instagram stories justifying your desperate Drunk Elephant moisturizer purchases! A $60 humidifier will last multiple winters and pay for itself.<br />
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Ointment up, girl </h3>
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Vaseline, Aquaphor, Cerave Healing Ointment, Biafine...there are so many options out there, and they all cost peanuts. During summer you might have the luxury of falling asleep with a whisper of gel-cream, or a light layer of hydrating toner on your face, but in the winter you need a heavy duty arsenal. I use my ointments as sleeping mask, spot "treatments" for dry spots even under makeup, and most importantly, I use them to bolster the strength of my existing every day face creams. By mixing a blob of Cerave Cream (nowhere near potent enough to carry my face through a winter's night) with a blob of Aquaphor, I can make my wimpy day moisturizer into a powerhouse night mask, without shelling out for three "sexy" new night creams that end up disappointing me or breaking me out. If you're not hardcore and you don't enjoy having a literal full face of Vaseline when you fall asleep, you're wrong, but you can do my <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/stretching-your-stash-mixing-skincare.html">sleeping mask trick</a> as a final step.<br />
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Oil is your friend </h3>
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Seriously, if you're not already a facial oil convert, you're missing out. It's [current year] and you have no excuse. There's some debate as to whether facial oils work better when applied BEFORE creams or after. Especially during winter, I say <i>porque no los dos</i>, and I oil-sandwich my night cream and let it all soak in while I slumber. The trick with facial oils is to apply them to not-fully-dry skin (usually I'll press on a layer of toner or gel essence, wait for it to soak in 50-75%, then go in with my oil) and also to press into the skin sparingly. You can always go back and add a few drops, but my skin prefers less oil, layered, rather than a whole puddle of oil slapped on at once. Although my skin loves many lightweight oils like jojoba, green tea seed, and hemp oil in the summer, in the winter I focus on heavier oils like mineral, lanolin, and pomegranate oil. Pure oils are remarkably cheap, even "precious" ones like pomegranate oil. Once I've determined what my skin likes by buying small samples from Garden of Wisdom, I search for bulk suppliers to get the best $/oz. I buy $28 for a <i>pound</i> of pomegranate seed oil. Trust me when I say the investment in oils is worth it, and minimal when compared to purchasing ready made products. My favorite trick is to mix a bottle of 50/50 light and heavy oil (my current go-to combo is green tea seed + lanolin oil) and keep a bottle on my bathroom counter to mix into my routine anywhere I want. It's cheaper than store-bought oils, so you can be really generous and frequent with application. The thing I love most about pure oils is how versatile they are in my routine. I've mixed a few drops of facial oil with my toner as a first step when my skin was raw and dehydrated, but I needed my face to be less greasy for makeup prep. You can apply oil at any point in your routine, mixed or unmixed, and it will do something slightly different. Experiment with "timing" and ratios of oil:other skincare and you'll be amazed at how cheaply you can stretch your routine.<br />
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Use less, not more, skincare </h3>
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With this I'm specifically side-eyeing your (<i>I'm sure</i>) highly reasonable stack of acids, exfoliators, masks, and treatments. During the winter, your skin will tolerate less. That's just the truth. You're sick more often, you're exposed to harsh outdoor weather and indoor climate control, you're probably eating like crap and sleeping odd hours due to your circadian rhythms getting dicked by the lack of sunlight...give yourself a break. Give your skin a break. This doesn't mean you can't treat acne or aging concerns for half the year, but if your skin is rebelling, and you are throwing more products at it to make it behave, take a beat and think about removing a few steps before you add more. I specifically back way off of BHA usage in the winter- most weeks using it only once instead of 3-4 times like my summer schedule. I also completely swear off all clay masks from October to March, even though I adore them. I tend to avoid all physical exfoliation in the winter. I lean heavily on diluted tea tree oil and azelaic acid as those are the two least-drying but still-effective acne-fighters in my routine. Even glycolic acid, which my normally hardy skin loves, needs to be used with caution because it can cause tightness and itchiness on skin sensitized by winter. The best part about this tip (toots own horn discreetly) is you're encouraged to spend less not more. You do not need to buy One Magical Thing, Darling to fix your face. You need to listen to your own needs and be patient, even if that's less sexy and satisfying than blowing your skincare budget on 5 new cool-sounding moisturizers.<br />
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Turn the thermostat down </h3>
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Hi Hungry, I'm Dad! Seriously, this may not be an option depending on where you live or who you share a living space with...but if you can at all avoid running the heat, do it. Not only will it save you money, it will also save your poor dehydrated skin. I run hot, I'll admit, but I bundle up in cozy pajamas and wool socks when I'm bumming around the house in wintertime. I never turn the heat on unless I have an overnight guest who runs cold, and because of where I live, that works for me. Of course this is not a cold turkey directive- if you live somewhere with a more punishing climate, you may need to run the heat. But think about reducing your usage whenever possible. Bundle up more, put an extra quilt on the bed, even use a heating pad or blanket in place of running the forced-air heater. Your skin will thank you.<br />
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Wash your hands <i>way </i>more</h3>
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And keep an extra tube of your favorite cheap face cream as a hand cream. I will admit I tend to wash my hands less in the winter even though I touch my face more. Either from feeling cold, or being annoyed at extra breakouts or dryness, my hands definitely wander to my chin and cheeks more than they should. And clean hands will mitigate the damage to some degree. In addition, washing hands a crapton is the best way to avoid catching cold. Personally, I get sick every single time there's "something going around," but the winter that my mom did chemo, I was so terrified of infecting her with a bug that I washed my hands upwards of 10 times a day. And I didn't get sick that whole year.<br />
I avoid washing my hands in winter for a few reasons- one is that the sensation of cold water is obviously bothersome. Solution: run the hot water if you can. Just do it. The other reason I avoid it is because my already-dry hands feel drier the more I wash. I solve this by keeping a tube of cheapo face cream by my keyboard. This way if I touch my face I don't leave greasy, breakout-inducing hand cream swatches everywhere. Face cream is sufficient for daytime hand dryness and won't provoke more breakouts if I do touch my face.<br />
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Wash your clothing and bedding more frequently </h3>
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In the summer, I tend to wear low necklines and use next to no bedding. In the winter, I'm bundled up in scarves, turtlenecks, and you better believe I have my duvet pulled up around my face when I fall asleep. All of these cozy, cuddly items gather dirt and grossness and should be treated as breakout hazards. So be sure to switch out your sweaters, coats, and bedding whenever possible, and spot clean if you can't run them through the machine.<br />
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Break up with "always never" rules </h3>
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Maybe you think your skin tolerates alcohol all the time- I've been known to insist that. Maybe you know for a fact that you can't use heavy sleeping packs. Changes beget more change. Changes in temperature and habits during winter might affect your skin in unknown ways. Don't be scared to experiment and push the limits a little with how heavy your routine is at night, how much and what products you use, etc. Your skin <i>in summer</i> is not the same as your skin <i>in winter</i> and I know it's scary to play by different rules, but it's better to face facts than to insist your alternate reality is the truth.<br />
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Be kind to yourself</h3>
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I'm a filthy capitalist shill, not a corporate shill. Companies love to lump your bothersome winter problems into a cutesy self-care package that conveniently stuffs into a stocking for the holidays. The truth is, you have more important things to spend your cash on than 5 new moisturizers. Some common sense and holistic self-care (holistic here meaning with regard to your whole person and routine, not <i>just </i>skincare) will do more for your wellness this winter than an advent calendar of travel-sized hydrating lies.Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-75618073502727247332018-05-17T11:41:00.000-07:002018-05-17T13:23:37.980-07:00How to Apply Eyeshadow to the Lower Lashline<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Defining my lower lashline is a technique I struggled with for a long time. From what I've been hearing- many of you share in that struggle. Because it was such a hard concept for me to understand, I think I developed a pretty good set of guidelines/common mistakes in my own journey. People do not enough, not too much<br />
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Build a Strong Foundation</h2>
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The first step is one that so many people skip- and in my opinion it really shows. You <i>must </i>prime and set your primer <i>well. </i>And I do mean well- most people neglect primer or perfunctorily pat on a tiny amount. Generously prime and set <i>thoroughly</i> with a full layer of translucent powder or skintone shadow. If you don't apply primer, the soft and crepey/lined skin under your lashline will have a snowball's chance in hell of "grabbing" onto shadow and holding it in place. When people tell me they look sick or dead with lower lashline shadow, they usually are <i>not </i>taking the time to complete this step.<br />
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I use maybe 25% less primer than I use on the top lid, to cover the lower lashline, but it's by no means a tiny amount. I like to dot it all along the lower lashline with a Q tip and use my pinky finger to blend out. Primer should cover the area where eyeshadow will go <i>and then some</i> so don't be afraid to bring it down further than you think. If you powder your undereyes/foundation/concealer, prime <i>before </i>your powder step. I find applying eye primer on top of powder can lead to clumping.<br />
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Setting your eye primer is also a non negotiable step- eye primer itself can range from ultra creamy to a stiff waxy consistency, but if you go directly on "damp" primer with colored powder, you're going to have a streaky bad time. Setting with either translucent face powder or with a skintone-color shadow will not hinder the grippiness of your base, but it will allow for a smooth blending surface for any colors you apply on top.<br />
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Use transition shades</h2>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Imagine this, but shaped like the bottom of an eye not a perfect semicircle<br />
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Are transition shades "high maintenance?" Sure, but a lot of makeup techniques are high maintenance. The trick to good makeup is to make the end result <i>appear </i>effortless, but this requires far more work than meets the eye.<br />
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Transition shades are essential if, like me, you do not have a very 3D eye shape. Whether your eyes are very round, hooded, or flat, you might find yourself craving extra dimension and dynamism. Transition shades can help you with that by carving out more bone structure to make your eye makeup look defined, intentional, and interesting. Tangentially, when you are reading the makeup routines of models and celebrities remember that they have been selected as the top 1% of genetically gifted naturally beautiful and <i>interesting </i>looking people. What they can do with one color on their exceptionally sculpted and defined eyes...might take a bit more time and product for a normie.<br />
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This goes for the bottom lashline too. I always use at least 3 separate tones for my lower lashline eyeshadow. This enables me to create a softly blended, smoky appearance with very little work or actual blending. This is a simple technique but hard to put into words. Hopefully the following graphic expresses what I'm getting at:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Apply lighter colors first, and add darker colors<br />
overlapping but not covering all of the last shade</td></tr>
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Whatever you do, do <i>not</i> "stack" colors on top of each other- this will turn into one smudged line of a single color, awkward- use colors so that separate "bands of color" appear consecutively- you can layer, but make sure each layer doesn't obscure the last one completely. Always go from light to dark- if you try to apply the darkest shadow first and then blend out with a softer color, you are going to experience more muddiness and smudging. Pros can do the "blend out a dark line" well because- they're pros. Amateurs should use techniques and methods that create less work, not more. And smudging out a dark line that you've placed on bare skin is hard mode, make no mistake.<br />
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Remember that there is no single "holy grail" transition shade- it's dependent both on your skin tone and on the specific eye look you are doing. When I do a smoky green look, I use a pale nude, a bright yellow, a mustard yellow, and an acid green as my transition shades before I start going in with darker green. When I do a blue look, I'll use white, a pale gray, a darker gray, a bright blue...and then go in with navy. If in doubt, go monochrome. Do not slap on a brown crease before you do a colorful lid...just <i>because</i>. Think in terms of a color wheel and work within color families to begin. Once your understanding of color and shade has deepened, you can start playing with contrasts.<br />
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Apply More Than You Think</h2>
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Most beauty mistakes/ruts are a result of making erroneous assumptions. People tell me every day "I can't wear lower lashline shadow, it doesn't work on me," or "I can't wear red lipstick ever," and I can tell not only from their pictures that it's untrue, but also because the more definitive/certain a statement is, the likelier it's unfounded. A huge mistake I was making for years is that I didn't apply <i>enough </i>eyeshadow to create definition. *Dwight Schrute voice* What? <i>More </i>shadow to appear <i>less </i>raccoony? Yes, it's true. If you wimp out and apply a thin line of eyeshadow, you might as well not even put anything there. Halfhearted attempts, borne out of a fear of adding too much depth or shadow, will always look wishy washy, unflattering, and unintentional.</div>
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Applying your colors lightest to darkest not only gives a beautiful smoky gradient, it also will unlock more confidence. It's <i>really intimidating </i>to go in on a bare eye with a big ol ring of black shadow. It's not that intimidating to apply a large halo of flesh tone, then go in with a slightly smaller ring of medium brown, etc etc. This is not only a good technique to create a speific effect, it will actually give you better muscle memory and understanding of just how low you can go (hint: it's always lower than you think.) Sometimes people will send me their makeup photos on IG or reddit and request constructive criticism- I have <i>never </i>seen someone who brings their shadow too <i>low</i> or has too much drama on a lower lashline. I <i>always </i>see a tentative little crisp line directly under the lashes, and it's an easy fix...just use way more shadow than you feel confident using. </div>
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Here are some examples of old looks (left) where I hadn't quite mastered the lower lashline...side by side with looks that show a deeper understanding of shadow technique (right.) Please note the old looks <i>appear </i>less dramatic and that is due to the quantity of shadow on lower lashline. They were not <i>intentionally </i>soft/low contrast, the intention was to create a smoky effect, and I failed. The current examples represent what I intended to do all along. There is still a way to do soft makeup, intentionally, and some examples can be found later in the post.</div>
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As Above, So Below</h2>
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The trend of a colorful lower lashline (POP of color) is one of those microtrends that I see as being less successful and/or interesting. It works when a great MUA does it, and sometimes it works on a normie like us. Maybe it's just my age showing, but it makes me think of my early high school years. My rule is to echo whatever pattern/placement from your upper lid on the lower lashline. If you're doing a halo eye (dark outer corner, bright middle portion) then the same pattern should be mirrored on your lower lashline. If you're doing a gradient smoky eye (light on the inside, gradually darkening as you go out) then same thing applies.<br />
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Here are some examples illustrating the principle- if your overall look is soft, you do not always need a smoky lower lashline! Keep things similar in hue and in density/drama. I also broke the rule I explained above in my first "sunset" look with a slightly different color on the lower lashline but I still used familiar transition shades, and kept the finish and saturation level similar. Play around to see what works with your own features. The point is not that you must have a rigidly perfection reflection of your upper lid, but that you should tie in "themes" like colors, finish, placement, to maintain continuity.<br />
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Use Multiple Tools</h2>
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Use multiple tools, and smaller brushes in general- if you try to use one single brush to apply all your lower lashline tones, you'll end up with a muddy ring, regardless of how many colors you use. I absolutely suggest some of the <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2018/04/favorite-eye-brushes.html">brushes I discuss here</a>, especially the final three. Large blending brushes have no place on the undereye- they can drag color too low, or else blend too thoroughly and destroy your careful placements.<br />
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FINISH HIM</h2>
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If you've followed this process and still feel like it looks a bit wishy washy or not defined enough- you may choose to stamp a <i>very </i>thin line of waterproof pencil or gel liner along the lower lashline. Because you should already have a near-black/smoky shade in that placement as well, the liner will add weight without looking unblended (do not start blending this- you'll muddy everything up.) Waterproof is pretty essential for the lower lashline I've found- on the upper lid, you can get away with a normal product, but the lower lid is prone to smudging, bleeding, and fading. If you're going to use liner at all, make sure it can go the distance.<br />
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As for the waterline, you can leave it bare, apply a nude shade, or with a smoky look, apply a black liner. It's up to you. I've included examples above of all 3. You'll need to experiment with various looks to see what each requires. A filled-in waterline can add a touch of crisp refinement and weight, or it can throw off a delicate look.<br />
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The final step is to absolutely load up with lower lashline mascara- although this can look spidery or clunky with no eyeshadow, it adds a beautiful drama and final smoky touch to a lower lashline. I'm always wearing an unholy amount of mascara when I'm complimented on my lower lashes- they're nothing special to begin with, but in this situation you can be liberal with application without an unseemly effect.<br />
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Closing Thoughts</h2>
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Most of my readers enjoy ridiculously long-winded advice (YA CAME TO THE RIGHT PLACE) but if you don't, here's a TL;DR:<br />
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<ol>
<li>Use a lot of primer</li>
<li>Use at least 3 colors in distinct bands</li>
<li>You're not applying enough eyeshadow</li>
<li>Mirror top lid with bottom lid</li>
<li>Use small brushes</li>
<li>Don't forget lashes and possibly liner if the look is heavy enough</li>
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Do all eyeshadow looks require lower lashline work? No. But many do. It's up to you to find the right balance with a particular look- and even if you think you don't need lower lashline shadow, you can always add some at the end of the day to see how your face <i>would have </i>looked had you chosen to add it. You should grow your inner catalog of reliable looks, so you gain an instinct for which placements are appropriate in what scenarios! </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0GLgEiq-T1UtdGLa_GoFsSKtWISriV3StFTej_B-6gXQCB-tEhCuprdOYRINAv_5SqXSTv6OjKGsK9HZ6a8ZlCEPhyphenhyphenPa2D9T5c4txWpsgpNE_EuG8vLG5Mho7gm9HNw00bYxgrTtwYBP1/s1600/DSC07139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0GLgEiq-T1UtdGLa_GoFsSKtWISriV3StFTej_B-6gXQCB-tEhCuprdOYRINAv_5SqXSTv6OjKGsK9HZ6a8ZlCEPhyphenhyphenPa2D9T5c4txWpsgpNE_EuG8vLG5Mho7gm9HNw00bYxgrTtwYBP1/s400/DSC07139.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A look that's deliberately missing lower lashline shadow</td></tr>
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Happy eyeshadowing- if you're not already following me on Instagram, you can <a href="https://www.instagram.com/faceonomics/">find me @faceonomics!</a> Let me know if there are any other technique/general principle posts you'd like to see.<span id="goog_568830294"></span></div>
Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-77995456947095494932018-04-19T21:45:00.002-07:002018-04-19T21:52:01.850-07:00How to Learn Makeup from YouTube GurusI started watching YouTube makeup videos when the community was still a fragile baby bird. It was mostly awkward teenagers using their webcams to record ultra-grainy, unedited videos, sharing their genuine excitement in a brand-new medium. That time is past now, and I do sometimes miss the homegrown authenticity, but of course there are many more recent videos I enjoy for their crisp images and fantastic editing.<br />
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I learned a great deal of what I know about makeup from simply watching YouTube tutorials. But today's saturated YouTube beauty field is very confusing for new makeup lovers who don't know where to start.<br />
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How to Watch YouTube Videos as a Beginner</h2>
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Just watching some videos is not going to magically make you better at makeup. Just like sitting through a semester of archaeology lectures won't make you Indiana Jones. You gotta get your hands dirty, practice, and actually walk the walk. Most people watch beauty YouTube videos for entertainment. But if your goal right now is to get better at makeup, here's how.</div>
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<li><b>Watch beauty </b><i><b>experts</b> </i>not just any pretty person with an eye-catching thumbnails. Your goal is to consume excellent material, because as a beginner, it can be hard to unlearn bad habits acquired from not so talented "gurus." There are various experts at different levels of professional development- but make sure not to stray too far into amateur pretty-19-year-old-lifestyle-vlogger territory. Beauty enthusiasts sharing their thoughts as a consumer are a valuable resource when you're more experienced in makeup- but for now they will be a distraction.</li>
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<li><b>Stay away from review videos</b>, haul videos, and favorites videos (for now!) These are fun to watch, but they are counterproductive to your learning journey. You don't yet know your own product tastes or even what all these products are meant for, so don't make the mistake of being seduced into hauling a bunch of stuff you'll never use. Trust me- in a few months, you will look back at your early wishlist and wonder what the heck you were thinking.</li>
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<li><b>Follow along </b>with tutorials. When I started doing this, I saw my skills skyrocket much faster than I would have expected. Simply watching someone practice a motion while you follow along with your own tools and products is so helpful, it completely outranks practicing from your fuzzy memory of a tutorial you watched last night. I think most people don't do this- and its importance cannot be overstated. You can pause and rewind, so don't feel limited by the guru's speed or editing.</li>
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<li><b>Watch with an eye for categories </b>not products. If you end up watching 5 tutorials and thinking each time <i>wow I really need a matte brown pencil for the looks I want to accomplish</i>, then now is the time to shop for a matte brown pencil. Do not decide you need Tarte Shape Tape just because one pretty lady used it, and it looked really nice on her. Most YT gurus make money from promoting product- period- so you cannot rely on what they use as gospel for what you should buy. As a beginner, you <i>will</i> acquire a not-so-perfect makeup stash and that is how you learn what you love. Buy as little as you possibly can, and be open to the idea that you will outgrow products as your tastes and skillset grow.</li>
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<li><b>Repetition is key</b>. Practice from the same video or few videos for weeks at a time. Do not try a smoky eye on Monday, abandon it for the rest of the week, then try again next Monday and cry that your skills haven't evolved. You will build muscle memory and your own understanding of your face by doing the same techniques many days in a row. For now, you don't get to be Crazy Makeup Lady who wears a different look every day. You get to practice the same basic look for as many days in a row, from the same tutorials, as it takes to nail it down. Then you can use that acquired knowledge for the next look you tackle.</li>
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List of YouTubers to Trust</h2>
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Okay, you're just taking one woman's opinion on this. But you gotta start somewhere! The whole point is to start with a basic, limited list, and as your tastes and skills develop, you don't have to take anybody's advice anymore- you can find what you love <i>all on your own</i>! This is a mix of professionals and amateurs- both have something to offer, but for the most part, seasoned professionals who have experience doing makeup on people other than themselves are your best bet.</div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFghPtzFcmyDiID1ASMA4Dg">Lisa Eldridge</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/HarryMakesItUp">Harriet Hadfield</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/monikablunder">Monika Blunder</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBGhZzQcNqM&list=PLXM9S1wesncurDvAOX8p7JjuiY7nFaW2k">Mary Greenwell</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/ctilburymakeup">Charlotte Tilbury</a> (this is a brand channel, so ignore the products as best you can, just follow along with techniques, as hers are sound)</div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/sharonmakeupartist">Sharon Farrell</a></div>
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<span id="goog_1794141360"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_1794141361"></span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/pixiwoo">Pixiwoo</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-_4GqC-yLY1xtTHhwY0hA">Pony</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/karimamckimmie">Karima McKimmie</a> (an amateur who is extremely good at communicating techniques and concepts)</div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/Jaclynhill1">Jaclyn Hill</a><br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/BatALashBeauty/videos">Samantha Ravndahl</a> (although she's a generic vlogger now and skews more beauty guru than expert, she is another semi-amateur/semi-professional who is excellent at communicating technique)</div>
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My Favorite "Beginner Friendly" Videos</h2>
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How to Apply Lipstick by Rebecca Shores</h2>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/wYzg8HgPCHI/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wYzg8HgPCHI?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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This is a pretty high-effort tutorial, considering lipstick can just be swiped on in 20 sec. But if you are new to lipcolor, struggling with application fundamentals, or trying to fix asymmetry, this will give you a flawless finish. And you can always tweak the techniques to suit your needs.</div>
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Natural Shimmery Summer Glow by Lisa Eldridge</h2>
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Healthy, glowy, sunkissed- practically everyone wants to master this look.<br />
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In Depth Bridal Tutorial</h2>
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You don't need to be planning a wedding to want a special-occasion, flawless, "glamorous natural" look in your pocket. Jaclyn Hill has a big personality, but it's her fundamental, careful technique and solid laymen's explanations that make her an excellent source.</div>
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Brows by Lisa Eldridge</h2>
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There is no such thing as timeless- well- <i>really </i>natural makeup is probably timeless. But Lisa always balances trend and technique- she favors a brow look fixed more in personal flattery- not fixed to a specific dated trend (skinny 90s brows, bushy 80s brows, crisp 2010s brows etc.) For <i>most </i>people, brows are not an accent to be played with- they are more of a foundation piece. You want them to look basically the same most days, and you want them to be the best shape and color for your face. You might play with 10 different shadow placements and color schemes in a week, but it's likely your brow experimentation won't be a focus.</div>
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Mary Greenwell's Natural Makeup Masterclass</h2>
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Again with natural makeup- don't roll your eyes at me! Great natural makeup skills underpin every single successful experimental/funky makeup style. If you don't know the rules of making makeup "pretty" you can never figure out the best ways to break those rules and create interesting makeup. Mary Greenwell has a no-nonsense style which relies a lot on hands, multi use products, and natural earth tones. Like all of the gurus I discussed, her videos are a wealth of information and you can't go wrong following along to any of her tutorials.<br />
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Sam Ravndahl's Halo Eye</h2>
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A technique that is both intriguing and challenging to beginners, the halo eye is a high-impact eye looks that actually takes relatively little skill. However, it's a confusing placement and concept when you haven't tried it before- Sam's videos are excellent for shadow placement as she's very specific in her descriptions, and she zooms all the way in to show where and how she applies each color shadow.</div>
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Concluding Thoughts</h2>
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Most people don't take advantage of the wondrous resource that is Beauty YouTube. They approach it as entertainment, and that's perfectly ok unless you're trying to improve your skills. If you are unhappy with your makeup skills, approach the project like a challenging class or subject in school. Use a variety of trusted resources, study and practice every day, and trust the process. You will not become an expert in a few weeks, but within a few months you can grow your knowledge a great deal. </div>
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Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-12063259366936249552018-04-13T09:21:00.003-07:002018-04-13T09:21:39.652-07:00Favorite Eye Brushes<div style="text-align: center;">
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Today I'll discuss my absolute favorite eyeshadow brushes- the versatile and fabulous tools that enable me to create a wide range of shadow looks and effects. In my opinion, <i>great </i>tools make a huge difference for a beginner, not a complete newbie. If you have never applied eyeshadow- you do not need great brushes. If you have been working with eyeshadow for a few months, you grasp the basics, but your results aren't really satisfying, you will likely see a huge improvement to your technique when you upgrade to good brushes.</div>
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If I gave myself a letter grade, I went from a C- to a B- within just two or three eyeshadow applications when I upgraded from basic brushes to really good ones. And that quick boost in technique, from tools alone, bolstered my confidence and allowed me to jump up to a solid B+ to A- <i>fairly</i> quickly, a jump that I think would have taken <i>much </i>longer if I'd stuck with my drugstore brushes.</div>
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Why Are Your Faves Mostly Animal Hair?</h2>
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For the looks I like to create, synthetic brushes typically do not provide the right amount of bend and sway. Synthetic bristles, as a matter of course, are stiffer and more bouncy in movement. Less floppy and yielding. This is fine for precision, but not so good for buffing soft clouds of color and applying with a whisper soft touch. Vegans or people who otherwise object to animal hair use in cosmetics will likely not find this guide useful. I do use synthetic small brushes- for specific and crisp placement, but not in general for blending.<br />
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Although squirrel hair is my favorite for face products, I find goat hair has the exact right balance for gripping and depositing powder eyeshadows. It doesn't take away from a powder's pigmentation, but it also doesn't throw a bunch of color down and lead to chunky opaque edges.</div>
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Another reason I favor the handmade Japanese animal hair brushes (aka fude brushes) is that those lines offer a wider range of sizes for brush heads. Most American and European brushes are, in my opinion, way too big to be useful to someone with my eye shape. Japanese lines like Hakuhodo and Chikuhodo offer fluffy but small brushes (a category that's sadly underdeveloped in the West) which enable soft and precise blending- the best of both worlds! There are <i>many </i>brands I won't be covering today- the two Japanese brands mentioned are among the most affordable fude brands available on the market, but you could easily spend $200 on a single shadow brush from a more expensive line. Check out the <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Fude/">Reddit Fude sub</a> for more discussion and information.</div>
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Precision vs. Flexibility</h2>
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Having said my piece with regards to animal hair brushes, I do find synthetics useful for specific purposes. I mainly use synthetic brushes when it comes to flat, pointed, or compact/stiff brush shapes. Whenever I want to press or pat a patch of color without worrying about the edges or blending, I reach for synthetic bristles. The texture and stiffness allow for better color placement, all at once.<br />
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When you are choosing to create softer veils of color- say in the crease or when smoking out your lashline, you want the opposite of precision. I reach for longer bristles, natural fiber, and larger shapes whenever I want to blend anything.<br />
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These descriptions are not really weighted by value- simply they are what I've come to expect from a certain size/shape/texture! As a general rule, the shorter the bristles, the more "blocky" and precise an effect it gives. On the flipside, longer bristles usually provide more sway and splay action, which lends well to a blown-out effect.<br />
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My Favorites</h2>
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Now for the meat of this post- my favorite brushes and their specific usages! I will start at the widest "base" and move into smaller and more precise shapes and movements. I've provided photos of the brushes next to a standard MAC lipstick, the most ubiquitous beauty object I could think for size comparison. I've also attempted to show the main placements these brushes work for. My apologies as I tried to make gifs to show movement/placement but I could not find a combination of filming and editing and compression that yielded anything but tragic gifs, so until I troubleshoot that, pics will have to do.<br />
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Hakuhodo J5522</h3>
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The first brush we have to discuss is this huge, fluffy goat hair pointed dome brush. It is relatively stiff, but it's pointed shape and large size make it an ideal choice for swishing a VERY sheer and diffused veil of color in your crease area. If you have large, dynamic eyes and tend to not emphasize your crease a lot, you might not enjoy the effect of this brush. For me, it's indispensable when faking the high but multidimensional crease I love to do on myself.<br />
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I use windshield wiper motions with the J5522- it's too big to benefit from "swirling" as it will take over the eye area. It does best for laying down sheer tones in large swaths. I don't recommend using it with a shadow that's more than 2-3 shades deeper than your skintone.</div>
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Hakuhodo J5523</h3>
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The second brush is a classic- or rather it's a near clone of a Western classic we all know and love- the MAC 217. This brush post would be half Hakuhodo, half MAC, were it not for MAC's recent overhaul of its entire brush line. I personally use and love decade-old goat hair MAC brushes made in France, but I can't get behind their new synthetics line. Since any MAC recommendations would be for discontinued brushes, I won't include them!</div>
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The Hakuhodo J5523 is slightly smaller and slightly more compact compared to the classic 217. It's a full oval shape, not flat but with a slightly pinched ferrule that gives you a lot of versatility. You can use this brush in several ways- it lays down a patch of lid color quickly, with an automatically diffused edge. You can accomplish this with short combination pat-swipe motions Or you can use it to apply a crease shade, working in small circular buffing motions and building color as desired.<br />
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If you could only afford <i>one </i>brush, make it this one. You can literally do a whole soft eye look using only the J5523- no you can't line your eyes with it. But you can do a lot.</div>
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Hakuhodo J5529</h3>
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This brush completely changed my shadow game- it's the shape and size you can't find in any Western drugstore line, and not in most Western luxury brands either. This is like your classic domed blender brush, shrunk to 1/4 of the size. While you might use a large domed brush for your crease (if you haven't tried the awesomeness of a tapered dome like the one discussed above...) you would use the J5529 for more "precise blending." </div>
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This is for depositing accent colors in your outer V <i>and </i>for blending those same colors. The small size is ideal for more detailed, gradient shadow looks as a larger brush would swallow the eye area and turn all the shadows into one color. I also use this on a daily basis to buff and blend smoky lower lashlines- a technique I've heard is challenging for many of you. Trust me when I say the effect eluded me too- until I got the J5529.<br />
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This brush is so compact that you can use it fairly lavishly in wide swiping motions- its small head size means it won't disrupt or muddy even if you use it in larger areas. I drag this brush over linear placements like my lower lashline, in a back and forth motion. I also use it in dotting motions to deposit small concentrated patches, and in tight circular motions to blend smaller precise areas like the outer V.</div>
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Zoeva Luxe Smoky Shader 234</h3>
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A natural/synthetic blend brush that I love for packing on lid shades. This is an exact dupe for the MAC 239 (old) and for the Hakuhodo J004G, but I find the 3 truly identical, so I'm going with the cheapest! I hate all the blending brushes I own from Zoeva (and I own them all) because the synthetic blend causes them to be too stiff. They don't have enough yield to really create a halo of softness- but with a shorter brush like this, this is when you stop having to worry so much about bristle quality, and you can find much cheaper items as long as the shape works.<br />
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If you are a relative newbie to eyeshadows and you find yourself constantly foiling shadows or using Fix+ to "intensify" your shadows, you may be overlooking a really simple fact: your flat shadow brush sucks at gripping and depositing color! A lot of flat shadow brushes found in American lines are <i>too </i>flat and they don't have enough er, girth, to properly dig into a shadow and pick up color. Slightly fuller and fluffier bristles on a short, flat brush head will also do a better job of laying down color vs a tight flat shape.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEYwnu0ULSNGmZecO-JEhyphenhyphenLTVmAfbaqyy6DDYcl7UvbTXoGYbpCIm62NRFAjmUQE_TpwF5YT-8hV6Zcj2NfOmqXbdeHOkVFqznvsGa9JYnH0nVmMsCr7CI7penW6uZ7F_hnPARdesLHy6F/s1600/zoeva1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEYwnu0ULSNGmZecO-JEhyphenhyphenLTVmAfbaqyy6DDYcl7UvbTXoGYbpCIm62NRFAjmUQE_TpwF5YT-8hV6Zcj2NfOmqXbdeHOkVFqznvsGa9JYnH0nVmMsCr7CI7penW6uZ7F_hnPARdesLHy6F/s320/zoeva1.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEird3KNKhOFUFcYtS0kNhLUfKOddB6NUSjE92QAMj_rSoJ9kBv2Y3fpXGuh9nh0KTHMu68BPgr7AwYZhbPcO7eAXTgPljRfm-0Y1u_dbcYsOIy8N0ABKV1Dakf9OmQiOXJuoHqIN23ExPuY/s1600/zoeva2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEird3KNKhOFUFcYtS0kNhLUfKOddB6NUSjE92QAMj_rSoJ9kBv2Y3fpXGuh9nh0KTHMu68BPgr7AwYZhbPcO7eAXTgPljRfm-0Y1u_dbcYsOIy8N0ABKV1Dakf9OmQiOXJuoHqIN23ExPuY/s320/zoeva2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I use this brush especially for pressing color into the center of a halo eye or for the lid of a smokey eye...or just for allover shimmer! A very versatile brush that's necessary in any beginner's bag. If you really could only afford two brushes, it would be the Zoeva 234 and the Hakuhodo J5523 I'd recommend first.</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
Beauty Junkees Pro Pencil Brush</h3>
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I guess I shouldn't have spent so much time disclaiming my snobbishness, because this is another cheap brush that really performs at the level of a more expensive one. I believe this is pony hair or goat hair- it's found on Amazon Prime and isn't a prestige brand, so I'm not 100% sure of the composition.</div>
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A good pencil brush has spring, softness, and precision all in harmony. This one from Beauty Junkees does the trick and doesn't scratch, but it still holds up without splaying its bristles. When you start narrowing the size of brushes, it means you are looking to create more dramatic dimension- deeper, smaller shadows and brighter, tighter highlights. At this point, we stop loving the softly bendy bristles of our earlier crease brushes, and want to focus on getting a stiffer brush head that still doesn't feel rough.</div>
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I use this brush every single day- in fact I own two- one for light shadows, one for darker ones. I use the former to apply and blend my inner corner/browbone highlight, to dot concentrated bright spots into a halo eye, and for blending out harsh edges on very graphic looks. The latter is used for adding definition to the corners of a halo eye and for smoking out both upper and lower lashlines.<br />
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Due to the pencil brush's stiffness, it works best for dotting motions and very short strokes. It will not hold up to movements that cover a large surface area. You can certainly apply a color in a line across your crease or lashline, but don't expect to get a refined blend- this blends better than applying color with a Q tip, but it is a placement brush not a finisher. For that you'd want to reach for the J5529 to smooth out and buff the edges.<br />
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One note is that I own 4 of these and 3 are almost identical, but the 4th is <i>very </i>flexible and flippy. There's variability/inconsistency but to be fair that exists on the handmade/fude side as well sometimes. </div>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
EcoTools Eye Enhancing Duo #2 Brush, Angled Side</h3>
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Confusingly, this is just 1/4 of a single product- the EcoTools Eye Enhancing Duo is my favorite drugstore brush "set" in existence. But I want to specifically discuss the angled liner brush head found on one of the dual ended brushes. It is the closest thing to EcoTool's long-discontinued angle liner brush- a brush that perfectly married precision and fullness. Most angled liner brushes are only good for two things- brows and gel liner. They are too stiff and too narrow/tight to ever properly deposit a smoky, smudgy, sexy line of shadow. The EcoTools version is just thick enough to soften while it lays down an opaque line. It's absolutely fine for use with a gel liner or brow product too- but I would highly suggest it if you struggle with your "defined lines" looking skippy or too crisp.<br />
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Because of the less skinny edge, this can be worked back and forth in a blending motion, but it will only go so far. I mainly use it in a "stamping" motion to press color in a precise line/at an angle when I need to create a very tightly lined eye or a graphic shape. I usually already laid out a base of softer smudginess, and adding a stamped line on top gives a gradually intensifying effect without having to move your brush around that much!<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Brush Care</h2>
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I'm often asked about my brush care routine. And here is my philosophy: I do <i>not</i> baby my fude brushes, as I consider them tools. For me, they are a means to an end, not collectibles or useful just by virtue of existing. To that end, I wash them as often as I need to to prevent muddied colors, and I recognize as a result they will have shorter lifetimes. Some fude collectors will be able to enjoy the same brush shape and fiber texture from their brushes in 30 years. I fully expect mine to be dead within 10 years, and I will repurchase at that time. You will hear from many Japanese brush lovers that a squirrel brush should only be washed once every few months- to me that would interfere with my ability to use the tool as I want to. I wash it as often as needed to clear old color and prevent breakouts.</div>
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If you want to wear a pair of shoes for 20 years, rotate it out, give it breaks, don't wear the pair in harsh weather. If you simply want to wear a pair of shoes everyday, well, ignore that, and buy a new pair when you wear yours out. I want to be able to use my brushes daily, which is why I approach brush care the way I do. Different philosophies for different lifestyles and preferences.<br />
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None of the brushes I use are so expensive that the though of repurchasing in a few years bothers me. I want to be able to switch frequently between colors (bronzey looks one day, blue the next, soft yellow the next) without buying endless duplicate brushes or risking a muddy unintentional color mix. All the brushes I discussed in today's post are less than $30 each, and getting 5-10 years' use from a $30 item is reasonable to me. I am being conservative- I have 12 year old goat hair brushes that still perform the same as they did when I got them. But just to satisfy my control freak- I accept that my everyday use brushes may shed or go frizzy within the decade.<br />
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I treat my brush hairs like I do the hair on my head. I shampoo with a mild, low-lather shampoo, I squeeze to release excess water, press with a towel, then air dry as long as it takes. I wash my face brushes once a week, and my eye brushes once every two weeks (all of them) and clean individual ones as necessary. Brush cleansers are plentiful and varied nowadays, but I prefer the price and convenience of a gentle shampoo for humans (my favorite is the Tea Tree Tingle from Trader Joe's.) You can also use a gentle low lather face wash, but shampoo is more economical.Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-39273632111590886472018-01-05T20:13:00.002-08:002018-01-06T17:49:38.664-08:002017 Favorites: MakeupIf 2016 was my year of perfecting makeup techniques, 2017 was the year I really indulged in the products that elevated those techniques. I don't have a tiny collection, and I don't have a huge one. I am pleased to say I took great joy in the products I own this year, without having excess items that didn't get much love.<br />
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Some of the products I'll be talking about were purchased prior to 2017- they're not all new or new-to-me but they represent what I enjoyed most this year!<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Stellar Limitless Foundation</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BZRLlFxlh25/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-09-20T15:49:22+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Sep 20, 2017 at 8:49am PDT</time></div>
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I can't believe I've only been using this product since June of 2017. It kind of feels like it's always been there for me. In any case, since I purchased this product, I have not found its equal within or without my existing collection. I usually wear a full face of makeup with powder, highlighter, and blush, but in the photo above I was only using the Stellar foundation for my base. This is a light-medium buildable to medium-full coverage foundation with a skinlike but not overly dewy finish. It's extremely longwearing on my oily skin when set with a powder, but I have spoken to many drier-skinned women who find it hydrating/wearable for them as well. </div>
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To me this is a masterfully made formula, because of its versatility on different skin types, and the fact that it is such a "beautifying" foundation. Some foundation is just like paint- it covers your face in a uniform color, but it needs to be prodded, tweaked, spritzed, and buffed to actually improve your overall face. The Stellar Limitless Foundation is something that can be swiped on in a hurry, and it immediately makes you look like a better version of yourself. I can compare it in that way to the MAC Face & Body, although it is much less dewy, and has considerably more coverage. I never hear "Your foundation looks great" when I wear this, I hear "Wow your skin looks amazing!"</div>
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In addition to that rare beautifying quality that makes it so unique, the color range of Stellar's foundations is phenomenal for someone like me (neutral-warm olive) who doesn't like to use traditional yellow-toned foundation straight up. Their latest shade offering is S01, which is what I wear, and it's between an NC20 and NC25 in MAC terms, but it has a swampy yellow-green undertone, unlike the schoolbus yellow of some other companies' warm tones. This line in general caters toward the medium toned part of the spectrum, paying careful attention to the way real skintones work in real life, not just using a sliding scale and distributing 12 shades across a Pantone color gradient.</div>
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The last thing that I have to rave about is that the Stellar foundation is seamlessly skin-like. I usually dot my foundation on using fingers and then go back in to blend with a sponge, but if I get distracted in between those steps, I've actually <i>forgotten to blend </i>the Stellar because it meshes with my skin so beautifully. This is not just a colormatch issue, this happens because the texture is so fine and flattering on the surface of the skin. I find that it looks beautiful up-close in person but even nicer in photos, if possible. All around a truly <i>stellar </i>(heh heh) addition to the foundation market in 2017.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Tom Ford Eye Duo in Naked Bronze</h2>
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File this product under "worth the hype, and then some." Tom Ford makes several shades of this cream/powder duo, but this is the standout in my opinion. I purchased this because smoky bronze is my favorite flattering eyeshadow color. I am pretty faithful to Urban Decay Smog for a powder shadow look, but I wanted one cream to use as a single wash in case I was in a hurry or traveling.</div>
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I have tried and hated a lot of cream shadows. MAC Paint Pots, Maybelline Color Tattoos, Kiko Shadow Sticks- to me they all had one defect in common- they do not blend out seamlessly at the edges. For some people with very sculptural, dynamic eye shapes, this is not a problem. I personally have a plain-Jane eye area. It needs carving and smoking and swooping and sculpting to look <i>really good </i>and most cream shadows don't allow for that.</div>
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Tom Ford Naked Bronze however- it contains multitudes. It is a sheer neutral-warm satin brown when applied lightly, and it builds to a lustrous medium dirty bronze, and then finally to a metallic chocolate bronze with an even heavier hand. Because it can be blended out to create a soft, seamless crease, it doesn't require fussing or partner products. It just looks <i>good</i>. And I haven't even mentioned the pressed glitter half yet- it can be left off for a smokier look or popped on top for a burst of glittery sheen. This truly is the one eye look that I can't mess up, and the fact that it can be adjusted and worn at about 6 different levels of drama/formality makes it unique among other "single wash" products.<br />
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If you are cooler than me, try the single Cream Color shade Platinum. If you are significantly paler, try the Golden Peach duo.</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Addiction Blushes</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Ba9kAcvljZg/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-11-01T18:00:48+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Nov 1, 2017 at 11:00am PDT</time></div>
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Although my love affair with Surratt blushes continues, my wandering eyes landed on blushes made by the Japanese brand Addiction this year. My friend with impeccable blush taste compared the texture of these blushes to Surratt, so when I visited Japan in October I took the opportunity to pick some up. Since I got home, I've regretted only buying 2 shades.<br />
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These are powder blushes that have a feel in between a traditional soft powder and a powder-gelée formula (like the Clinique Cheek Pops.) The color range is quite extensive with more than 20 available shades, but I think where they shine is their selection of nude blushes and more saturated scary-in-the-pan shades.<br />
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The two shades I first purchased are Revenge and Amazing. The former looks like a bright red in the pan, similar to NARS Exhibit A, and the second is a fuchsia-bubblegum on first glance. However, both apply so seamlessly and sheerly I have to wonder what kind of deal with the devil the formulators at Addiction have done to get this <i>so right</i>. When applying bright/intense blush I <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/12/how-i-apply-blush-modified-igari-style.html">typically layer</a> the most intense shade over a nude, soft one to diffuse the edges and aid blending. However, the Addiction blushes are so fine and sheer that they can be whacked on carelessly without looking streaky or patchy.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Stila Magnificent Metals Glitter & Glow Eyeshadows</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BX3C4X7FtP0/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-08-16T15:41:43+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Aug 16, 2017 at 8:41am PDT</time></div>
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The Stila liquid glitter shadows were my gateway drug to all things glitter. In 2017, I went from owning almost nothing that could qualify even as high-shimmer to a collection that's heavily weighted in the fabulous direction. Partly through coaching by my glitter-obsessed friends, and partly just from my own experimentation, I learned how to wear glitter in a "casual" way. Although glitter is a shorthand for New Years Eve and nights out, I mostly wear glitter in the daytime to my office.</div>
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The Stila shadows made the transition from a satin/pearl dimension to the glitter life totally seamless. My favorite shades from the line are the ones with no base tone, as they make versatile toppers for <i>any </i>eye look. The Gold Goddess shade is a neutral, not-too-yellow gold, and Diamond Dust is an ultra-reflective silver with some holographic sparkle. I don't find too much extra utility in the shades with tinted bases, because I prefer to do 90% of my eye look with powders, and add sparkle as a final step. However I have seen many people wear the colored-base Stila shadows beautifully. My personal favorite ways to wear them are as a smattering on the inner eye corner, all along my lower lashline, and as the center "pop" in a halo eye.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
These shadows make glitter application foolproof, as they require no special primer, they do not create excessive fallout, and the formula distributes glitter very evenly with no effort. I particularly enjoy that the pieces of glitter are quite flat, large, and irregular, which gives a broken-glass type effect. I find it to be more editorial and interesting compared to what I call "pinprick" glitter which often looks more like remnants of a kindergarten craft project.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
MAC Next to Nothing Pressed Powder</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bc7szdGFqjk/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-12-20T17:41:59+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Dec 20, 2017 at 9:41am PST</time></div>
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One of my greatest makeup challenges is achieving a dewy, glowy base while keeping my makeup in place for 10+ hours. It often feels like you have to pick one or the other as an oily-skinned person, but this year I tried the brand-new MAC Next to Nothing powder and all my satin-dew dreams came true. I was a devotee of the famous Laura Mercier translucent loose powder, but I always had a few complaints. It was just a hair too matte and quite inconvenient for travel. The MAC powder improves upon both of those issues- it has a beautiful "strong" setting power but it only <i>barely </i>mattifies the skin/foundation. It's travel-friendly and comes pressed in the standard MAC compact.<br />
<br />
I use this powder in the shade Light Plus. It does not offer any coverage, but it is not a true translucent powder. It took me 6 months to fully use up a single compact, and I gladly repurchased it when I realized that all the other powders in my stash were seriously lacking. I prefer it to the sexier-looking Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Powder, which is ever so slightly too-mattifying, and on the flipside actually has <i>worse </i>oil control compared to the MAC.</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Clinique Chubby Stick in Whole Lotta Honey</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BdDsARvlgDa/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-12-23T20:08:55+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Dec 23, 2017 at 12:08pm PST</time></div>
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When I first started wearing lipstick, it was <i>always </i>fully opaque, satin or matte formulas. I scoffed at the idea of sheer lipsticks, partly because I recalled trying crappy tinted balms in the past, and also because I doubted the impact and definition a sheer formula could offer. I actually received Whole Lotta Honey as a gift from a friend in 2016, but I <i>really </i>started rocking it often in this past calendar year. It's a semi-glossy sheer formula housed in a twist-up crayon format, and its magic lies in the exact balance of depth and pigmentation. Most sheer lipsticks are too weak to make a difference, or too pigmented to be considered low-key. I have crooked lip lines, which means most lipsticks require application with a lip brush to look decent. I can literally scribble Whole Lotta Honey on without a mirror and it looks good, no, <i>great.</i></div>
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This swatches a muted orangey-brown but once applied to my lips, it manifests as a peachy nude. My natural lip tone is a pale, dead-looking cool pink, which doesn't harmonize well with the warmth in the rest of my features. Whole Lotta Honey goes with any subtle look, and most warm-toned dramatic looks. It even works well with some cooler eye looks, depending on what blush I pair with the look. It also works well to modify many of my other lipsticks. Layered over a too-stark or too-dry color, it can add plumpness and warmth where it's missing. Most of my lip products stay in my bookshelf where I can pick through them based on what my mood is that day, but Whole Lotta Honey literally lives on my vanity. I use it so often, alone or layered with other colors, that it doesn't make sense to ever put it away!<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
NARS Audrey</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BcFlvCalVF8/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-11-29T17:21:13+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Nov 29, 2017 at 9:21am PST</time></div>
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On the heels of a rave for a super-subtle lipstick, let me rave a bit about one of my favorite dramatic lipsticks of the year. NARS Audrey is a satin-finish berry that has some magical undertone I cannot find a perfect dupe for. I actually avoided buying this lipstick for over a year because it seemed crazy to pay NARS Audacious prices for a <i>berry </i>shade, a lipstick category that is saturated at drugstore and high-end price points. But in this case, I ended up wasting more money on failed dupes than I would have if I'd just shelled out for Audrey from the beginning!</div>
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Audrey is uniquely flattering for my muted, yellowy skin. It's neither too bright nor too muted. Berry shades with too much brown tend to make my face look dull or dragged-down. Berry shades that lean pink turn neon on me, and that's just not the look I'm aiming for every day. Audrey is strangely muted without being brown or blackened. It is clearly cool (berry) and not a plain red lipstick. It brightens my face without screaming for attention. It just <i>works</i>. The lesson I learned from Audrey is that everyone can wear <i>some </i>version of a color category. You just have to be adventurous and willing to kiss a lot of lipstick frogs.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Conclusions</h2>
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2017 was a great year for makeup, personally, and for the market as a whole. I learned a lot about my own face and preferences, and the fast-paced release schedule in 2017 meant that companies were constantly one-upping each other and improving their offerings. It can be dizzying to face the enormous variety on the cosmetic market today, but remember that you as the consumer can only benefit from increased competition. A competitive market economy propels technology and innovation forward, while putting a downward pressure on retail prices. The increased availability of different products should excite you, as it will allow for a collection more finely tuned to your exact preferences.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
Don't ever feel that you as an individual must own <i>all the exciting new things</i>. Each of us can only take so much, financially and mentally. Stay focused on finding things that suit your face and your budget, and that bring you joy. I love to stay on top of new releases, but I also don't regard each new makeup collection as an opportunity to buy. If you ever feel stressed over the number of new releases, just return to what you enjoy about makeup- and focus on your own goals. Part of the reason I wrote this post is it makes me happy to use a single product to death. The more products I own, the less I can use my favorites. That's something I try to keep in mind, and it might help you if you are having doubts about your makeup collection. </div>
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Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-21548398174749530762017-12-27T10:19:00.002-08:002017-12-27T10:33:19.743-08:00What to Do with a Niacinamide AllergyIf you've spent any time perusing ingredients lists or learning about skincare science, you've come across <b>niacinamide</b>. Niacinamide is an antioxidant/vitamin (Vitamin B3) and it is a gold star ingredient for so many skin types and problems. From the title of this post you've probably guessed- but I have an unfortunate allergy to the ingredient. And I've met many others who share this problem. Usually an ingredient sensitivity is no big whoop- most ingredients have easy "dupes" which replicate the same effect. Not quite so with niacinamide- and that's because niacinamide does so many damn things, and it does them so well...<br />
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<ul>
<li>Repairs damaged moisture barrier</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Soothes and relieves irritation and redness</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Works well to diminish acne</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Assists in fading hyperpigmentation</li>
</ul>
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<br /></div>
<div>
This wonder-ingredient does it all, and for the people who can happily use it, <i>go away nobody likes you</i>, but if you are allergic like me, here are some of the ingredients I've substituted in my routine in place of common niacinamide products. I will also list some great products I have successfully used that achieved for me what niacinamide does for others, but keep in mind this is not an exhaustive list. Since niacinamide is such a superstar, I am taking a multi-pronged approach to "duping" its presence in a routine- I will talk about both ingredients <i>and </i>delivery systems that can help with the same problems niacinamide addresses...</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Barrier Repair</h2>
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<br /></div>
<div>
Those of you with <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/how-i-fixed-my-dehydrated-skin.html">dehydrated skin</a> will be familiar with the concept of the skin's natural moisture barrier. The moisture barrier is the mechanism by which our skin protects itself and holds moisture. It is of utmost importance to skin health, function, and appearance. Dehydrated skin can be dull, flaky, painful, and prone to inflamed acne. Where niacinamide usually swoops in to help fix up a damaged moisture barrier, I substitute a few key elements...<br />
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<ul>
<li><b>Ceramides: </b>Ceramides and niacinamide are best buddies, found in many formulations side-by-side. But you don't need niacinamide to have a party. Ceramides, paired with fatty acids and cholesterol are still great for topical use to bolster a damaged or weakened moisture barrier. They're common in creams, but you can also find some toners and serums that contain these powerhouses.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Facial oils: </b>I neglected facial oils for a long time, thinking my oily skin didn't need them or wouldn't like them. I was incredibly wrong. I now think that basically everyone can benefit from some type of facial oil blend in their daily routine. Indeed, if you are suffering some type of dehydration in particular, you will probably find that the right mix of oils will help your skin recover some of its bounce and resilience.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Heavy petrolatum-based balms: </b>Niacinamide helps fix your moisture barrier, actively. Occlusive agents, petrolatum being the best of the best, won't immediately "go to work" on your skin, but they protect it and bolster its ability to repair itself naturally. It's not like a surgery to reset a bone, but like a cast to protect it while it heals. Sensitivites to petrolatum occur, but they are incredibly rare. It's something any skincare beginner can adapt to their routine, as it's unlikely to cause breakouts, but will absolutely get your moisturizing routine off to a good start.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<b>Recommendations:</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b>Ceramides:</b></div>
<div>
Cerave Moisturizing Cream</div>
<div>
Meishoku Ceracolla Gel</div>
<div>
Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Liquid</div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Facial oils:</b></div>
<div>
Stratia Fortify Oil</div>
<div>
The Ordinary Squalane Oil</div>
<div>
The Ordinary Marula Oil</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Petrolatum-based occlusives:</b></div>
<div>
Vaseline</div>
<div>
Cerave Healing Ointment</div>
<div>
Aquaphor</div>
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<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
</h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Anti-Inflammation</h2>
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<ul>
<li><b>Copper Tripeptide: </b>This is a bit of a hand-wavey next-gen antioxidant, but after using some copper products for a few months, I can see the redness reduction and pro-skin repair effects on my own face. I think that in the next 5 years, we will see more research and products with this ingredients, which encourages collagen production and reduces inflammation. Great for acneic and aging skin concerns.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Snail Mucin: </b>There's a reason things like starfish and bee venom have somewhat faded in popularity, but snail remains a staple in so many Asian skincare lovers' routines. Products containing snail tend to be exceptionally good at relieving irritation, redness, and inflammation. Great for use if your skin is irritated by climate, excessive picking (<a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/techniques-to-stop-skin-picking.html">hey you! Stop that!)</a>, or a breakout.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Madecassoside/Centella/Madecassic Acid: </b>This ingredient can be found in a pure botanical extract form and some derivatives.</li>
</ul>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.laroche-posay.us/dw/image/v2/AANG_PRD/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-acd-laroche-posay-master-catalog/default/dw5d82b3e9/product/3606000437449-Cicaplast-main.png?sw=600&sh=600&sm=fit" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="469" height="320" src="https://www.laroche-posay.us/dw/image/v2/AANG_PRD/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-acd-laroche-posay-master-catalog/default/dw5d82b3e9/product/3606000437449-Cicaplast-main.png?sw=600&sh=600&sm=fit" width="250" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>via LaRochePosay.us</i></td></tr>
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<b></b><br />
<b><b><br /></b></b>
<b><b><br /></b></b>
<b>Recommendations:</b></div>
</div>
<div>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Copper:</b></div>
<div>
NIOD Copper Amino Isolate</div>
<div>
Skin Biology Super CP Serum</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Snail:</b></div>
<div>
Mizon All in One Snail Repair Cream</div>
<div>
CosRX Snail 96 Essence</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Madecassoside:</b></div>
<div>
Klairs Supple Preparation Toner<br />
La Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume B5</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
</h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
</h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Anti-Acne</h2>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Of course there are <i>many </i>treatments out there for acne, but what makes niacinamide so useful for an acneic person is its gentle nature. Many acne-focused ingredients are harsh, sensitizing, and can cause problems for beginners. I will not be talking about those obvious acne treatments, but the ones that fall in the same category as niacinamide- gentle, fairly foolproof, and supplemental to harsher steps you might already have.<br />
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<br />
<ul>
<li><b>Azelaic acid: </b>I have personally found that AzA resolves my inflamed acne with fewer side effects and greater speed compared to BHA and retinoids. <a href="http://www.snowwhiteandtheasianpear.com/2015/09/a-review-of-pocketderm-why-im-azelaic.html">Read this</a> excellent Snow White and the Asian Pear post for more AzA details. A great benefit of AzA is it works to relieve inflammation, redness, and rosacea as well as acne, so it's the antithesis of your average drying acne treatment. </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Honey: </b>Raw honey will always have a special place in my heart. Its ability to repair and soothe skin while giving the effect of a more-drying clay mask makes it a no-brainer weekly treatment for acne-prone folks. <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/quick-fix-for-messy-diy-honey-mask.html">Here is my method</a> for creating mess-free DIY honey masks which you can use regularly- daily if you like. Honey is nourishing, gentle, and purifying for acne-riddled skin. It's something you can use alongside any acne regimen.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Tea Tree: </b>I know, I know- so many people would call this "harsh" and unforgiving as far as acne treatments go. The problem most people have is they either use alcohol-laden formulas with a tiny hint of tea tree <b>or </b>they commit the mortal sin of applying tea tree oil <b>straight up </b>to their faces. This will give you horrible chemical burns eventually, and is not advisable under any conditions. However, I find TTO mixed at a 2% concentration into a gentle carrier oil (jojoba, argan, camellia, mineral, rosehip, squalane) makes for a lovely gentle allover treatment. I use a few drops mixed into my moisturizer nearly every day to incorporate this anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial ingredient without compromising my skin's moisture levels.</li>
</ul>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0543/8301/products/Tea_Tree_90_Essence_grande.png?v=1448384027" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="593" data-original-width="583" height="320" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0543/8301/products/Tea_Tree_90_Essence_grande.png?v=1448384027" width="314" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>via Glowrecipe.com</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<b>Recommendations:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Azelaic Acid:</b><br />
The Ordinary 10% Azelaic Acid Suspension<br />
Melazepam 20% Cream<br />
<br />
<b>Honey:</b><br />
Raw honey<br />
<br />
<b>Tea tree:</b><br />
DIY 2% tea tree oil blend<br />
LJH Tea Tree Essence<br />
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</h2>
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Fading Hyperpigmentation</h2>
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<li><b>Arbutin: </b>Alpha-arbutin promotes skin brightening and fading of visible UV damage in the form of dark spots/post acne spots. It's rarer than niacinamide, but I've found it to be excellent for brightening, caring for PIH, and overall skin tone. </li>
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<li><b>Vitamin C: </b>Vitamin C is definitely a little stronger/more intense than niacinamide, but it's not quite as tricky to introduce as an exfoliating acid. L-Ascorbic Acid is the form of Vitamin C that has the most proven efficacy for affecting skin tone and texture, and can be found in many serums. This is a great active to use, even if you are already using acids or retinoids.</li>
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<li><b>Licorice root extract: </b>Found in many Asian skincare products, licorice is an all-round great- not quite as multifunctional as niacinamide, but it comes close. Its main benefits are brightening and soothing for redness/irritation. </li>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/819LqR-NyTL._SY679_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="679" data-original-width="287" height="400" src="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/819LqR-NyTL._SY679_.jpg" width="168" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>via Amazon.com</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>Recommendations:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Arbutin: </b><br />
DHC Arbutin Masks<br />
Hada Labo Shirojyun Line<br />
Kikumasamune High Moist Lotion<br />
<br />
<b>Vitamin C:</b><br />
Timeless Vitamin C Serum<br />
Stratia Vitamin C (coming soon-<br />
check <a href="https://www.instagram.com/stratiaskin/">the Stratia Instagram Page</a>!)<br />
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<b>Licorice Root:</b><br />
Paula's Choice Redness Relief Toner<br />
TonyMoly I'm Real Mask (Rice)<br />
Naturie Hatomugi Skin Conditioner<br />
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Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-25248405554057806792017-12-20T09:56:00.000-08:002018-05-15T11:24:44.420-07:002017 Favorites: Skincare<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Whamisa Green Tea Serum Toner</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BZXbN-_Fcum/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-09-23T02:01:28+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Sep 22, 2017 at 7:01pm PDT</time></div>
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2016 saw me raving about Klairs Supple Preparation Toner. It was the first Asian toner that didn't break me out and actually gave me visible hydration results. I recommended it to dozens of people, many who ended up loving it as much as me. Then I betrayed the happy little relationship and cheated with the brand-new Whamisa Green Tea Serum Toner.<br />
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This toner is a product of the collaboration between the Korean brand Whamisa and the USA-based KBeauty shop Glow Recipe. It contains alcohol, making it unsuitable for some sensitive skins, but perfect for my oily, dehydration-prone face. This toner gives me a bounce and radiance I don't get from the Klairs. It absorbs quickly and gets the job done, making it ideal for quick routines and long luxurious ones alike.<br />
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I think of this as the little sister of the (original) Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Liquid. Though she be watery, yea she is mighty. I can apply multiple layers of this for the "7 Skin Method" or just a single layer, and my skin immediately looks smoother and more hydrated.<br />
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<i>I purchase this product from Target.com where it runs between $15 and $22 depending on current coupons and sales.</i><br />
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Stratia Velvet Cleansing Milk</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BctTbuwFv6h/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-12-15T03:30:55+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Dec 14, 2017 at 7:30pm PST</time></div>
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First cleansers came and went this year- I've bounced between oils, balms, and micellar waters. But the one thing that remained constant is the Velvet Cleansing Milk. This cleanser is stickier to the touch compared to something like Ponds Cold Cream. You'd never mistake it for a leave-on lotion, it's undoubtedly a cleanser. It's texture makes it luxurious and oh-so-gentle when applied to a damp or dry face and massaged. It glides over the skin but latches onto dirt and grime, whisking it away without leaving a trace.<br />
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National Parks/Forests here in the USA often have signs which instruct you to <i>Leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but memories</i> from protected wildlife areas (i.e. don't throw garbage on the ground, don't kidnap squirrels.) That's the sentiment that I always recall when talking about the Velvet Cleansing Milk. It somehow leaves zero residue, yet it doesn't strip anything away that shouldn't be removed.<br />
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<i>I purchase this product from StratiaSkin.com where it is $15 full price, but I wait for the occasional 20% off sales that Stratia holds for major holiday weekends.</i><br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Whamisa Organic Flowers & Aloe Mask</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BU96D6rldK4/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-06-05T18:05:09+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jun 5, 2017 at 11:05am PDT</time></div>
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I bought this mask as kind of a joke- <i>har har let's see what these suckers paying $9.00 per mask are wasting their time on</i>- and I ended up pranking myself, bro. Because this $9.00 slippery gel mask has become indispensable in my routine. I actually rearranged my skincare budget simply to allow for at least a once per week use of this mask.</div>
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The effects I notice cannot be overstated. When my skin is stressed out, either because I myself am stressed, or because I touched it, picked it, flew on an airplane, wore my makeup for too long...this stops the skin stress in its tracks and actually reverses it. It produces a pure and beaming glow on my face that looks like I've applied an expensive illuminating primer. It smooths the rough edges on healing acne. It flattens cysts in their tracks. It restores a firm plump texture to deflated, dehydrated skin.</div>
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I love having a stash of these bad boys because it I ever have a desperate SOS (Save our Skin) week when everything seems to be going up in flames, I will apply one mask at night, follow with a simple nighttime routine, and then apply one more mask the next morning, and it is a guarantee that my bad skin week will be dead in the water.</div>
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The <i>only </i>complaint I have for this mask, and it's minor, is that the jelly residue it leaves on the skin is unwearable under makeup and does not fully absorb. It does not leave a heavy sensation, but if you rub anything on top- oil, cream, foundation, it will get streaky and pilly. So it's best to use at nighttime, or when you use in the daytime, rinse briefly with water. That sounds horrible, like you're wasting the precious essence, but my skin still looks just as incredible when I wear this as a morning mask and then rinse gently with water only.</div>
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<i>I purchase these from Glow Recipe when there is a 25% off discount, or through Amazon Prime when I'm in a rush at $9/each.</i><br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Stratia Fortify Oil</h2>
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BgeR6gunU_f/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BgeR6gunU_f/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-03-18T17:34:37+00:00">Mar 18, 2018 at 10:34am PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
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Another Stratia rave- I can't help it! Fortify is an oil blend that made me believe in oils again. It's composed of camellia, borage, perilla, squalane, marula, jojoba, cranberry, and tamanu oils, and the ratio is just-right for restoring, soothing, and protecting the skin. The name Fortify is apt- I feel that this has strengthened my skin barrier and allowed it to take a bit more abuse without falling back into its old ways. It heals irritation and gives a bouncy, pliable texture to my skin.</div>
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In the past, a few major events would trigger a full-on skin meltdown. These include the transition from Fall to Winter and airplane travel. I traveled internationally this fall and my skin got a double wallop, yet it remained perfectly in balance, and actually continued to <i>improve </i>during my trip and after I got home. I attribute a large chunk of the credit to Fortify, as it's the <i>one </i>item I didn't skip in a single morning or nighttime routine during my travels. Between jet lag and general fatigue, I admit that I had a hard time completing my usual 10 step night routine. But I <i>always </i>applied a puddle of Fortify, sometimes mixed with essence, sometimes mixed with my night cream, sometimes just used alone after washing my face. And my skin was happy as a clam.</div>
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There are so many options for facial oils nowadays- you can purchase raw ingredients or buy from a number of brands who make their own. I think that the Stratia Fortify is a must-have for any facial oil lover, and a great beginner oil due to the versatile texture (neither too light nor too heavy) and the reasonable price point.<br />
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<i>This product is $18 on StratiaSkin.com but again, I usually stock up during sales.</i></div>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
SNP Bird's Nest Aqua Ampoule Mask</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BYZx4tCFFj4/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-08-30T03:26:38+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Aug 29, 2017 at 8:26pm PDT</time></div>
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This humble cotton sheet mask has beaten out the dozens of masks I tried in 2016 and 2017 to win my heart. One thing first off- it is much cheaper than the Whamisa, but it does not have quite the miraculous all-round effects of that one. What it does is drench my skin in moisture and fix any tightness, flaking, or dehydration issues that come with hormonal swings, travel, and climate changes.<br />
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My skin responds very poorly to indoor heating and A/C, so it's at war with my office climate during the summers and winters especially. My occlusive morning routine is usually enough to prevent any major damage, but when I feel parched, I slather on Stratia Fortify and slap on the SNP mask, and all is right in the world. There are dozens of "types" of sheet masks out there, but nearly every one of them provides a basic level of hydration. The SNP destroys every other sheet mask I've sampled as far as hydration goes. It absorbs into my skin completely and the effects last for days. It also gives me a great radiance boost, which only lasts about 24 hours (compared to the multiple-days glow I get from the Whamisa) but it's lighter texture makes it an exceptional special event/morning mask.<br />
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<i>I purchase these through eBay and Amazon where a 10-pack runs between $14 and $16.</i></div>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
NIOD SDSM2</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BbLRzd9lTNi/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-11-07T01:51:06+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Nov 6, 2017 at 5:51pm PST</time></div>
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Oh Deciem, you science-washing, pretentious, crap-at-logistics company, you. I've expressed <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/04/why-i-love-and-hate-ordinary.html">what I find</a> distasteful about the Deciem umbrella of brands as a whole, but I do believe they offer quite a few quality products. NIOD is the expensive and elegant member of the Deciem family, and the products in their range often boast very odd and next-gen ingredients. SDSM2 is one such product. Its full name is the Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist 2 (the first version was reformulated and improved upon this year.)</div>
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It claims to prevent water loss, reduce oxidative/environmental stress, and improve skin's ability to repair. I did not want to love this product, due to the price and my lukewarm feelings toward the company that makes it. However, I can say in the month and a half since I began using it, I notice my skin having that tiny bit more resilience to dehydration. The week before I started SDSM2, I felt the creeping tightness usually associated with winter right after washing my face, and after 4 days of using the mist, that was gone (without additional tweaks to my routine.)<br />
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After blowing through a third of my bottle, as the fine mist feels luxurious spritzed 10-12 times per use, I saw someone on Instagram suggest to dispense it into your palm and press it on like a first essence. That works like gangbusters, has the same effects as a more liberal mist, and stretches this bottle of liquid money much further. When I repurchase this, I plan to decant it into a dropper bottle which allows for even greater control over the portion size.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Melazepam</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BcVAd1vlDvG/" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none; word-wrap: break-word;" target="_blank">Before and After skin transformation from Spring 2016 to Autumn 2017! If you want to read my current skincare routine in its entirety, I just wrote it up in a blog post. Click the link in my bio to read 👆👆👆 - #skincarecommunity #instaskincare #rasianbeauty #beforeandafter #365inskincare #carolinehironsmademedoit #skincarejunkie #skincareroutine #morningskincare #eveningskincare #sdsm #stratiaskin #bioderma #whamisa #cosrx #vichyusa #snailskincare #hormonalacne</a></div>
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A post shared by @<a href="https://www.instagram.com/faceonomics/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px;" target="_blank"> faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-12-05T17:03:24+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Dec 5, 2017 at 9:03am PST</time></div>
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After struggling with <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-1.html">beastly hormonal acne</a> for years, I have found a miracle cure in Azelaic Acid. I began my current treatment plan of 20% azelaic acid the first week of December 2016, and while I saw dramatic results within the first few weeks, the gains have only snowballed since then.<br />
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Azelaic acid addresses redness and acne but it is not a traditional exfoliating acid like BHA or AHA, so it can be used in an acid-heavy routine without the same risk of dehydration that you get with layering multiple AHAs or BHA. For me, it was much more effective <i>and </i>gentle compared to prescription tretinoin.<br />
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I currently use the Melazepam treatment cream, which can be purchased over the counter in the USA via several online sources. It feels like the average prescription acne topical, which is to say it's quite clunky, thick, and drags on the skin. It's not cosmetically elegant, but if you saw results like my before and after...would you care?<br />
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<i>I purchase this from Amazon Prime for around $13, and it can also be purchased on VitaminShoppe.com.</i><br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Heritage Lavender Spray</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BcsB2lSFwd2/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-12-14T15:38:03+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Dec 14, 2017 at 7:38am PST</time></div>
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This is the simplest product on my favorites list, and also wins the title of "most ridiculous ingredients list," as it claims to contain specially-magnetized water that benefits the skin. I just want to make it clear that that is pure distilled magnetized stupid, and the reason this spray is a favorite is that it's simple, soothing, and hydrating. You cannot get more basic than a glycerin-in-water mist, which is what the Heritage spray is.</div>
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You can easily DIY your own mist if you are confident, own a kitchen scale, and understand the important of preservatives. If not, or you're just lazy like me- this is a wonderful inexpensive option. My skin actually prefers glycerin mists to any mists containing hyaluronic acid, so I'm not bothered by the simplicity. I can tell a huge difference in my skin's moisture levels especially during the winter if I spritz this on between applying my skincare steps.</div>
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It smells beautifully of light, non-soapy lavender, and the rosewater version has an equally enchanting smell. If you are not sensitive to or allergic to rosewater, I definitely suggest picking that one up as well.</div>
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<i>I buy this on Amazon Prime for between $7 and $9.</i></div>
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Cerave Healing Ointment</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BcluYt4FsYc/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-12-12T04:52:31+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Dec 11, 2017 at 8:52pm PST</time></div>
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The Cerave Healing Ointment is a hero product that's been featured in <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/stretching-your-stash-mixing-skincare.html">many posts of mine</a>. If you're new to skincare, I will <i>always </i>advise you purchase a petrolatum-based ointment to use over your skincare at night. It locks in the moisture, prevents dehydration, and acts as a "crutch" for damaged moisture barriers. Vaseline is the beginner-friendly option due to the price and the simple ingredients list, but if you're ready to level up your #sluglife game, pick up a jar of the Healing Ointment.<br />
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I have to note the cost (which ranges from $10 to $20) is extremely reasonable considering I've used it once daily for 13 months and I'm only halfway done with my jar. The product features the all-powerful petrolatum, the single most effective barrier against transepidermal water loss, but it also boasts hyaluronic acid, ceramides, along with fatty ingredients like cholesterol and phytosphingosine. This all-star cast of protective, skin-repairing ingredients are so helpful for repairing dehydration and preventing it in the first place.<br />
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I love to mix this with another product to use as a final layer at night, but on lazy days I just use it on its own. It doubles as a "lip sleeping mask" (if you're extra like me) or a plain protective balm. This is one of the best products you can buy in the drugstore, especially if you suffer from tightness, flakiness under makeup, or aggravated breakouts combined with dry-feeling skin (all signs you're dehydrated, by the way, <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/how-i-fixed-my-dehydrated-skin.html">you're welcome.</a>)<br />
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<i>I purchase this product from local drugstores and the large jar costs between $10 and $20 depending on coupons and promotions.</i><br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
La Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume B5</h2>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BbQmVpjFeYV/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by @faceonomics</a> on <time datetime="2017-11-09T03:26:44+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Nov 8, 2017 at 7:26pm PST</time></div>
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I already can tell 2018 will be the year of the cica-product. These products (usually featuring a mix of madeccasoside, madecassic acid, and zinc) have been common to French pharmacy lines like Avene, Bioderma, and La Roche Posay for many years, but Korean brands are catching on and releasing entire lines based around healing, soothing, anti-inflammatory ingredients.<br />
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La Roche Posay's version is my favorite of the ones I've tried. I find its blend of madecassic acid, zinc, and panthenol to be exceptionally soothing for anything from an allergic reaction to a painful breakout. Its sticky texture and brief white cast make it more suitable for nighttime used, but honestly I have used it under sunscreen in the morning and it was not the worst.<br />
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I always see people mistaking this for a moisturizer- it's not truly a moisturizing product (although it does contain emollient and hydrating ingredients.) Due to the inclusion of zinc, this product has a neutral to net-drying effect. That is to say, for <i>most </i>people, if they attempted to use this as a sole moisturizer, they would probably find themselves drying out within a week. Think of it as you would any drying product- a spot treatment or an exfoliating acid- and baby your skin with extra moisture when you use it. Nothing beats this cream for instant redness and burning/itching relief. I brought this with me on vacation just in case, and I got a horrible allergic reaction rash on my forehead the first morning I arrived- slapped on the Cicaplast when I returned to the hotel and it was gone within a few hours.<br />
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If you have a great deal of acne (similar to my Before picture above) and find your pimples are <i>painful </i>or <i>itchy </i>then the Cicaplast Baume will be very useful to you. When you are using something like tretinoin or benzoyl peroxide, and you can't stand the drying nature of additional acids or spot treatments, Cicaplast spread over your affected acne will soothe without overloading your skin.<br />
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<i>I purchase this from Amazon Prime for $14.</i><br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Honorable Mentions/Farewells</h2>
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This was the year that all my favorite shit was reformulated or discontinued, because the world is unfair. I want to rave about them but I don't want to make anybody feel sad for missing out so I will simply list them for posterity and as a final goodbye...<br />
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<ul>
<li>Dr. Jart Ceramidin Liquid</li>
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<li>Dr. Jart Ceramidin Cream</li>
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<li>Innisfree It's Real Squeeze Mask Bija</li>
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<li>Benton Snail Bee Essence</li>
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<i>All products mentioned in this post were purchased by me, with no affiliate discounts or gifting involved. <b>Stay tuned for my 2017 MAKEUP Favorites Post, coming up very soon!</b></i></div>
Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-47752519181478067242017-12-17T17:43:00.004-08:002017-12-20T14:12:04.236-08:00How I Apply Blush: Modified Igari StyleSometimes I apply my blush in the common Western way- on the cheekbones/apples of cheeks alone. But in 2017 I discovered that I love the way my face looks with a modified igari style. Igari describes a blush trend that originated in Japan and is characterized by concentrated, high placement of bright blush. Usually the blush is placed closer to the eyes or nose in contrast with most Western blush placement trends. The name refers to the fact that it lends a slightly irritated look to the eye area, reminiscent of how you might look with a hangover. Sounds unflattering, but you'd be surprised!<br />
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In contrast to the traditional igari style, which keeps the majority of the color directly under the outer third of the eyes, I drag the color across my nose bridge and slightly further down onto the apple of my cheek.<br />
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Below are some examples of this blush placement:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8XzZ3E3ckaBTMQM9AOIOOPBOeJAJKCCpY4ANn09bsAdDZ2AMxEacZiS-cb5VU38yIJq_HLGXiux2cK3yExyxP04QNXH4ISs66_DofOn38EDDlAg22sxpTtjw_POfubnENWAxBo-slkJmY/s1600/IMG_8823.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8XzZ3E3ckaBTMQM9AOIOOPBOeJAJKCCpY4ANn09bsAdDZ2AMxEacZiS-cb5VU38yIJq_HLGXiux2cK3yExyxP04QNXH4ISs66_DofOn38EDDlAg22sxpTtjw_POfubnENWAxBo-slkJmY/s200/IMG_8823.jpg" width="199" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVK69Mb38u9_X9_FCWJZfW4Ptb2ww1gDqrlh7IRiNsEUKJab4okO1qRahsMhjAD0UieWT48E5CfuwC0MQ4JUWENCRHPsyFZnH6NpRYJphMeUJ4eOyjGPQlAMDt3_bIm4w9vqis6gH_qvD4/s1600/IMG_8476.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVK69Mb38u9_X9_FCWJZfW4Ptb2ww1gDqrlh7IRiNsEUKJab4okO1qRahsMhjAD0UieWT48E5CfuwC0MQ4JUWENCRHPsyFZnH6NpRYJphMeUJ4eOyjGPQlAMDt3_bIm4w9vqis6gH_qvD4/s200/IMG_8476.jpg" width="199" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY0qjLIsW2YetPq1-oz34LPrN9pcCEbLHXPPFO1kuWFJ31ZW4u1gtlv2MT51LwviNwfBvPGa433ioBdhkQt4zlj7luQxUdvURGfwl2ifT3gVTn1VPuwuObg8A2UQQ6M4RTNjvYNmPJyywI/s1600/IMG_8361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY0qjLIsW2YetPq1-oz34LPrN9pcCEbLHXPPFO1kuWFJ31ZW4u1gtlv2MT51LwviNwfBvPGa433ioBdhkQt4zlj7luQxUdvURGfwl2ifT3gVTn1VPuwuObg8A2UQQ6M4RTNjvYNmPJyywI/s200/IMG_8361.jpg" width="199" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPW3YOPrBUvlHDF8EfhDONNnU3DMzi59DQOnXUSePyAjQZc-pGnxSkvM0II6RPko9-bx1_L4J4DAcsQDd0kXWOqASjJSS41xfofy-76GWiZ5dkekROx4wJ0-00RFPRQ52C2S704Dx8ogJr/s1600/IMG_8152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPW3YOPrBUvlHDF8EfhDONNnU3DMzi59DQOnXUSePyAjQZc-pGnxSkvM0II6RPko9-bx1_L4J4DAcsQDd0kXWOqASjJSS41xfofy-76GWiZ5dkekROx4wJ0-00RFPRQ52C2S704Dx8ogJr/s200/IMG_8152.jpg" width="199" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2xePpsEjfnpYSzALXT-8TWW0SNOtzDZyzDHDmwxpAiFo_T30XOGjt9ms3W_JRODCqHvXoMNs0YhglFMoUKFT684DuJdDHq2BV5_sW-YkuqJ2GJ3_pyL17lXOS3p2Mau3wAtx5lkDcx2Qc/s1600/IMG_9081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1599" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2xePpsEjfnpYSzALXT-8TWW0SNOtzDZyzDHDmwxpAiFo_T30XOGjt9ms3W_JRODCqHvXoMNs0YhglFMoUKFT684DuJdDHq2BV5_sW-YkuqJ2GJ3_pyL17lXOS3p2Mau3wAtx5lkDcx2Qc/s200/IMG_9081.jpg" width="199" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG9cQzIYTvd7taOnfdH-pL44lfLs-VfmtoTSCR7ZPMoOSEFHwboWhR1JFa1KbyBSjNYZpGoOGVtAWyv4V9xkWAm60D2FrYsaoPjwOfnWBlsr8TMFoiEzj442s7ndgcD_Pit_KSLiHu9mJG/s1600/IMG_9082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG9cQzIYTvd7taOnfdH-pL44lfLs-VfmtoTSCR7ZPMoOSEFHwboWhR1JFa1KbyBSjNYZpGoOGVtAWyv4V9xkWAm60D2FrYsaoPjwOfnWBlsr8TMFoiEzj442s7ndgcD_Pit_KSLiHu9mJG/s200/IMG_9082.jpg" width="199" /></a></div>
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I prefer to wear bold and noticeable blush, but the placement can be tweaked for a more natural look (as in the second photo above.) This blush technique takes a bit more time and a few more tools compared to the classic one color apple-of-cheek placement, but it's a great technique to have in your arsenal to switch it up.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
What You'll Need</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9XMwGnf6Gv2eF-Mgt4IiVxbNq_5bWO3IzZ8SGYAArk3RTIuvgoJUcjT8qB6n-jIR5w3eiHvhcLxzFp9t5nMxvskuYPA73Jmip8uqfM2xIy6SLH-WN0CAm9tdzNCeI8QRSR6rfqa_ls21q/s1600/IMG_9116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9XMwGnf6Gv2eF-Mgt4IiVxbNq_5bWO3IzZ8SGYAArk3RTIuvgoJUcjT8qB6n-jIR5w3eiHvhcLxzFp9t5nMxvskuYPA73Jmip8uqfM2xIy6SLH-WN0CAm9tdzNCeI8QRSR6rfqa_ls21q/s400/IMG_9116.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Basic supplies needed for this look</i></div>
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<li><b>Bronzer:</b> that suits your skintone- keep it relatively neutral and matte, as you will want it to blend in with your skin</li>
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<li><b>Nude blush: </b>Matte or <i>slightly </i>satin powder blush 1-2 shades deeper than your natural skintone</li>
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<li><b>Medium blush: </b>Matte or satin powder blush 3-4 shades deeper than your natural skintone</li>
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<ul>
<li><b>Pop of color blush: </b>Matte or satin powder blush in a very vibrant/bright tone- stay away from anything with too much brown or gray in it</li>
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<ul>
<li><b>Narrow blush brush: </b>I suggest the <b>Wayne Goss Air Brush</b> or anything with similar head shape. Can substitute a flat paddle shaped foundation brush.</li>
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<ul>
<li><b>Fluffy blush brush: </b>Should still be a relatively small head- the Real Techniques blush brush is too large for this purpose. Can be natural fiber (squirrel, goat) or duofibre synthetic. I like the <b>Suqqu Blush Brush </b>best but <b>Chikuhodo Z4 </b>is a good option as well.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Pointed blush brush (optional): </b>Even narrower than the above two brushes, but with a pointed tip for precise dotting of color. Can substitute a large fluffy eyeshadow brush. I used the <b>Wayne Goss 02 Powder Brush</b>.</li>
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Please take special care to <b>coordinate your blush colors</b>. By that I mean you must match the temperature of your blush tones (warm, neutral, cool.) You do not want to have too much contrast in <i>undertone </i>because we are already working with variation in depth, so we will rely on the harmonious tones to carry the look.</div>
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If you use something like <b>Hourglass Dim Infusion </b>(a peachy orange nude) topped with <b>NARS Dolce Vita </b>(a rich neutral berry) you will not find it easy to create a harmonious and well-blended but intentional look. Mixing undertones in a complex blush look is possible, it's just not something to attempt before you've practiced the basics.</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Before Beginning: Base Makeup</h2>
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Complete your base routine with foundation or concealer, whatever you like. <b>Take special care to set your foundation in the cheek, cheekbone, and nose area with plenty of powder. </b>You do not want any tackiness or dewiness to remain.<br />
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Highlight in the normal fashion (tops of cheekbones) if you like. If you are using mostly luminous/satin blushes, <b>skip this step.</b></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://media.giphy.com/media/xUNd9Tn9yjmZaoDGp2/giphy.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="452" data-original-width="480" height="376" src="https://media.giphy.com/media/xUNd9Tn9yjmZaoDGp2/giphy.gif" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Highlight (if desired!)</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Step 1: The Stripening</h2>
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First, <b>using your flat brush</b>, apply your bronzer in a <b>swiping motion</b>. Skim the tops of your cheekbones and take it over your nose bridge. Concentrate color directly on the bridge of the nose, and along the outer edges of your cheeks. This is necessary for every look- not only "beach babe" ones. If you are after a very bronzey gold look that day, you can use <b>two bronzers</b>, layering a more intense orange one on top of the first neutral one.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.giphy.com/media/l4Ep0VLlZDmI8iFc4/giphy.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="444" height="400" src="https://i.giphy.com/media/l4Ep0VLlZDmI8iFc4/giphy.webp" width="370" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Use horizontal tapping and swiping motions with bronzer</i></td></tr>
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Then take your <b>nude blush </b>and the same brush, and <b>retrace the bronzer placement</b>. Feel free to overlap or go outside the border you created, the bronzer will serve as a guide that allows for a fuzzy pre-blended edge with little extra work. Make sure to <b>only use horizontal strokes</b>. This will serve as the stabilizer for the more tricky vibrant colors you layer on top- the fact that it's a nude blush will mean it will blend itself without harsh borders.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.giphy.com/media/l4EoRf2AnfJZ8dCtG/giphy.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="456" height="400" src="https://i.giphy.com/media/l4EoRf2AnfJZ8dCtG/giphy.webp" width="380" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Striping motions to apply your nude "blush base"</i></td></tr>
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Step 2: The Sculpting</h2>
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Now comes time to add some dimension with your <b>second blush color</b>. This time pick up your <b>fluffy</b> <b>brush</b> and apply your second blush in <b>tight, circular motions</b>. Do not cover the entire area of color, but focus on the inner portions of the face. You can sweep/brush the color that you apply outward toward the cheekbone, but <b>focus application on the inner cheeks</b> near your nose bridge. You should also dot the color gently <b>across the nose bridge</b> so the blush on both sides of your face is joined.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.giphy.com/media/3ohjUNiQ9zB7zKhhew/giphy.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="480" height="397" src="https://i.giphy.com/media/3ohjUNiQ9zB7zKhhew/giphy.webp" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Gentle swirling and soft sweeping</i></td></tr>
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Step 3: The Pop</h2>
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You can actually leave your blush as-is after Step 2. However I always add the final touch of a super <b>vibrant blob of blush</b> right under the iris of each eye. This makes the blush look very dimensional, and it also draws focus to your eyes, making them sparkle. The fresh "bloom" of color you see in all the photos at the top of this post are a result of using a saturated, scary blush, sparingly. Use a dotting motion, swirl slightly if needed. Usually very little buffing is necessary as you are placing it over a base of color, which means the edges of your bright blush won't look garish or unblended.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.giphy.com/media/3ohjVbz2pJpiGsG1jO/giphy.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="480" height="380" src="https://i.giphy.com/media/3ohjVbz2pJpiGsG1jO/giphy.webp" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Adding a splash of vibrant blush finishes the look</i></td></tr>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Step 4: Final Blend</h2>
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If desired, take your original flat brush used for bronzer to smooth out the transitions. It is crucial to keep this step brief and light, because if you blend too vigorously, you will negate the use of multiple blushes, and you will find yourself with a completely uniform haze. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.giphy.com/media/3ohjV1gBxmrSFUO6JO/giphy.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://i.giphy.com/media/3ohjV1gBxmrSFUO6JO/giphy.webp" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Keep final blend to a bare minimum</i></td></tr>
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I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and found it somewhat illuminating. I have been experimenting with this blush placement a lot this year and it is much more versatile than you might think. It also suits a wide variety of face shapes and noses, but individual exact placement will vary slightly. Experiment and let me know if you need suggestions or further pointers. </div>
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Please <a href="https://www.instagram.com/faceonomics/">come visit me on Instagram</a> and let me know what types of post you'd like me to do next!</div>
Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-62428442415985659532017-12-05T07:25:00.001-08:002017-12-05T07:25:02.980-08:00Current Skincare Routine<div style="text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHv-nAoghHKshMbkUOQV_ph7SHiUH02vfCEXcGh4QM80sxu_izWAmrx8wTAAui0zgZEdksa6lVrWGN_oy77OrwDwR7zyc-QrfGIAoRcIvR3jNmES_rB2ewieUd0D2IuATh6zW-xLVlmXbh/s1600/89A40E66-66FD-43EB-99F7-1B024157BDE9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHv-nAoghHKshMbkUOQV_ph7SHiUH02vfCEXcGh4QM80sxu_izWAmrx8wTAAui0zgZEdksa6lVrWGN_oy77OrwDwR7zyc-QrfGIAoRcIvR3jNmES_rB2ewieUd0D2IuATh6zW-xLVlmXbh/s640/89A40E66-66FD-43EB-99F7-1B024157BDE9.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left: Spring 2016 // Right: Autumn 2017</td></tr>
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My skin has come a long way in the last couple of years. Part of that is my hormones stabilizing (and they could go haywire again) but I owe much of the improvements to my routine. I rarely post my routine on Instagram because it looks basically the same every single night/morning. Here are the hows and whys of my current morning and night routine- and what changes I've noticed in my skin since these routines have been in place!<br />
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Morning Skincare Routine</h2>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA54SO53ouMZQ0QXsDWWviV_oZnelKO_Rnho6zoW8GcUiDHKrxDF60btfFAvbOSsSRHwVv2JMkTUlpKKr4QXsOU2bYFs8pv5RqhxI5mGzJ5DkWO5Pe1S5LXugXYs5YS86kO_TcFJsMAZry/s1600/IMG_8456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA54SO53ouMZQ0QXsDWWviV_oZnelKO_Rnho6zoW8GcUiDHKrxDF60btfFAvbOSsSRHwVv2JMkTUlpKKr4QXsOU2bYFs8pv5RqhxI5mGzJ5DkWO5Pe1S5LXugXYs5YS86kO_TcFJsMAZry/s400/IMG_8456.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watery antioxidant/prep steps for the morning</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<b>Keywords for my morning routine: <i>Smooth, hydrate, plump, protect. </i></b></h3>
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I wear a full face of makeup every day, so I need my skincare to work in concert with my makeup. I need to look glowy but not greasy, and I want to stop any emergence of flakes or roughness that will mess up the finish of my base.</div>
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<b>Stratia Velvet Cleansing Milk: </b>This is halfway between a gel and a cream cleanser. It leaves no residue, but it is not a foaming, squeakifying cleanser. I don't think cleansing in the morning is a necessary step for everyone. When I was <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/how-i-fixed-my-dehydrated-skin.html">actively recovering from dehydration</a>, I completely abstained from a morning cleanse. While this product is important for me to cleanse off the residue from the night before, I can get away with not cleansing some days.</div>
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<b>Mizon Daily Clean AHA/BHA Toner: </b>I use this post-cleanse because I rarely use true acids/actives in the morning. Sometimes I want a little smoothing action, and I find this does a gentle job exfoliating but also assists in plumping/hydrating my skin. I don't use this every morning- maybe twice a week.<br />
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<b>NIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist: </b>I haven't been shy about my feelings toward the <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/04/why-i-love-and-hate-ordinary.html">Deciem umbrella</a> of brands, but the SDSM is the one product they make that has become indispensable to me. It functions as an FTE (first treatment essence) in my routine, because it has a watery, fast-absorbing texture. I am allergic to niacinamide, an ingredient found in most FTEs, which promotes water retention in the skin. The SDSM substitutes well, as I noticed less irritation and water loss, as well as quicker healing time since I incorporated it.<br />
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<b>Skin Biology 7% GHK-Cu Accelerant: </b>This is a high-priced but not ridiculous (like NIOD) Copper Peptide serum. It is meant to be mixed into any skincare product, and treats my inflammation and irritation. I have noticed an overall calmer, less red appearance when I wake up in the morning since I began using this a few months ago.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4-r43oMEcXBxIV6Nw70M4aj-__RjXyd61TVe1BotK-vILwiTH4TIsgMp47p3aGSHG5p0tUn_a6DojfKQn26daS4YbZHyin6d-3jCKEFdYCdqp7GYvcfAcBWrS9xlhrLCHReRj2FguDVu/s1600/IMG_8450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4-r43oMEcXBxIV6Nw70M4aj-__RjXyd61TVe1BotK-vILwiTH4TIsgMp47p3aGSHG5p0tUn_a6DojfKQn26daS4YbZHyin6d-3jCKEFdYCdqp7GYvcfAcBWrS9xlhrLCHReRj2FguDVu/s400/IMG_8450.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some light, absorbent hydration to start</td></tr>
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<b>Whamisa Green Tea Serum Toner:</b> I find that my oily and dehydration-prone skin likes some <i>sparing </i>alcoholic skincare, as it soaks in fast and tends to plump and "rubberize" my skin to give me that chok-chok Korean ideal. This toner subtly brightens, soaks in fast, and hydrates my skin while soothing redness.</div>
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<b>Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Liquid: </b>Another quick-absorbing, multi-faceted hydrator that works excellently to combat and prevent dehydration and dullness.</div>
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<b>Paula's Choice Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Dry Skin: </b>Although I do not have dry skin, this toner ticks a lot of boxes for me as a morning step. It incorporates some fatty acids and oils which lend emollience and bounce to my skin without loading me up in grease. Soaks in more slowly and acts as a final step heavy hydrator on top of my watery steps.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI3oqh303h8c4MQheCrjT5TMrI0v39uIT2f7WHjO2T_KROjNUSKRzCm38QDAWLrSWCZdfafphThHU_bb8LytVqhyphenhyphen5hBHrh3j6hhJ1IpiNRqtNkr5HJLyPy2o7YhhbqalMy6W00H7TCfrDS/s1600/IMG_8454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI3oqh303h8c4MQheCrjT5TMrI0v39uIT2f7WHjO2T_KROjNUSKRzCm38QDAWLrSWCZdfafphThHU_bb8LytVqhyphenhyphen5hBHrh3j6hhJ1IpiNRqtNkr5HJLyPy2o7YhhbqalMy6W00H7TCfrDS/s400/IMG_8454.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Layers of emollient and occlusive ingredients to trap moisture</td></tr>
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<b>Klairs Supple Preparation Toner//CosRx Snail 96 Essence//Stratia Fortify: </b>I do a <i>lot </i>of mixing in my day to day routine, because sometimes nobody makes a single perfect product. For daytime, I think that mixing is necessary to balance the exact level of moisture with the amount of residue you're comfortable with. This combination results in a lightly emollient soothing gel.</div>
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<b>Vichy Aqualia Thermal Serum: </b>A <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BcL5oeqFEfe/?taken-by=faceonomics">longtime favorite of mine</a>, this product has become a daytime must-have for me. It traps the slightly oily and slippery early layers of my routine under a blanket of smooth, siliconey goodness. Acts as a hybrid primer and light moisturizer.</div>
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<b>Mizon All in One Snail Repair Cream//Simple Hydrating Booster: </b>On very hot, humid days, I'll skip this last step. However, in the cooler months it's more important. I apply this only on my chin/jawline where I'm most prone to dehydration. See <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/beauty-trade-offs.html">this post</a> for why and how I "zone" my face. This mixture of a thick essence with a very rich siliconey gel makes for a makeup-friendly but dehydration-busting layer of occlusivity.</div>
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<b>Skin Aqua Sarafit Silky Essence SPF 50: </b>A high SPF is completely non-negotiable for me. If you care at all about photoaging and hyperpigmentation, you cannot live without a daily SPF. I have been lucky enough to find multiple Japanese sunscreens that work excellently for my daily needs. This is a so-called "commuter" sunscreen- great for the type of sun exposure you'd get driving, taking the bus, and walking to lunch- not suited for outdoor sweating, swimming, or all-day high-UV-index exposure. The best sunscreen is one <i>you will use </i>so spend as much money and time as you need to find the perfect one for you.</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Evening Skincare Routine</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Uz51hX6UIuM-KzxOyUG9E6cAcvINgzkZeQrpjjDCSXFFZwMbf7z21pUUHTktFE-LNPnvfgYhyphenhyphenLs6YzEeCbYsqpvntSfklkok7wws2UUFccv2AKRhdZcekiE0qA-HnaRLZRpH1oG4tWoj/s1600/IMG_8455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Uz51hX6UIuM-KzxOyUG9E6cAcvINgzkZeQrpjjDCSXFFZwMbf7z21pUUHTktFE-LNPnvfgYhyphenhyphenLs6YzEeCbYsqpvntSfklkok7wws2UUFccv2AKRhdZcekiE0qA-HnaRLZRpH1oG4tWoj/s400/IMG_8455.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>My full nighttime cleansing routine</i></td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<b>Keywords for my evening routine: <i>Cleanse, treat, moisturize, strengthen.</i></b> </h3>
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I love a heavy face of moisturizer. As an oily-skinned gal, I think that isn't always the norm. But I find that my dehydration-prone skin and acneic tendencies make me more reliant on heavy occlusive moisturizers. And in the evening, when a greasy appearance is not a bad thing, I go all out. I also need to squeeze in my active ingredients, the ones which treat my acne and keep my skin in balance.</div>
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<b>Lancome BiFacil Makeup Remover: </b>Technically skincare, although I limit its use to the eye area- this is my holy grail waterproof makeup remover. I use this on a cotton pad when I'm wearing liner, mascara, or heavy eyeshadow. Otherwise, I skip to the next step.<br />
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<b>Bioderma Sensibio Micellar Water: </b>I was an oil-cleansing devotee for many years, but in the last 6 months I have found that my skin likes micellar water for a first cleanse. I notice a lot of people leave micellar water on without rinsing, which I find sensitizes and irritates the skin. I use this to remove the bulk of my makeup, then I follow with my second cleanser.<br />
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<b>Stratia Velvet Cleansing Milk: </b>My favorite gel/milk cleanser. I need to fully remove all residue of makeup, dirt, and sweat from the day, so I will massage this thoroughly after finishing my first cleanse, and then I rinse with warm water.<br />
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<b>Mizon Daily Clean AHA/BHA Toner: </b>Again, I don't use this every single night. But I use it if I'm particularly oily, broken-out, or my skin appears stressed (and not dry at all.) I never believed in acid "toners" that weren't real "actives" before this year, but since I added this I noticed increased clarity, improved skin texture, and better hydration.<br />
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<b>[1-3 TIMES PER WEEK] DIY Honey Mask: </b>I like to take advantage of the healing, anti-acne benefits of raw honey using <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/quick-fix-for-messy-diy-honey-mask.html">this method</a>. Most commercial "honey" products contain propolis, which I'm allergic to, and I find that using pure honey in a DIY mix is extremely effective for acne care and soothing. The benefits are most apparent if you wear this for at least an hour, so I keep this to a single use per week unless my skin is in extreme distress.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_oy_uWOYp1M4oBw55CPFNLwmgJADlONGa-OWuaaJzAlspWRfGV0wo3iXvw5IaZ9xqZdgFFSyTKtt5dyw5-MyQ-Zr8zMT5vKFzdqabgVvB6briB1kgjvBB6u6v5NlZKzyAqXihqjdiKv99/s1600/IMG_8453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_oy_uWOYp1M4oBw55CPFNLwmgJADlONGa-OWuaaJzAlspWRfGV0wo3iXvw5IaZ9xqZdgFFSyTKtt5dyw5-MyQ-Zr8zMT5vKFzdqabgVvB6briB1kgjvBB6u6v5NlZKzyAqXihqjdiKv99/s400/IMG_8453.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My library of actives</td></tr>
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<b>[4-5 TIMES PER WEEK] Acid Treatment: </b>I have oily, congestion-prone skin and overactive hormones, so I do need to do regular acne treatment to keep my skin clear. However, in the grand scheme of things, I'd say I have a fairly light to moderate schedule of actives. I find that exfoliating every single night, no matter how gentle, isn't right for my skin at the moment. I switch between <b>Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA</b>, <b>Alpha Skincare 10% Glycolic Treatment, </b>and <b>Melazepam (20% azelaic acid)</b>. I will occasionally double up and use two treatments on one night, but my usual schedule allows for 4-5 total active days, with at least 2 days of "rest" for my skin, when I purely focus on moisturizing.<br />
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<b>Whamisa Green Tea Serum Toner</b><br />
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<b>Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Liquid</b><br />
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<b>Klairs Supple Preparation Toner//CosRx Snail 96 Essence//Stratia Fortify</b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My two HG masks</td></tr>
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<b>[1-3 TIMES PER WEEK] Whamisa Organic Flowers Hydrogel Mask </b>OR <b>SNP Bird Nest Aqua Ampoule Mask: </b>I went down the usual Asian Beauty rabbit hole of buying dozens of varieties of sheet masks. Some people enjoy the variety of a large library of masks, but I've settled comfortably on just 2 as my regular treatments. The Whamisa variety is incredibly effective for fixing emerging breakouts, flaky irritation, and dullness. The SNP one is very moisturizing, and when worn on top of my usual essence/oil blend, allows for a super hydrating experience.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJUwcTGg9SFM-yIO7HYhknvld59Jr2jpl2xvBSswh-oIhxO9DRXVWvlM0dZ7cR2TgGuVgmT6Imk7h2lXyx1Gt9OOZKH5XvbKZ-nhY3B4l8Ou2mDrkj3SngJ3iYSRIYha8o5wPf7weYSQa/s1600/IMG_8457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJUwcTGg9SFM-yIO7HYhknvld59Jr2jpl2xvBSswh-oIhxO9DRXVWvlM0dZ7cR2TgGuVgmT6Imk7h2lXyx1Gt9OOZKH5XvbKZ-nhY3B4l8Ou2mDrkj3SngJ3iYSRIYha8o5wPf7weYSQa/s320/IMG_8457.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Cream </b>OR <b>Avene Soothing Moisture Mask</b><b>: </b>These two qualify as moderately heavy, hydrating night creams. They are slightly too rich to use in the morning, and they do an excellent job of soaking into my skin over the course of a few hours. I will apply this as my "sealing" step around 6 pm, and then I will leave my final step until bedtime.<br />
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<b>Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer: </b>This moisturizer contains less than 1% retinol, not enough to truly qualify as a "treatment" step, however it clarifies and smoothes my skin in a way that an inert moisturizer does not. I will usually only use this once or twice per week, on days I am not exfoliating. And if I'm particularly congested, taking a week off acids, or my barrier is compromised, I will use it more frequently.<br />
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<b>Emu oil: </b>Vegans, look away! Emu oil is made from liquified, purified fat from an emu bird. It's famously soothing, rarely causes reactions, and is intensely heavy and moisturizing. A sticky, inelegant oil, this makes no sense for morning use, but I love to mix a few drops into my nighttime moisturizer when my skin is extra thirsty. I find mixing a heavy oil into my night creams gives me more flexibility than having a ton of different creams for different moods.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeping pack to end all sleeping packs</td></tr>
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<b>Cerave Healing Ointment//Cerave Moisturizing Cream: </b>Since I posted about <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/stretching-your-stash-mixing-skincare.html">this DIY sleeping pack mix</a> early in 2017, I have received so many messages and comments telling me how well it works for others' dehydrated and dry skin types! I find this to be the most effective anti-dehydration barrier out of all the creams and packs I've tried. A sleeping pack is essential if you feel plump when you fall asleep and wake up parched. When I'm sick or dead tired, I will simply do a cleanse and this last step, and I'll wake up looking like a normal human, not a zombie.<br />
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What I Do Not Use</h2>
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<b>Physical Exfoliants: </b>My face responds well to acids. In my experience, my acne only worsens with scrubbing/manual exfoliation, so I stick to the chemicals.</div>
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<b>Foaming Cleansers: </b>While I appreciate the cleansing nature of a true gel-foam cleanser, I think that a gentle double cleanse has done more to repair my barrier and keep it in tip top shape while cleansing thoroughly.</div>
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<b>Tretinoin: </b>Currently my skin does not tolerate tretinoin, and I have found full resolution to my severe acne using the above exfoliants. I may begin a tretinoin or retinol treatment in a few years, but for now I am happy with sunscreen and antioxidants as preventative aging care.</div>
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<b>"Oil-free" Products: </b>Oil-free was a 90s-era-sham perpetrated on the skincare public! Oils are good- no, oils are great! I never avoid oil in my products, and I will often use a few extra drops of my favorite oil blends when my skin is unhappy.</div>
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<b>Eye Cream: </b>I actually have no issue with eye creams generally- I just don't need one right now. I bring my moisturizing products all over my eyelids, and I don't suffer from extreme dark circles, so they are an extra unwanted step for me.</div>
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And that sums up my routines! A total of 10 steps in the morning and 10-12 steps in the evening. For a complete skincare newbie, remember this particular routine was built over 2 years. A newcomer's routine will include maybe 2-3 products only. My particularly fussy skin demands a high degree of customization- I hope my routine helps you see the potential for great results at all price points and within your own stash. </div>
Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-76457006827746229252017-12-02T12:29:00.001-08:002017-12-02T12:32:05.176-08:00Declutter Tips: How to Destash and Streamline Your CollectionAs the new year approaches, there are lots of us reflecting on the beauty items we acquired in 2017, and are feeling a bit sick or overwhelmed with the state of our beauty stashes. If you are looking to declutter and streamline your makeup collection, this post is for you.<br />
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I am by no means a minimalist. If you are I suggest you check out the blog and videos of <a href="https://www.theannaedit.com/">The Anna Edit</a>. She started out on YouTube as a beauty vlogger but has gradually moved to more lifestyle/fashion while transitioning to a very minimalist beauty collection. Her principles and "capsule wardrobe" ethos apply equally well to makeup, skincare, housewares, and fashion.<br />
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I am a beauty maximalist. I like to have options and I wear quite a bit of makeup on my face. I don't have a signature face that I wear on the daily, so I can't quite get by with a tiny collection. However, that's no excuse for hoarding or collecting useless products. The goal for me is to have a reasonable stash- and while my "reasonable" might not be the same as yours, there are still some good guidelines that every person can follow or learn from. Here are some tips and tricks that I have based on my experience with decluttering makeup many times over the years...<br />
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1. Do not rush to declutter or do it when emotionally compromised.<br />
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2. Separate your collection into "keep, maybe, and no" piles.</div>
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3. Come up with your own "hard limits" and "soft limits."</div>
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4. Place your "maybe" pile in a box and store in a closet for 1 month before trashing.</div>
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5. Return all products that you can. Sell any that are worth it. Throw away what's left. </div>
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6. Do not declutter and then haul right after, or do it to "make room" for new things.</div>
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Do Not Declutter When Emotionally Compromised</h2>
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I frequently hear people bemoaning the state of their bloated makeup collections, and in a guilt-wracked haze, they trash a huge number of products all at once. This is not a good idea. By decluttering as a means to punish yourself for your past mistakes, you will not learn your lesson, and you are doomed to repeat the error of overbuying. </div>
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Bingeing on destashing/minimizing is just as harmful as bingeing on a shopping spree. You are taking the shortcut that you think will lead to happiness or satisfaction. But happiness doesn't ever come about as the result of actions taken in a single moment. Happiness is usually built on repetitive good habits. If you are feeling extremely upset, guilty, or overwhelmed, it is <i>not </i>a good time to go shopping or to tackle your makeup clutter. Do something relaxing and not drastic like taking a walk, a bath, or talking to a friend.</div>
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Decluttering is a task, not a journey of redemption, and it should be undertaken when clear-headed and rational. If you are having difficulties approaching your makeup destash with a level head, your first step should be to write out your makeup collection goals. Try to understand what you will use, what you will enjoy, and what you should own before literally dismantling your collection. Once you have made that list, sit on it for a week and see how your perspective changes. Then start your destash.</div>
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Separate Your Collection</h2>
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Every person has holy grail, use-it-every-day items that they don't have to even think about keeping. Those should automatically just go back to your shelf/drawer without worrying. The difficulty comes in separating the products you <i>might </i>still want to keep, and the ones that you should absolutely get rid of. For someone who has a large, unthought-out collection, or trouble letting go, this gray area is the challenge.</div>
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When I go to a restaurant with a large menu and can't decide on what I want to eat, I first subtract all the low-hanging fruit options that I definitively don't want. You might only have 1 single lipstick you know you hate, or maybe you have 10 bronzers and you realized you never wear bronzer. Just separate those out right away to get some momentum.</div>
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Hard Limits and Soft Limits</h2>
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What makes sense for one person to keep doesn't for another. All that means is you cannot use somebody's exact rules for yourself. If you wear red lipstick every single day, and you like to wear a different one based on the weather and your outfit, then for you 15 red lipsticks could be reasonable. Wearing each of them at least 5x a year could be your metric for keeping. But if you wear red lips only once a month, and you have 3 red colors that you haven't worn in over 2 months...then your rule for red lipsticks needs to be much stricter.</div>
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Your exact time limits and usage rates will vary based on the individual product, so it's helpful to write out a list of your personal rules. Example list, based on my collection and my makeup habits:</div>
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1. Lipsticks that have not been worn in over 60 days must go</div>
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2. Eyeshadows that have not been worn in over 3 months must go</div>
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3. Base products that have not been worn in over 30 days must go</div>
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4. Highlighters that have not been worn in over 60 days must go</div>
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It's better to come up with these rules first, write them down, and keep them in front of you when you're rummaging through your makeup pile. If you don't have <i>some </i>hard limits, you will always find yourself justifying the items you have some affection for.</div>
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If you feel that you are responsible and reasonable enough to handle it, you can also make a list of "soft" limits, which are a bit more wishy-washy and up to interpretation. If you are doubtful about your abilities here, nix the soft limits list and stick to hard limits. Example list of soft limits:</div>
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1. Keep 2 dark vampy lipsticks in collection, regardless of last time I wore them, as I will probably wear them in the autumn.</div>
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2. Destash 2 out of 3 "funky" highlight colors, keep the last 1 in case I have a costume or festive look to use it for.</div>
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3. Keep this lipstick I haven't worn in a year, with the understanding I must wear it at least twice in the next 2 weeks.</div>
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Fake Destash</h2>
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A common fear for people approaching a decluttering project is that they'll <i>all of a sudden </i>need or want the product they threw in the trash, and they won't be able to get it back. Even though this situation almost never materializes, it's important to work with your fears rather than making this a painful process.</div>
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Something that has helped me and many other Nervous Nellies is to place your "maybe destash" items into a box, put that box in a hidden place (under the bed, in the closet, in your car trunk) and then not touch the box for a month.</div>
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If you find yourself wanting to use a product inside that box, you may remove it, but you may not sift through the box to shop around, and you may not impulsively repatriate your products into your everyday collection.</div>
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I recommend setting an alarm for 1 month from your declutter date, and keeping the box of maybes completely out of sight. What usually happens is that you completely forget that box, and you never even think of the products inside it. This can be a very comforting exercise, because it reassures you that you really don't need anything you put in the box. And if you truly end up needing it, well you can always grab it.</div>
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Some people extend this to 3 months or 6 months, and if you have the room to store something like that for a long period of time, that's fine. Remember that the longer you go with the item hidden and forgotten about, the higher the likelihood that you do not need it and never need it again.</div>
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Types of Destashing</h2>
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In my opinion, the best thing a recovering makeup addict can do for their future (financial, emotional, etc) is to <i>return every single unwanted item </i>that they possibly can. In the USA this is easy as pie- any store with a membership program will allow you to return items without a receipt even, for between 30-60 days, usually for a refund, sometimes for store credit. Even drugstores will allow this, usually with receipt required but not always.</div>
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I know a lot of people have reservations about returning items, and I have <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/01/why-i-dont-feel-guilty-using-return_27.html">written an extensive blog post</a> on the subject. The TL;DR is that guilt over returns is entirely unnecessary, from my perspective, and that if you are currently battling an overshopping issue that affects your life and happiness, returns are a great tool to help you out of your problem.</div>
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There will be some products you cannot return. For those, you can choose to gift them, sell them, or trash them. In my opinion, the "gifting" option is quite a big waste of mental energy, and often contributes to denial over how much of a clutter problem you have. I have seen dozens of claims that beauty boxes are a "worthwhile investment" because you can give unwanted mini lipsticks/conditioner samples to friends as gifts. All this does is justify more spending in the future because you have the illusion of a safety net- in reality it's rare to give a <i>used</i> beauty item in a way that is satisfying to gifter and giftee. You are not saving money- if you give your friend nice, thoughtful gifts for Christmas anyway, a used deluxe sample of a random liquid lipstick is hardly going to cut down on your gift list that year. At best you are spending extra money on unwanted items that <i>may </i>work for another person. At worst, you are fooling yourself into acquiring more crap and lying to yourself about what your priorities are.</div>
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The exception to this rule is for very beautiful, high-end or expensive products that would genuinely stand alone as a thoughtful gift, that simply didn't work for you. Provided there is no big-time wear, those items can usually be sold or gifted. Because of the terrible resale value of most makeup, it doesn't make a lot of sense to post something for sale online unless the original price was more than $50. Nobody wants a $10 blush or $5 lipstick from an Internet stranger when they can buy it from the retailer for a similar price. Sell items if you feel you can recoup <i>some </i>cost, and give items to beauty-loving friends if they are beautiful or the person has expressed interest in them. Otherwise, trashing is the best option for used makeup.</div>
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When you throw a makeup item away, you teach yourself a valuable lesson about the consequences of spending money carelessly. If you feel a twinge of guilt or pain over throwing away something beautiful that you once wanted, you can store that emotion and recall it the next time you are about to buy something just for the heck of it. Maybe you bought that eyeshadow palette because it was deeply discounted, even though you knew you wouldn't get use from it. How much value was it, in the end, despite the discount price? Or perhaps you impulse-bought a lipstick from the drugstore because you had a terrible day at work, but you found the color and formula to be utter crap. Next time you're having a bad day, you might choose a healthier option like going for a walk, having a good necessary cry, or going out for coffee with a supportive friend.</div>
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Enjoy Your New Collection</h2>
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At this point, you have the tools to create the best version of your current makeup collection. The easy trap to fall into is to now start fantasizing about an <i>even better version </i>of what you have. Now that you got rid of so many lipsticks, think of all the new ones that could fit into your drawer! Wrong. This is the time to breathe, "lean in" to what you own, and be invigorated by the fact that you know you love what you have. If you start to bring in new elements, you are only clouding your vision. Think of how crappy you felt the first time you realized you owned too much stuff that you didn't use. Now enjoy that that feeling is gone.</div>
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You can always buy new products in the future. But you decluttered for a reason- and that reason sure as hell wasn't "to be able to make room for more clutter." If you find yourself itching to replace old products, revisit the lists you wrote out for soft limits/hard limits. I find that once I've done a destash, a great distraction and reminder of just how awesome my collection already is, is to do a full makeup inventory! That means breaking out the ol' spreadsheet program and cataloging exactly what you own. Figure out what your goals are going forward and arrange your inventory in a way that furthers those goals.</div>
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If you want to use up products, keep track of how long you've owned your stuff, and how much progress you've made on each product. If you are determined to stick to a budget, write out all the dollar values of each product you own to grasp how much money is already tied up in your collection. There are so many ways to appreciate what you already have- so don't ruin your fresh and clean perspective by immediately buying more crap. </div>
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Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-20450042752827637242017-11-27T19:32:00.001-08:002017-11-27T19:32:16.182-08:00Low Buy/Mindful Consumption Plan for 2018Welcome back to my blog! I've taken a hiatus since May, sticking to Instagram and Reddit, but I'm back. I wanted to kick it off with a post about mindfulness in beauty going into the new year. I spent a lot on beauty items in 2017 and I want to have a plan going into 2018, as I played fast and loose with makeup and skincare this year. I kept to a strict low/no-buy for perfume in 2017 and majority of 2016, so that gives me confidence to plan these categories out.<br />
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<b>What I struggle with:</b></h3>
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<li>"Treat yoself" whenever I have a crappy day or get bored</li>
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<li>Going down rabbit holes of finding the <i>perfect</i> X and buying something after a week of <a href="http://i0.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/original/000/022/524/tumblr_o16n2kBlpX1ta3qyvo1_1280.jpg">Charlie/Pepe Silvia</a> research...only to realize I never needed or wanted that X thing in the first place.</li>
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<li>Buying things from my <i>favorite</i> brands, whenever they come out with something new or have something that remotely catches my eye (Tom Ford, Hourglass, Fyrinnae, Besame, NARS)</li>
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<li>Shopping as an activity- the worst part of this is once I start/get the ball rolling, I'm way more likely to keep going. I'm the person that has a 2 month gap in her Sephora order history, and then 5 orders in the span of 2 weeks. I want to start breaking myself of that tendency.</li>
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<b>What I don't struggle with:</b></h3>
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<li>Spending beyond my means (I always stay well within my Fun Budget, which doesn't even touch my Important Things Budget)</li>
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<li>Buying close color dupes (I can self TMO with the help of Temptalia's <a href="https://www.temptalia.com/side-by-side/">shade comparison tool</a>)</li>
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<li>Shopping random brands (I tend to be strict about avoiding brands I have no experience with and can't swatch in-person)</li>
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<b>2018 No Buy Schedule</b></h2>
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<b>January </b>NO BUY</div>
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<b>February </b>OK to shop</div>
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<b>March </b>NO BUY</div>
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<b>April </b>Ok to shop (coincides with Sephora sale)</div>
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<b>May </b>Ok to shop</div>
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<b>June </b>NO BUY</div>
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<b>July </b>NO BUY</div>
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<b>August </b>NO BUY</div>
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<b>September </b>Ok to shop</div>
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<b>October </b>Ok to shop</div>
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<b>November </b>Ok to shop</div>
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<b>December </b>Ok to shop</div>
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<li>I am least prone to emotional buying in the summer months- I am most happy and sociable during this time, so compulsive shopping is already not a problem. I will take advantage of that headstart by doing a solid no buy during the summer.</li>
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<li>No buys are easier to stick to once I get going, so I don't want to intersperse too many "Ok to shop" months with no buys as I feel it'll throw me off. I'm going for multiple consecutive no buy months to reinforce the habit.</li>
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<li>I do well with time-bound challenges, so I think it will be easier to stick to no buys for 30, 60, 90 days rather than a strict dollar limit.</li>
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2018 General Guidelines</h2>
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<li style="text-align: left;">No drugstore makeup, period, except replacements for the 1 or 2 drugstore items I use regularly</li>
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<li style="text-align: left;">Repurchases are fine, no stocking up majorly</li>
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<li style="text-align: left;">No shopping while in pajamas, in bed, or while watching TV (like snacking, shopping becomes easier the more comfy you feel)</li>
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<li style="text-align: left;">Using gift cards <i>does</i> count as breaking a no buy- I will not use gift cards during my no buy months. The act of shopping, period, makes me want to shop more, so even if it's free money, I'm still engaging in the addictive behavior.</li>
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<ul>
<li>Stick to Sephora and Beautylish as much as possible- considering I don't shop drugstore beauty, there's no reason to shop at Ulta. Ulta's high shipping minimum tricks me into hauling more. It's also easier to minimize expenditures when they're spread across 6 or 7 retailers compared to only 1 or 2.</li>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<b>New Item Wishlist</b></h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicLahiFt_6dIUWKnpV_q9KuUzh5cRpCHElq_3KUwBrflVScC5pvaKTPizYMZD_5h97bHhtxODQPgJ28JIQGBhGI20ENbMzLOxoSjVVq-dtgjf4d7uyvgQr2_IYGeGnbDeiM4raqBlEj8gl/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-11-27+at+7.00.38+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="799" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicLahiFt_6dIUWKnpV_q9KuUzh5cRpCHElq_3KUwBrflVScC5pvaKTPizYMZD_5h97bHhtxODQPgJ28JIQGBhGI20ENbMzLOxoSjVVq-dtgjf4d7uyvgQr2_IYGeGnbDeiM4raqBlEj8gl/s640/Screen+Shot+2017-11-27+at+7.00.38+PM.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Example of my "wishlist" for 2018</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Instead of keeping a disorganized running list of things I want, I will have a more structured wishlist for 2018. There will be a mandatory cooling-off period for <i>any </i>new item of 4 weeks per piece. I am going to, to the best of my ability, avoid hauls and make single-item purchases. Because I nearly always shop on Sephora's site anyway, free shipping isn't an issue.<br />
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The above list shows product slots/categories that, in a vacuum, I can see myself wanting and acquiring in 2018. I wanted to do this before I got wind of what will <i>actually</i> be released in 2018, because that will only confuse me with shiny new pretties. This list represents only the number of "new to me" items I will allow myself to purchase. So I can continue to buy 7 or 8 units of my favorite Holy Grail cleanser in 2018- but what the list does is allow for me to try 2 new cleansers if I decide I want to.<br />
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I believe this itemized wishlist will suit my needs because I can sometimes go on category binges where I acquire 3 or 4 new things in one specific category slot all at once, and it always causes issues. Usually I end up not using each of the items enough, and it either sits around until it's too late to return, or it just feels shitty to have to return a bunch of these ill-planned purchases.<br />
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For my favorite color cosmetic categories, I'm being fairly generous. I'm hoping by having, for instance, 8 slots available for 2018 purchases of "single glitter shadows" that I think very hard about any glitter shadow I decide to buy, and I'll be a bit more discerning. I want to avoid category hauls at all costs, so if I have 8 "slots" available across 12 months, I'll mentally be prepared to allocate more gradually.<br />
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For my "basics" categories that have been settled for more than a year, I'm allowing 1 extra purchase- for instance I only own one brow product that I use every single day. I love it, it's Holy Grail- but if I decide I want to try something else, I can do that once in 2018. Same goes for highlighter and concealer.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Concluding Thoughts and More Resources</h2>
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If this post resonates with you or makes you consider a no buy/low buy, then I suggest drawing up your own customized plan, as everyone's habits and weaknesses look different. An excellent resource is Reddit's Makeup Rehab <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/MakeupRehab/">subreddit</a>, where users discuss their successes and failures and offer support.</div>
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If you struggle with social media encouraging your mindless consumption, it can be good practice to take a break entirely. If you think you can handle without going cold turkey, curate the people you follow. Unfollow all brands as well as large "influencers" who receive free products for reviewing purposes. Those will dull your ability to understand consumption in real dollar terms. Follow YouTubers and Instagrammers who focus on finishing their products, anti-hauls, and shopping their stashes. Some of my favorites:</div>
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<a href="http://badoutfitgreatlipstick.blogspot.com/">Bad Outfit, Great Lipstick</a> who can be found on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reneesanatomy/">@reneesanatomy</a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRhWLcYnXo8&list=PLd_Pj2sNBO3dHv6N9abVjG2AOO0G4AmuJ">Kimberly Clark's</a> Anti-Haul series on Youtube, which spawned a whole video format</div>
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<b>Some social media hashtags to check out:</b> #panningcommunity #projectpan #shopyourstash #projectuseitup #makeupempties #skincareempties #antihaul #panporn</div>
Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-44074766078099230892017-05-18T18:35:00.002-07:002017-05-18T18:35:45.896-07:00Social Media Update and Apologies for AbsenceI haven't posted in about a month, and I've been missing interacting with all of you on the blog. I apologize for my absence- I had a family emergency and it kept me from my beauty hobbies and writing. I'm currently catching up on work and play, so I won't have a full-fledged blog post up for the next few days, but until then, I wanted to let you know that I am very active on Instagram- you can follow me at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/faceonomics/">@faceonomics</a><br />
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My Instagram is dedicated toward the material that's too abbreviated for a full blog post- product reviews, quick thoughts, standalone FOTDs, and swatches.<br />
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Please follow me and say hello if you're on Instagram! I've missed blogging and chatting with each and every one of you. Thank you for your patience- as always I'd love to hear your post requests if you have them- skincare, makeup, theory, anything. See you soon with a new post!Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-39418432324163732212017-04-07T11:52:00.003-07:002017-04-07T11:52:22.700-07:00Why I Love and Hate The Ordinary<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicd-7yDhJfBgVJh6uDz09OQM1VgvG6OUkVArq2V9OC-Ees26vPXppWc3xjKuTeMUWa0TUEHQZqkD8B3xAC5IaZHKAvfNhAj0MLtHJTibwxRO1Q_085gta3Ob3a05Ls0gdiNxmNqgiPQajM/s1600/theordinary+site.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicd-7yDhJfBgVJh6uDz09OQM1VgvG6OUkVArq2V9OC-Ees26vPXppWc3xjKuTeMUWa0TUEHQZqkD8B3xAC5IaZHKAvfNhAj0MLtHJTibwxRO1Q_085gta3Ob3a05Ls0gdiNxmNqgiPQajM/s640/theordinary+site.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">via <a href="https://theordinary.com/">theordinary.com</a></td></tr>
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<br />The Ordinary, which is the low-cost and simple line from parent company Deciem, has been growing in popularity over the last year and I think in the past 3 months the hype has reached a fever pitch. I find that anything that gets too popular too quickly attracts a lot of attention, positive and negative. I've found myself reflecting on deeply negative and positive feelings toward the brand. This is a meandering discussion of those feelings and where I think they come from.<br />
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This is not a product review, although I have tried many of their products and even more from their sister brands. I am more interested in exploring the feelings and thoughts I have seen pop up in the skincare communities online and in my own head while observing the growth of this innovative and unique skincare brand.<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
The Active Ingredients</h3>
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It's hard to fault The Ordinary for their brand's understanding of active ingredients. They use scientifically-researched old standards and promising new ingredients and deliver them in a refreshingly transparent manner. As a consumer bathed in green-washed lies of Ancient Coconut Oil Magic and force-fed products whose active ingredients aren't even functional at the pH the product is developed...it's nice to see a company use the ingredient at the right pH and concentration that it claims to. I have noticed a great deal of people who find their formulary honest and straightforward.</div>
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On the flipside, I have witnessed pushback and myself felt a twinge of annoyance at the other side of the coin. The Ordinary (and its sister brands Hylamide and NIOD) are so focused on the scientific portion of the skincare experience that it has alienated customers. It can come across as hardlined and elitist.</div>
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I personally think that there is room in the skincare market for this type of bald focus on active ingredients, even at the expense of alienating folks who want a more holistic, gentle experience of being marketed to. I have personally seen many routines belonging to skincare enthusiasts who happily use perfumey and luxurious expensive creams alongside a bland and basic Ordinary product. The Ordinary seems to be positioning itself to be the discreet but powerful companion to the artsy, indulgent items that we all enjoy. </div>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
The Formulary</h3>
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Continuing on a similar theme, this is an area where I <i>personally</i> feel a big cloud of emotions and opinions forming. Because The Ordinary's focus is actives, it leaves out the other piece of the pie. If a skincare product isn't "cosmetically elegant" i.e. fun or enjoyable to apply, then it drastically reduces a person's desire to use it. Skincare is part health, part hobby for many of us. If it were like taking a vitamin pill, nobody would post Instagram photos of their 10-step skincare routine or spend hours discussing their favorite products with strangers online.</div>
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So many of The Ordinary products are formulated for maximum potency of actives. Rather than <i>optimizing</i>, which is the practice of maximizing one variable in relation to the other, The Ordinary seems to max out and go balls-to-the-wall with whatever ingredient they are featuring. This means they sacrifice the feel and comfort in much of their line, all in the name of chemical efficiency. I think this is good in a way- it turns some consumers away but it also gets the message across that The Ordinary takes skin health Very Seriously. There is nothing more important to The Ordinary than getting the active ingredients we pay for onto the customers' skin and working.</div>
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Many people, including myself, complain about the stickiness, greasiness, graininess, and generally baffling textures of multiple items produced by the brand. What this means is The Ordinary is certainly losing potentially good customers, customers interested in their value proposition, by formulating their products with such a singleminded direction. But nobody can be popular with everyone, and no one brand can satisfy the whole market. What The Ordinary is doing is giving customers highly simplified options that are undeniably effective, even if they are not comfortable.</div>
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I worry that people using The Ordinary won't enjoy the products enough to use them long enough to see results. While several of their products have results that can be measured and observed within days or weeks, others claim to have a lasting effect that will manifest over the course of months or years. Peptide serums like the Matrixyl 10% use ingredients whose effects are subtle and far from immediate. If the serum doesn't feel or smell nice, <i>and </i>it doesn't show results quickly, why would a customer stick with it? When the price is the only persuasive factor, the argument for repurchasing dramatically weakens.</div>
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You want to give the customers multiple avenues to excuse and justify their expenditure on your product. When they have no silky skinfeel or beautiful fragrance to enjoy, their justifications shrink, and they might end up not repurchasing.</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
The Repeat Customer</h3>
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The Ordinary has expanded past their initial launch and each time they announce a new product, there's plenty of excitement. However I still do see the medium and long-term customers' interests waning with time. The excitement over spending $5 on a serum overcomes the initial distaste for smell or texture...but the longer a person uses that item, the price paid becomes a distant memory and therefore less "valuable" as a component of the experience.</div>
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The Ordinary does an amazing job of capturing new customers and creating excitement. What I wonder is how many customers they will be able to retain long-term. I know that the products I recommend to others are the ones that bring me a little shiver of joy when I use them. Many of The Ordinary's products are, well, ordinary. They are ordinary by design, but that means they can come across as joyless.</div>
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When someone is looking to insert a potent active into their routine, it's possible that's exactly what they want and need. Maybe The Ordinary will build a long-term and loyal fanbase because of their cheap, purpose-driven range. Then again, maybe people will become disenchanted with the negative or plain aspects of the brand and begin to dislike the brand in general.</div>
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I think of the skincare brands that have attained household name status in the last decade- and there are quite a few, contrast with my teenage years when it felt like Estée Lauder and Clinique were IT. These newer household name brands blow you down with brand image, fantasy, and combine it with cosmetic elegance. A brand like Tatcha has good products, but by no means ones that are so effective they warrant the price tag for every item. The brand image is essentially snake oil dipped in rice wine and powdered with geisha makeup. But it doesn't matter! That purple and gold packaging, those scents, that skinfeel...it seduces customers. It keeps them wanting more and imagining what they <i>could </i>be if they own the latest Tatcha release.</div>
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Of course this kind of aspirational luxury pricing and brand image can really hurt customers. They end up paying high prices for items that either do nothing, or do a mediocre job. I think that for people disenchanted with high prices and underperformance, The Ordinary is a breath of fresh air. But I do question The Ordinary's ability to really delight consumers and <i>fully</i> <i>convince</i> them of value after the initial low-cost shock-and-awe strategy.</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
The Price</h3>
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That brings us to price- which is a huge factor in determining the success of this brand. Without the positioning as an ultra-low cost skincare brand, I doubt The Ordinary would have captured the loyalty of so many people who are admittedly offended by its inelegant textures. To put up with greasiness from a $5 bottle is reasonable...to do so with a $150 bottle...not so much.</div>
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I remember when The Ordinary first launched and I saw the hype building at a feverish pace. The first thing people remarked on was how damn cheap it was. Could it be? A company producing serums and acids for less than $10 each? Nobody had seen anything close to this before, and I think The Ordinary did an amazing job of entering the market with a bang. If you're going to be inexpensive, then by all means, be so dirt cheap that people <i>have </i>to give you a shot.</div>
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I think that because of the development costs associated with creating a perfect product- one that feels good and works- that's why you see such simple, targeted, but unpleasant formulas. At such a low price. Each skincare user has to decide for him or herself if they can put up with certain inadequacies if the payoff is worth it in another way.</div>
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Something I rarely think of, but which comes to mind with The Ordinary, is that being cheap is not always a good thing when you're selling to consumers. Brands like Drunk Elephant and Sunday Riley, for instance, keep customers coming back partially because they are so damn expensive. When someone is looking for a gift, or a treat for themselves, or they are pining for good skin and want to be seduced and encouraged, they look for fantasy and beauty. A brand which cultivates an image that's greater than the sum of its parts, through sometimes eyeroll-inducing marketing or exaggerated claims, can still capture much of the market. If you make ostentatious claims, you attract users, and if you aren't completely lying, well, you can retain them despite your initial promises being overblown. And when you <i>do </i>deliver big-time, as with the Sunday Riley Good Genes product, a chemical exfoliant that I wouldn't dream of paying more than $15 for that goes for $150, you get fans who are willing to fight and die defending your high price as "very much worth it." There <i>is </i>a cachet that accompanies high prices, and so it's a valid strategy to chase that type of reputation. It can pay off in the long run.</div>
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I think it is fantastic that we now have options for chemical actives and ingredients that were only available at absurdly high prices in the past. More competitive formulas on the market will force innovation and perhaps bring prices down a bit. Although The Ordinary is <i>so </i>low-cost I doubt it's cannibalizing any profits from the really high-priced stuff. I think it's more of a stepping stone to skincare for people intimidated by prices but eager to learn about the science. Indeed, The Ordinary's parent company Deciem has several other higher-cost brands under their umbrella, and I'm sure The Ordinary serves as a gateway drug to attract new customers who can burn cash on their nicer lines.</div>
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The Distribution and Service</h3>
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When I first began thinking about this post, The Ordinary did not have any distributors in the USA. In the UK they had Victoria Health, but in other countries, they sold their products exclusively through their own website. I ordered three times from their website and each time was what I would consider to be an unpleasant customer service experience. First, they took about 5 days to ship. Second, they did not have all their products stocked while simultaneously announcing new releases. Third, their followup customer service was like wrestling a slippery eel. I did not feel a great deal of warmth or goodwill toward the company after my experiences. I began to resent that a company was so focused on new releases and they weren't putting in what was, in my opinion, a very fundamental piece of work to retaining their existing customers.</div>
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However, recently The Ordinary partnered with Beautylish and the San Francisco-based beauty e-tailer now carries their full line. I couldn't be happier about this partnership because Beautylish has consistently amazing customer care. Their service is proactive, unobtrusive, and quick, which is exactly what you want as a customer. </div>
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I think that The Ordinary's stocking and service issues were getting so huge that they could not have survived 2017 without 3rd party distribution. When the manufacturer faces the customer directly, and the customer finds the transaction unsatisfying, that poisons the goodwill and the reputation of the brand directly. That kind of stain is very hard to remove, and once somebody thinks of your company as having shoddy service, you've usually lost them forever. I had already decided to never purchase a Deciem product again when my best friend Beautylish decided to carry The Ordinary, at which point I decided I <i>might </i>be willing to give their products another shot.</div>
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Finding a reputable distributor who can go above and beyond with taking care of your customers was a smart move for The Ordinary. I had heard people excusing their poor service and shipping times saying that "you get what you pay for" and that people ordering low-cost items shouldn't expect good customer care. This is entirely the wrong way to look at it- because the majority of the market will not think of companies in this manner. The Ordinary was right to course-correct and find someone with the infrastructure in place to stock and ship items in a more streamlined fashion.<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
Concluding Thoughts</h3>
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I don't consider myself a fangirl or a hater of The Ordinary. I'm very intrigued by the strong market position they've taken- I truly do believe they're doing something unique. Whether their strategy pays off remains to be seen, but they are surely creating an enormous buzz and capturing an untapped market of potential skincare-users.</div>
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Everyone's bundle of considerations (price, delight, aesthetic, personal skin chemistry) will be slightly different. So of course you will find people who despise the brand and who love it, based on their differing perspectives. This is true for any brand, and I'm curious to watch this type of market discussion/impression play out with the bold stance The Ordinary has taken.</div>
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Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-34837996525688408282017-03-24T14:16:00.001-07:002017-03-24T14:41:59.847-07:00What I'm Not Gonna Buy: Sephora Sale 2017Inspired by the Queen of Anti-Hauls, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrW_sSP0N5A&list=PLd_Pj2sNBO3dHv6N9abVjG2AOO0G4AmuJ"><b>Kimberly Clark</b></a> (<i>Clark...Clark</i>), and the awesome and very-conscientious <a href="http://badoutfitgreatlipstick.blogspot.com/2017/03/anti-haul-aka-what-im-not-going-to-buy.html"><b>Renee over at Bad Outfit Great Lipstick</b></a>, I put up an <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BR6R4uxgWL7/?taken-by=faceonomics"><b>instagram post</b></a> on the revelations I had about the blush haul I had planned for Sephora's upcoming (semi-annual) sale. Once I did, it got my Makeup Rehab juices flowing, and I felt like writing an extended cut of that post, including all the other shit I was contemplating adding to my collection, but ultimately decided against.<br />
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Bite Beauty Whiskey Lipstick</h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">via <a href="https://sephora.com/">Sephora.com</a></td></tr>
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<b>Why I Want It:</b></div>
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<li>It's very similar to a DIY shade I made on my own that is beautiful but wears horribly and fades immediately.</li>
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<li>It's part of my favorite lipstick formula line (the Amuse Bouche line.)</li>
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<li>It looks <i>really </i>nice on the brunette ladies I've seen wearing it.</li>
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<b>Why I Don't Need It:</b></div>
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<li>I don't wear vampy lips in warmer months- even though my inner goth <i>wants </i>to, I stay in the nude-to-jewel toned shades until October. If I <i>really </i>want this shade, I can just as well buy it in the fall Sephora sale and enjoy using it immediately. </li>
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<li>I have several dark lipsticks already, which are going to expire in the next few years, and every new lipstick I bring in is incremental "loss" of days I could be wearing all of those.</li>
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<li>I already own Bite Portobello, a true brown which looks ghastly on me alone, that I can easily mix with a red lipstick I own to get close to this shade.<a name='more'></a></li>
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Clinique Pansy Pop Blush</h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">via <a href="https://sephora.com/">Sephora.com</a></td></tr>
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<b>Why I Want It:</b></div>
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<li>I don't own a lavender blush and I think it looks so cute on others.</li>
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<li>The Cheek Pops are without a doubt my favorite blush formula- and I want more of them.</li>
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<li>It would look nice with the grayer eye looks I've been enjoying lately.</li>
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<b>Why I Don't Need It:</b></div>
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<li>I do like cool-toned looks but I don't wear them <i>that </i>much. It's warm tones for 75% of all days.</li>
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<li>When I actually look at people's <i>face pictures </i>wearing Pansy Pop, I realize that it's more of a soft pastel pink, not a true lavender.</li>
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<li>I already own a gorgeous pastel pink blush I wear plenty, Tarte Dollface, which is nowhere close to being used up.</li>
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<li>I'm deeper in skintone than the majority of people who <i>love </i>this blush, which means I may not end up enjoying it as much as they do.</li>
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Hourglass Dim Infusion Blush</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.sephora.com/productimages/sku/s1581297-main-Lhero.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://www.sephora.com/productimages/sku/s1581297-main-Lhero.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">via <a href="https://sephora.com/">Sephora.com</a></td></tr>
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<b>Why I Want It:</b></div>
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<li>It's the only other color in the Hourglass blush range that's remotely interesting to me (I own and love Mood Exposure.)</li>
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<li>It might work as a more sheer substitute for Urban Decay Video, which I destashed last year for being slightly hard to work with (and then bought Surratt Chaleur to dupe...)</li>
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<b>Why I Don't Need It:</b></div>
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<li>Buying a shade simply because I want more of the formula but don't like the color options is silly. I'm clearly settling on the color because I'm blinded by the finish. I'll wait until they release a shade extension or just never get an Hourglass blush again. I don't need another just because the one I have is awesome.</li>
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<li>Looking at multiple online swatches, nah, it's not <i>really </i>close in effect to my late great Urban Decay Video. If you squint, it fits in the same nude blush category, but I have multiple nude blushes I bought in pursuit of duping Video.</li>
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<li>I can mix bronzer and the aforementioned similar blushes to create a suitable dupe. If I went the last 6 months without Video I can go the next 6 months, and I don't need this not-close-enough version.</li>
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Becca Songbird Blush</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.sephora.com/productimages/sku/s1462712-main-Lhero.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://www.sephora.com/productimages/sku/s1462712-main-Lhero.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">via <a href="https://sephora.com/">Sephora.com</a></td></tr>
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<b>Why I Want It:</b></div>
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<li>It looks quite similar to a blush I own and don't use enough- NARS Luster. The reason I've hesitated to use Luster despite the flattering tone is that I am not a fan of the texture of shimmer in NARS blushes. It emphasizes my pores and oily skin in an unflattering way.</li>
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<li>I have and enjoy another blush from the same line, Wild Honey, which, despite being very-pigmented, is blendable and does not emphasize skin texture issues.</li>
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<li>I've had this yearning feeling like I need a flattering version of NARS Orgasm in my life- that all-purpose blush I can throw on without a care. And shimmery orange-coral just seems like it would be that for me.</li>
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<b>Why I Don't Need It:</b></div>
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<li>I feel like I'll be unwilling to sell NARS Luster, even once I get Songbird. I like it <i>just enough </i>that I'm fearful I'll keep both...and use neither. Knowing me it's a distinct possibility.</li>
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<li>I haven't worn Luster in about 3 months, and my skin has improved significantly since the last time I did. I should try it out again to see- maybe it looks fine on me now.</li>
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<li>I already have <i>that blush I can throw on and look amazing in</i>. It's called Clinique Fig Pop and it's the only blush I've made a significant dent in for the last year. Sure, it's not shimmery, but that's <i>good</i>. I don't like shimmer s much as I think I do. Plus with various gold and peach highlighters I own, I can incorporate more shimmer into Fig Pop if I want!</li>
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CoverFX Custom Enhancer Drops in Celestial</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.sephora.com/productimages/sku/s1826940-main-Lhero.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://www.sephora.com/productimages/sku/s1826940-main-Lhero.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">via <a href="https://sephora.com/">Sephora.com</a></td></tr>
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<b>Why I Want It:</b></div>
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<li>I only own powder highlighters.</li>
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<li>I have a mini of this that I almost used up and I quite enjoyed using it in December.</li>
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<b>Why I Don't Need It:</b></div>
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<li>Now that my moisture barrier issues are <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/how-i-fixed-my-dehydrated-skin.html">solved</a> I don't require so much emollience and creaminess in my face makeup. </li>
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<li>I prefer powder highlights for a good reason- I have relatively oily skin and don't need allover shine most of the time.</li>
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<li>I own 2 beautiful champagne-toned highlighters (powder form) that I enjoy wearing, but adding a third champagne one would overwhelm me and make it hard to choose amongst them.</li>
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<li>Liquid products have a shorter shelf life. I can hang onto my powdered highlighters for a long time, but I'll feel under the gun to finish this up and I don't need that in my life.</li>
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Benefit Ready, Set, Brow! 24-Hour Setting Gel</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.sephora.com/productimages/sku/s1820836-main-Lhero.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://www.sephora.com/productimages/sku/s1820836-main-Lhero.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">via <a href="https://sephora.com/">Sephora.com</a></td></tr>
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<b>Why I Want It:</b></div>
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<li>It's my HG brow gel and holds my unruly hairs in place all day long without crunchiness.</li>
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<li>I feel crazy buying it full-price ($24.00) so I like to get it on sale.</li>
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<b>Why I Don't Need It:</b></div>
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<li>I bought a backup in the November Sephora sale and have not even cracked it. My tube from last summer is still going very strong with no signs of changing consistency or running out.</li>
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<li>I could probably buy a second backup but I have a habit of losing extra backups when it comes to storage and remembering where things are. Not taking that chance.</li>
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Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mist</h3>
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<b>Why I Want It:</b></div>
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<li>The bottle is so beautiful- if I had that on my vanity I would feel like an 80s soap opera star.</li>
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<li>Sometimes I do feel like I need a refresher step between skincare layers, and I also enjoy the occasional spritz on-the-go. Also right now I don't have a skin finishing spray similar to MAC Fix+ which I used and loved throughout high school and college.</li>
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<b>Why I Don't Need It:</b></div>
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<li>Nobody will see the packaging except for me and my boyfriend, who will only interact with it in any way if he accidentally knocks it over.</li>
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<li>I'm oily-skinned and prone to dehydration which means I have <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/stretching-your-stash-mixing-skincare.html">a robust wardrobe of daytime-occlusives</a> which prevent moisture loss and negate the need for continuous misting.</li>
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<li>The bottle is too big to tote around in my small daily purse, which means I'd likely only use it at home.</li>
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New Goals</h3>
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All these potential purchases came from <i>some </i>source, so I'm going to focus on satisfying whatever small grumbles I have with my current beauty routine, using items I have in my stash already.<br />
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<li><b>The NARS Luster Issue: </b>I'm going to start layering my favorite gold highlighter with Clinique Ginger Pop to approximate what I'm looking for. Will also pledge to wear NARS Luster 3 times in the next 2 weeks to get an idea of whether I should destash it or keep it.</li>
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<li><b>Skin Mist: </b>I own a couple mists, one which is great, one which is too sticky, and I'm going to pan the good one and decide if I want another bottle. I'll keep the sticky one in my desk at work just to use it up.</li>
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<li><b>Urban Decay Video: </b>I still have not found a really good dupe for the way Video looked on me, but I just don't have any interested in repurchasing it when the formula gave me issues last year. I have to figure out how best to create that effect- I think Hourglass Mood Exposure + Surratt Chaleur may work, but I may have to incorporate a dab of bronzer to pull it together. I already own all those!</li>
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<li><b>Vampy Lips: </b>Wear my vampiest shade, Besame Blood Red, at least once before the end of March. I can tell by how cringey I feel at the prospect of this that I made the right decision saying no to Bite Whiskey. Wearing dark lips is a bit of a chore for me when it's hot out. Good thing I'm not buying a new lipstick.</li>
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Thoughts on Sales in General</h3>
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I think blanket-discount sales like Sephora's 15%/20% off one can be a very good thing. They allow you to pick from a store's whole selection to get what you actually want, however in my case, they also prompt me to consider items I don't want all that much. Because I feel like this sale is so rare (it happens every 6 months, which is not <i>that </i>long to go between sales) I tend to hoard ideas for my planned purchases. I have this idea that if I lump all my expensive purchases into a massive sale order, I'll be making off like a bandit.</div>
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In reality, the way retailers craft their sales strategy gets at my most vulnerable ideas about purchasing and finances. They make me feel guilty for ordering items full-price, and they create an air of urgency that causes me to pull the trigger on orders without fully considering the impact on my collection. </div>
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I think when it comes to blanket-discount sales, I have a tendency to build my cart up further to get the satisfaction of seeing a larger total discount. Which is silly because the discount percentage is static. It just <i>feels </i>like you're saving more money because the dollar amount of your discount grows. But the cart total grows too- most of you are probably like, "Yes, we know this, no shit Sherlock," but it's something I have to always remind myself of.</div>
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<i style="font-weight: bold;">20% off </i>is<i style="font-weight: bold;"> 80% </i><i style="font-weight: bold;">on</i>, which is to say that I'm still spending 80% of the retail price when I buy something on sale, so I'm still splashing out on purchases that I might not have otherwise made. My original sale cart was about $250 total. 20% off $250 yields a total expenditure of $200. Sure, "saving" $50 sounds like a great proposition. But that's $200 more than I'd spend if I just sat the sale out. Or it's $170 more than I'd spend if I just got one item I really wanted. </div>
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Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-16827654002878533112017-03-21T22:09:00.001-07:002017-03-22T11:18:56.132-07:00Hormonal Acne Routine Part 5: Weekly Schedule<h3 style="text-align: center;">
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This post is the final installment of my <b>Hormonal Acne Series</b>:</div>
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<b>Click to Read > <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-1.html" style="text-decoration: underline;">Part 1: Philosophies</a></b><br />
<b>Click to Read > <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-2-first-line_13.html">Part 2: First Line of Defense</a></b><br />
<b>Click to Read > <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-3-surge.html">Part 3: The Surge</a></b><br />
<b>Click to Read > <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-4-cleanup.html">Part 4: The Cleanup Crew</a></b><br />
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I have discovered the following about my own skin from years of trial and error and plenty of research. If you do not <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-hierarchy-of-skincare-needs.html"><b>have the basics of skincare covered</b></a> yet, then you have no business moving on to targeted acne solutions, especially not exfoliating actives. Please use great caution when introducing a new acne-fighting product. My routine is the result of many years of slow introduction and cautious experimentation. It should not be used as a shopping list for a newbie. Please read Part 1 for a summary of my acne troubles and my philosophies!<br />
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My Week in Acne (Calm Week)</h3>
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Some weeks, my skin is groovin. It looks fabulous, feels fabulous, and the only acne on my face is of the healing variety. That is, no emerging active acne, no aggravated clogs, and no intense redness. For these weeks, I maintain my schedule but I take advantage of the calm and enjoy my moisturizing, luxurious routines. I will usually keep up my actives routine but skip clay masking and spot treating with zinc. Since I'm not soothing active inflammation, I just need to keep my moisture barrier happy and avoid causing new clogs.</div>
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My Week in Acne (Crazy Week)</h3>
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On the other hand, I get these weeks- the ones where my skin is going nuts and exploding in every possible way. I've got weeping open acne, emerging cysts which stubbornly refuse to show a head, and bumpy texture indicating widespread clogging.</div>
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The most important thing is to <i>not panic </i>when this happens. I used to panic because I had no backup plan- well now I have multiple strategies to attack all these issues, which means <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/techniques-to-stop-skin-picking.html">I don't have to pick and scratch and freak out.</a> This contributes overall to the health of my skin, as "disruptive" weeks have minimal long-term impact.<br />
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The following routines are "excerpts" and only include the acne-focused parts of my routine. I moisturize heavily each night and also use plenty of hydrating products every morning. All treatments are used at night only, unless specified in parentheses:<br />
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Putting It All Together</h3>
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Pictured here is a sample full morning routine of mine and a sample full evening routine with the acne-targeting products circled in red to show how outnumbered they are by the ones which have nothing to do with acne!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphenCz-tzjS7fEt3sQGL768wTLu7kDwHFGMbS8mWqQfLIX-27uSULIj-TLdsd6fg7IndPv5Ps6BWXPzB3EOgkQuOJRLD0qSXjVVhYZqrkjHlbxwK6tKtb1VQ07YhXoNIQ1tfC7bIevf0P0Q/s1600/IMG_6449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphenCz-tzjS7fEt3sQGL768wTLu7kDwHFGMbS8mWqQfLIX-27uSULIj-TLdsd6fg7IndPv5Ps6BWXPzB3EOgkQuOJRLD0qSXjVVhYZqrkjHlbxwK6tKtb1VQ07YhXoNIQ1tfC7bIevf0P0Q/s400/IMG_6449.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sample Morning Routine with acne treatments circled</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pMLxHOnyPZXlFZbx149t0tIUboNN_mhp15xPyYqpRzelP6QwmtYuZTmGiphAwI21d9lezwb8swDojUWxx-jAdEQPnCpGfsQKAmPk4-zk5mak71JVCqiX3u8GlGzJo3os5VBgNIABWmYW/s1600/IMG_6447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pMLxHOnyPZXlFZbx149t0tIUboNN_mhp15xPyYqpRzelP6QwmtYuZTmGiphAwI21d9lezwb8swDojUWxx-jAdEQPnCpGfsQKAmPk4-zk5mak71JVCqiX3u8GlGzJo3os5VBgNIABWmYW/s400/IMG_6447.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sample Evening Routine with acne treatments circled</td></tr>
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Those of you with sharp eyes who are used to perusing ingredients lists on <a href="https://www.cosdna.com/">CosDNA</a> will see my non-acne treatments do contain anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredients like aloe, panthenol, centella, snail, and bee venom. In fact, I do orient my whole routine toward countering irritation and inflammation, however I do not compromise my moisturizing products by expecting them to serve two purposes. No "servant" can serve two masters- in this analogy all your products exist purely to serve your skin's individual needs. You should expect a moisturizer to moisturize and not to do a ton of things. Part of why my routine is so extensive is that I want each of my products to only serve singular purposes. By layering and combining them I can serve all my skin's needs- without demanding too much from any one product.<br />
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If you are new to skincare, and this looks overwhelming, I'm not surprised! This is not a routine that a newbie should start right off the bat. If it took me years to perfect my current stable routine, that should tell you something. There's no secret sauce- I have no magic knowledge (and if I did, I would tell you.)<br />
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The "secret" is taking months and <i>years </i>to listen to your skin and let it guide you. You have to observe how it responds to each ingredient you introduce. I know from experience some things are a waste of my time, so I don't bother incorporating them. I also see how well my acne responds to some treatments that other people hate. Customizing a multi-faceted routine for your specific types and behavior of acne is something that takes a long time, and if you are patient, you will develop a similarly robust routine that works for you!<br />
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Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-2888285293928781522017-03-21T21:49:00.002-07:002017-03-22T11:19:30.929-07:00Hormonal Acne Routine Part 4: The Cleanup Crew<h3 style="text-align: center;">
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This post is a continuation of my <b>Hormonal Acne Series</b>:</div>
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<b>Click to Read > <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-1.html" style="text-decoration: underline;">Part 1: Philosophies</a></b><br />
<b>Click to Read > <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-2-first-line_13.html">Part 2: First Line of Defense</a></b><br />
<b>Click to Read > <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-3-surge.html">Part 3: The Surge</a></b><br />
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I have discovered the following about my own skin from years of trial and error and plenty of research. If you do not <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-hierarchy-of-skincare-needs.html"><b>have the basics of skincare covered</b></a> yet, then you have no business moving on to targeted acne solutions, especially not exfoliating actives. Please use great caution when introducing a new acne-fighting product. My routine is the result of many years of slow introduction and cautious experimentation. It should not be used as a shopping list for a newbie. Please read Part 1 for a summary of my acne troubles and my philosophies!</div>
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The Cleanup Crew</h3>
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Between my AHA and my azelaic acid, I have a lot of intense, medically-researched power behind my acne-fighting routine. However, for dealing with healing and nearly-resolved acne that refuses to leave my face, I rely on over the counter, less intensive ingredients. Once clogs surface, my skin actually heals quickly if I give it proper nourishment. It's getting the clogs to the surface that's the biggest challenge. The cleanup routine I've developed has made the <i>lifetime</i> of each acne spot so much shorter- the time from when it first emerges to when it's banished for good has decreased dramatically from a few years ago when I first started to experience my adult acne.<br />
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Firstly, <b>sheet masks</b> have been a godsend. Any sheet mask will function the same for this purpose- it soaks and saturates your skin's surface in watery serum for a prolonged period of time (I mask for 20 minutes usually.) For acne that is scabbing over, a moist environment is key to allowing the skin to soften and heal. Just like you want to keep healing wounds moist with a bandage and ointment, a sheet mask works well to soak my "open" acne and seems to speed up the actual healing, with less irritability and hard scabbing. No matter the ingredients, just keeping a wet hydrating sheet on my face for 20 minutes does great things for those scabby bits...I have noticed that when I get those areas "waterlogged" they disappear much faster. However, most sheets masks in my stash also contain lots of anti-inflammatory ingredients that work to reduce redness and swelling of recovering acne. Because sheet masks are inherently hydrating/moisturizing, they make a natural complement to a more drying actives schedule. They are doing acne-fighting work but not adding to potential dryness. I reviewed some of them <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/01/sheet-mask-reviews-acne-treatment.html">here</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7-NKNMGV2LC85YKkusQZ68Dk-nzH9TSdGgE9dUmboRFWQlWbuYpqZFwxoXDf8zLuZDvg14bIcHziXJhAcu8edPGV0GeLMa0T8wQEQBjFj4D7x6Asz0mAV0ffWAnJOf9-Y-k7IgZxIEWQX/s1600/IMG_6441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7-NKNMGV2LC85YKkusQZ68Dk-nzH9TSdGgE9dUmboRFWQlWbuYpqZFwxoXDf8zLuZDvg14bIcHziXJhAcu8edPGV0GeLMa0T8wQEQBjFj4D7x6Asz0mAV0ffWAnJOf9-Y-k7IgZxIEWQX/s400/IMG_6441.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My current favorite acne-soothing masks (Naruko Snail, Innisfree Bija, Secret Nature Aloe, TonyMoly Rice)</td></tr>
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The other moisturizing mask solution is the <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/quick-fix-for-messy-diy-honey-mask.html" style="font-weight: bold;">DIY honey mask</a>, which works on two levels. One, honey is antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, which are key mechanisms to heal active acne. Two, the honey mask, when worn for prolonged periods of time (I try to wear them for 40 min to an hour) will create a similar moist environment as a sheet mask, but without the irritation prolonged sheetmasking yields for me. Besides the base mixture of toner and honey, I will add a bit of oil, serum, or even a bit of tea for extra soothing fun.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeUcaibOX4X0q6xMzeU6lmMr4a81wrzOcDtgetZXpMlNY2iVsg58pixQj6pcLkZ2WLgryBzZU1TmkTxud2DpMWBfNNzozR0EKOfLHQyEsNREZLJ8KN_GwrIuKJzY0GH7i_RzY0hnTdBDc6/s1600/IMG_6342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeUcaibOX4X0q6xMzeU6lmMr4a81wrzOcDtgetZXpMlNY2iVsg58pixQj6pcLkZ2WLgryBzZU1TmkTxud2DpMWBfNNzozR0EKOfLHQyEsNREZLJ8KN_GwrIuKJzY0GH7i_RzY0hnTdBDc6/s400/IMG_6342.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clay mask and honey-matcha tea mask</td></tr>
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My last mask is one I use sparingly- the <b>clay mask</b>. I consider this to be almost on the level of a chemical active, not because of how it works, but because of how drying and potentially irritating it is. I never use a clay mask on the same day as an active. I always moisturize heavily after a clay mask. And I never use a clay mask more than once a week. I will often push out my clay mask to once every 10 days to really make sure I don't overload my skin. Clay works by drawing out surface oils, and that's a slightly temporary cosmetic effect, but bentonite clay, the ingredient in most masks I use, also has shown antibacterial activity in certain scientific studies. I do feel that it has the ability to draw deeper bumps to the surface of the skin, dry out whiteheads and small surface pimples, and soothe irritated skin if used sparingly. I will usually follow my clay mask with a honey mask and even a sheet mask after the first two...because I feel the action of the clay is complemented by the two moisturizing measures.<br />
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In terms of spot treatments ("spot treatments) aka targeted non-exfoliating but nonetheless acne-focused treatments, I do not currently use the most popular one, <b>benzoyl peroxide. </b>I have in the past, and I find it extremely effective. However it can be slightly drying, so always use 2.5% which <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2948929">maximizes efficacy while minimizing side effects</a>. A common alternative to BP is <b>tea tree oil</b>, which my skin loves. Tea tree and BP both have anti-bacterial activity which works on certain strains of acne-causing bacteria. If you've noticed either does not work for you, it means your skin may have predominantly a different strain of acne bacteria affecting it. Tea tree oil should not be used above low concentrations (typically 2-5%), so dilute it in carrier oil (NOT in water, that will grow mold) to use it safely without giving yourself nasty burns. Tea tree oil is a maintenance product for me- I use it regularly even when I have no big acne issues as it keeps my skin feeling and looking calm. It is best for emerging acne and acneic skin in general- I avoid using it on broken acne as it can burn and feel irritating.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM58Nt5auoAmodqXQ3iuPRyrlSPQUVwPN064FXezQFCsC6312ybs1ykBfKNW-qHWvZfwctyjANEgKeMuLlMM6SrhChFu6GFZiTLHuSJc3acVP0uIRhPBSAvyuUP3DQ1Mnv5YfYEP12uUad/s1600/IMG_6443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM58Nt5auoAmodqXQ3iuPRyrlSPQUVwPN064FXezQFCsC6312ybs1ykBfKNW-qHWvZfwctyjANEgKeMuLlMM6SrhChFu6GFZiTLHuSJc3acVP0uIRhPBSAvyuUP3DQ1Mnv5YfYEP12uUad/s400/IMG_6443.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pure tea tree oil should be mixed to a level of 2% before use</td></tr>
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The slightly unconventional/less-popular ingredient (at least in the USA) I love to use is <b>zinc</b>. I think zinc is a bit more common in French formulations than American ones, but it works on American skin, too, hey! My personal experience with zinc is that it is slightly drying when used alone, therefore even if you use a zinc cream with a moisturizing base, you <i>will </i>need to sandwich it with a moisturizing cream and a sleeping pack. Zinc is anti-inflammatory and highly soothing, so it is especially good for acne that has been picked and popped. I personally use a thicker, opaque zinc cream as a spot treatment (spread over smaller areas of my face) at night and a siliconey, transparent zinc product mixed into my moisturizer in the morning.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwTCCooLMUhKGPAljtHfZjEM7aE2kB_xK28uXy4TzR1bpTcxn9ntpV3TqhBe7Kg5Ex03zMlsbuywxFAwCosjNwZ8UWmMhTs0XEQoO-LKePk_1_ecaMgTkRGk2O7z6UVponu1tgY2zlyFYW/s1600/IMG_6444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwTCCooLMUhKGPAljtHfZjEM7aE2kB_xK28uXy4TzR1bpTcxn9ntpV3TqhBe7Kg5Ex03zMlsbuywxFAwCosjNwZ8UWmMhTs0XEQoO-LKePk_1_ecaMgTkRGk2O7z6UVponu1tgY2zlyFYW/s400/IMG_6444.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Both products from La Roche-Posay's Cicaplast Line</td></tr>
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Because the majority of the "cleanup crew" is non-irritating, I can use them all in the same routine with powerful actives without overloading my skin. What I've found over the last few years is that actives alone never get the job fully done. My healing, emerging, and active acne needs different types of impact- moisture, dryness, soothing, etc. By having a multifaceted team, instead of just one "MVP" my skincare game has depth and breadth. The various skin emergencies that used to make me hide and cry are now a minor annoyance which can be tackled by any number of treatments I have in my regular rotation.<br />
<a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-5-weekly.html"><br /></a>
<b><a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-5-weekly.html">Continued in Part 5....</a></b>Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-88481142108358040312017-03-20T19:19:00.004-07:002017-12-15T20:52:20.620-08:00Techniques to Stop Skin PickingI have a bad nervous habit where I pick my face, whether I have aggravated acne or no blemishes whatsoever at the moment. It's never a good idea. When you have active acne, it makes them more prone to infection and inflammation. When you have no active acne, it disturbs the relative calm of your skin.<br />
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There are no upsides to picking, only downsides. So why do I do it? I've always been fidgety and I tend to move around when I'm bored, anxious, or preoccupied with something. Without realizing it, I'll scratch and pick even when I made up my mind to specifically avoid it.<br />
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Reasoning with Yourself</h3>
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<li><b>You're not going to resolve it with picking. </b>I think a lot of us have this, ahem, romanticized idea that if we squeeze a hard, painful pimple, some little <i>thing </i>will be expelled and the whole problem will go away. In reality, you should already know that the vast majority of swollen acne aren't resolved so neatly. Usually the swelling is <i>not </i>due to a single hard seed, but attributed to a general swelling and filling with fluid. Which means your popping will make your skin bleed and weep, but there won't be a satisfying ending, and the pimple will continue on, angrier than before.</li>
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<li><b>Your makeup will look worse when you pick. </b>This is true for all types of acne and all people. Acne may look troublesome under makeup, it adds texture and obviously is not pretty to look at. But if you've ever attempted to cover a weeping red hole in your face, you know how much more difficult it is to do so. If your aim is to look good for others, picking is not the answer.</li>
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<li><b>It makes the "system" of your skin worse overall. </b>You may think- hey, what's the biggie, just this one spot gets picked, it doesn't affect the rest of my face. <i>Wrong. </i>Picking your skin disrupts your barrier by introducing more germs and dirt from the outside world onto and into your face. What you do to one side of your face affects the other side, period, and generally speaking, picking causes much more harm by producing redness, inflammation, and irritation that lasts long after a pimple would have gone away on its own.</li>
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The reasoning above is the reality of things- but it's not always possible to access that reality and logic. For me, skin picking is an activity I do to relieve anxiety, boredom, and frustration. It comes with an immediate high that accompanies most harmful behavior. I try to coach myself to remember the reasonable reality of skin picking in times of stress, but just <i>knowing </i>the truth doesn't mean I'll act reasonably. I used to beat myself up for "forgetting" the truth in the heat of the moment, but that's not really what was happening. It's just that I had conditioned myself to respond positively to bad behaviors, which means I need to recondition myself not punish myself for forgetfulness.</div>
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Mindfulness Check-in</h3>
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<li><b>Identify the emotions commonly associated with the picking habit.</b> Write them down on a post-it or notecard that you keep at your desk or in your purse. Use the card as a checklist if you start to feel the urge to pick- try to see if your desire to pick comes from one of the listed emotions (anger, sadness, fatigue, anxiety, loneliness, boredom...) </li>
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<li><b>Write up a second notecard or post-it note with a list of strategies for "treating" each emotion</b> in the short-term. If you're fatigued, maybe your technique will be to make yourself a cup of hot tea or coffee. If you're lonely maybe your technique is to text a friend. If you feel anxious, go for a run or a walk.</li>
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Distraction Techniques</h3>
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<li><b>Wear a ring to twiddle and twirl</b> when you want to make a repetitive movement that's not harmful. They make special rings with movable parts but I just twist a normal ring I wear daily. It has the benefit of being nowhere near your face, so your hands are unlikely to wander.</li>
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<li><b>Wear a rubber band or hair tie</b> around your wrist. When you feel like you want to pick, snap the rubber band instead. Usually people only do it once to jolt themselves out of the urge, but as long as it's not too painful, you can snap it a few times in a row.</li>
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<li><b>Set time goals</b>- tell yourself instead of picking now, you can do it in 5 minutes (then 10, then 20, then 1 hour.) The point of this is to get used to the stop-and-wait technique. You may have to build it slowly and it feels like a failure at first, but it's better to wait 5 minutes then pick than to do so at 0 minutes.</li>
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<li><b>Touch up your makeup </b>every time you have the urge to pick your face. I find that if I get an unbearable urge to tear into my face, I can get relief if I go to a mirror and fix my brows, base, or lipstick. After spending a few minutes concentrating on a beautification ritual, not only have I broken the immediate urge off, I also have improved my appearance to the point where ruining it by picking seems like a <i>very </i>bad idea. You can make a habit of this by popping a few beauty products in your purse to carry everywhere- a single lipstick, a pressed powder, and a brow or eye pencil will serve as simple tools to help distract you.</li>
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Anti-Picking Skincare Products</h3>
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I tend to pick less when I'm on the go (since the shame of strangers' horrified looks is usually enough to dissuade me) but I have picking binge-marathons when I'm sitting at home, usually by myself. In order to block my skin picking from every taking place, I like to do the following:</div>
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<li><b><a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/quick-fix-for-messy-diy-honey-mask.html">DIY honey mask</a>: </b>this mask can be left on for an hour or more, and it's impossible to pick your skin <i>through </i>the mask. You will just be a goopy, smooth creature with nothing to pop or pick at. The added benefit is once you rinse it off, you will have spent an hour conscientiously doing something nice for your skin, which makes it more troublesome to start messing it up again. It's why you're likely to binge on donuts after a few days of being lazy, but less likely to do so right after you go to the gym.</li>
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<li><b>Sheet mask: </b>Sheet masks are great for 2 reasons- first they form a literal barrier the entire time they're on your skin. You can't get through to pick when you have a sheet on your face. Second, they tend to soften the type of dry, scabby patches that are most tempting to pick at. They're good for general healing once you've found a few that work for you. <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/01/sheet-mask-reviews-acne-treatment.html"><b>Here are my favorite anti-acne sheet masks.</b></a></li>
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<li><b>Hydrocolloid bandages: </b>Whether it's the CosRX Pimple Patches or a large hydrocolloid dressing you trim to size, these bandages serve to both drain open pimples and keep your fingers away from the skin. There's no way to pop or prod a pimple when it's under a thick layer of bandage, and you have a nice flat, drained area to look forward to when you remove it in the morning!</li>
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I need to make it clear that, whether you're interested in skincare or not, picking at your skin is a form of self-harm and is not healthy or productive. If you are a skincare hobbyist like I am, that can help with the picking issues, but it can also make them more prominent and worse. For me, picking my face is not a <i>skin </i>problem. It's a mental health/emotional issue that is a manifestation of the same few negative impulses I've had for a long time. I always need to keep an eye on it, see how it's developing and why, and seek help from a doctor if it gets out of hand. I do see a therapist specifically for my issues and I feel it's made a huge difference in my ability to process my emotions in the last few years.<br />
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If you have your own specific techniques or exercises for your skin picking habits, I'd love to hear it in the comments! And if you enjoyed this post and want to see more of me, check out my <a href="https://www.instagram.com/faceonomics/">Instagram</a> @faceonomics!</div>
Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-51842136957703653432017-03-17T21:01:00.001-07:002017-03-20T21:19:02.762-07:00Makeup Marketing and Beauty Guru Culture I have been watching "Beauty Gurus" on some form of social media for more than a decade now. Online beauty reviews and blogs have existed for a while, as well as makeup discussion forums like Specktra and later Reddit, but I think YouTube was the ideal platform to launch the current iteration of what we now know as a Beauty Guru (hereafter abbreviated as BG.)<br />
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Because makeup is a tactile and visual medium, words only go so far. If you can't be there in person with a makeup artist or fellow makeup lover, video is probably the next best thing. With the explosion in variety of social media platforms over the last several years, BGs have found wider audiences and even greater Internet (and sometimes IRL) fame.<br />
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In the past, BGs were either professional makeup artists with some spare time and a flair for video editing, or they were ordinary women/men who dedicated a lot of time to a hobby but maintained a separation between work/real life and their online presence. Before the space exploded, being an Internet BG was a fairly thankless labor of love. The people who had YouTube followings enjoyed a pretty devoted audience and possibly some ad revenue, but the BG machine didn't fully kick off until beauty companies got hip to how powerful a marketing tool these BGs could really be. Sponsored content in the form of free samples of lipstick turned into sponsored vacations, paid-for teeth whitening, and just gradually exbanded to become entrenched in BGs' lifestyles, rather than being confined to the neat little box of a beauty hobby. BGs drink startup artisanal coffee provided <i>gratis </i>from free coffee mugs with sponsor logos, wearing a robe that they reviewed and received affiliate kickback for. All while checking their social media with thousands of adoring followers, who feel a genuine affection for them and contribute to their overall sense of self.<br />
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The current climate/status of BGs as "influencers" (to use the sterile and slightly horrifying term) is a case of everyone wanting to have their cake and eat it too. Marketing is rooted in the practice of manipulating the human psyche to bring about desired behavior (in this case, the desired behavior is to <i>buy</i>.) I see a few common ideas about marketing at play in the current BG culture.<br />
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The "Trusted Consumer" Opinion</h3>
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In this example, housewives in the 1950s all across America were sold on <b>New Cleaning Product X </b>because a woman whose life was just like their own told them <b>Product X </b>worked well. <i>Well</i>, our housewife thought, <i>that woman looks just like my sister/mom/friend from down the street. I trust her because she seems like she understands my needs, because they're </i>her <i>needs too. </i>And a million Average Jane commercials and advertisements were born. Companies constantly develop ways to strike that nerve and get their potential customers to feel that someone you trust vouches for it. This impulse ties in to people's group mentality, where acting clannish and having a trustworthy network makes them feel safe and like they belong to a supportive community.<br />
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The "Aspirational Figure" Endorsement</h3>
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In this other method, there was the gorgeous actress, who the same housewife had only ever seen in soft-focus motion pictures and retouched magazine spreads. She was impossibly beautiful, cosmopolitan, and has everything our housewife dreams of, though she lives in Ohio, has an insurance salesman husband, and struggles with uneven skintone. But wait, the actress has now endorsed and credited <b>Face Cream Y </b>for her flawless complexion. Even if our housewife can't have the actress' entire life, she can obtain a small slice of it. And that makes the purchase of <b>Face Cream Y </b>a transformative, hopeful act. It's rooted in the desire to be like someone else because you think their life is superior to yours in some way(s.) Humans react in patterns of behavior that allow us to be manipulated by certain tricks. This is not reserved for people of the past, or women, it's all of us.<br />
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The Modern Beauty Guru</h3>
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So that brings us to today. We know for a fact that companies use BGs to market to us. We understand that they are often the personable mouthpiece for multiple faceless corporations. But are they <b>The Trusted Consumer</b>? Why yes, <i>girl</i>, they have man troubles, they eat pizza in their sweatpants, they struggle existentially. How terrifically relatable- they are just like you! But wait...aren't they also kind of celebrities? They get flown around on glamorous vacations, they have no ordinary 9-to-5 job, and they have impeccably-curated and polished appearances (excepting those #important notable exceptions when there's a #nomakeup hashtag floating around and participating to show vulnerability has a greater positive impact on their brand image than a few un-aspirational sunspots would.)</div>
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Beauty Guru Culture has transformed into this monolithic marketing machine that is basically the apex of manipulation. It inspires a Golden Ticket feel in ordeinary girls and women. Nowadays you might not imagine you'll ever be a movie star or <i>like </i>one- that hardly seems achievable...but you can easily imagine becoming like any of the thousands of "Internet-famous" gurus who have devoted fan followings, free shopping trips, handsome boyfriends, and overall "polished" and enviable lives. BGs and their sponsorships/brand partners are trying to have their cake and eat it too, by presenting figures who speak simultaneously to that "trusted compatriot" urge <i>and</i> to the aspirational "I want her life" vibe. We all want to feel connected to others. Sometimes we want the equivalent of a friend who will commiserate with our troubles. Sometimes we want someone to emulate, who will inspire us to become greater. Both of these aspects are manipulated expertly by companies who make good use of BG sponsorships and partnerships. BGs hit that sweet, enticing spot between "just like you" and "better than you."<br />
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Why Do I Care?</h3>
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It's important to understand how people are manipulating you, not so you can become a reclusive off-the-grid type who buys nothing, but so that you can start to weigh your own emotional and psychological responses against what you actually can afford and need to acquire. It's not only that companies want to manipulate us in this way, it's that we <i>like </i>to be manipulated in this subtler, more deft manner, which is what ultimately makes it so effective and insidious.<br />
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I actually enjoy the current climate and saturation of the BG market. There's a ton of value for me as amakeup consumer for me to visit a store in-person to see the newest shade a company releases. I can usually find multiple BGs with my skintone or skintype to compare reviews. I'm not over here tearing my hair out over BGs and their existence. They're not "good" or "bad," they exist and they exist in their current form for good reason. They're useful for companies, and enjoyable for consumers. We crave the beauty humans always have, but many of us have become so self-conscious that we want to diffuse that vanity by somehow making it "realer" and more down to earth. A lot of us want someone that feels so real we can reach out and almost touch them- by chatting with them on Instagram or wearing the same shade of red lipstick (even though nobody paid us to.)<br />
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Though many industries rely on elevating their own version of the Trusted Consumer to manipulate customers, I think the beauty industry is uniquely well-suited to crafting these influences. There is a particular intersection of desire, ego, and vulnerability when it comes to the business of looking and feeling beautiful. It just makes us fish in a barrel for this type of influence.<br />
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How I Balance</h3>
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I find it critical to remind myself: Hey, this person has influences beyond their own "unbiased" thought process impacting the way they disseminate information and communicate it to me. They feel pressures, both spoken and unspoken, internal and external, to speak and act in a certain way, so I cannot "take their word for it." Their own conflicts of interest mean that I should always be reading and listening with a mindfulness to those conflicts...especially the ones which cannot and will not be disclosed or obviously.</div>
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It's important for me to practice holding these two ideas in my mind at once:</div>
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<li>This BG has honest intentions, some type of talent for communication, and is attempting to present something helpful and entertaining. </li>
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<li>I cannot take this presentation at face value because it has more than the BG's conscious intentions influencing it.</li>
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I cannot rely on somebody simply because a company or community has made it appealing to do so. Because of the particular relatable/aspirational mix surrounding the most successful BGs, it's not as simple as the appearance or history of trustworthiness. When you are consuming a piece of media, there is always going to be a message, whether shouted or slyly whispered, that this person is worthy of emulation. Even if the BG doesn't ask or tell you to take action (buy this thing, subscribe to this, sign up for this service) there is always a message.</div>
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A BG's job is simply to do what makes them money and bring them joy. I don't really care to discriminate between the most fame-hungry shill in the BG world and the most open and humble ones. Their intentions and honor are not of primary importance. The position any influencer is put in makes it impossible for them to be entirely objective, so I can't start judging who I think is good or bad. <i>My</i> job as a consumer is to take care of my budget and my mental health, which means doing my own calculations and discounting process to account for the discrepancies between the obvious message and the hidden ones.</div>
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Further Reading</h3>
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<i>Propaganda </i>(1928) by Edward Bernays- particularly <b>Chapter V - Business and the Public</b></div>
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Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-21456422147498676112017-03-17T14:40:00.000-07:002017-03-22T11:19:23.583-07:00Hormonal Acne Routine Part 3: The Surge<div style="text-align: left;">
This post is a continuation of my <b>Hormonal Acne Series</b>:</div>
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<b>Click to Read > <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-1.html" style="text-decoration: underline;">Part 1: Philosophies</a></b><br />
<b>Click to Read > <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-2-first-line_13.html">Part 2: First Line of Defense</a></b></div>
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<i>I have discovered the following about my own skin from years of trial and error and plenty of research. If you do not <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-hierarchy-of-skincare-needs.html"><b>have the basics of skincare covered</b></a> yet, then you have no business moving on to targeted acne solutions, especially not exfoliating actives. Please use great caution when introducing a new acne-fighting product. My routine is the result of many years of slow introduction and cautious experimentation. It should not be used as a shopping list for a newbie. Please read Part 1 for a summary of my acne troubles and my philosophies!</i><br />
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The Surge</h3>
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Even though my cysts are reduced in number and aggravation by my azelaic acid treatment, the clogs that result from my skin's inability to shed quickly remain, dotting my cheeks like little molehills. For these types of "surface" clogs I like to use a gentle, low-level acid formula. For me, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or mandelic acid are all good choices. I've used all of them in the past (<i>not </i>at the same time) and they have been great for different reasons and for different phases of my skin.<br />
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Currently I'm in a phase of using <b>2% salicylic acid</b> three times a week. I find that this is a good sweet spot for my oily/combo skin, but if I overdo it, my skin takes on a beef jerky texture and becomes prone to flakes and irritation.<br />
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In the past, I have successfully used <b>10% glycolic acid</b> or <b>10% mandelic acid</b> as my other regular treatment. If you have dry skin, you can explore the gentler acids with larger molecular size (for lower penetration and hence irritation) like <b>lactic acid</b> but if you have hardier and resilient skin you can slowly work up to the stronger acids as I have done.<br />
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As I mentioned in Part 2, I have a rule of thumb to not exceed two exfoliating actives in my routine at any one time. I experience <b>diminishing marginal utility</b> for each additional acid added. By the time I've incorporated my <b>azelaic acid </b>with my <b>salicylic acid</b>, I've addressed both my deep clogs and my surface ones. Adding a third acid will create 1 of 2 situations:<br />
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<li><b>I have to use acids every single day: </b>My skin looks much better with 4 or 5 days of exfoliation per week, less if the weather is particularly harsh.</li>
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<li><b>I have to forgo using one acid for the new one: </b>This is the "crowding-out" effect that usually happens, whereby I have to sacrifice the number of days using one of my established acids to introduce my new one to avoid overexfoliation. Sometimes it can work, but for me, using fewer acids more times a week trumps using more acids fewer times a week. </li>
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Neither of these situations is ideal for my skintype, problems, or lifestyle. I fear overexfoliation because it always results in worse acne and increased discomfort. For me the signs of overexfoliation begin with a <b>preternatural smoothness</b>- my skin becomes glowy to the point where it looks like glass. Makeup stops adhering to my skin and it looks <i>almost </i>nice, but...too nice. Typically if I keep exfoliating past that point (by using more acids that week or more treatments closer together) my skin will tip over into rough, papery, scaly, and I will actually suffer <i>increased </i>acne breakouts. Fine spiderweb lines will appear and if I try to make a grinning face, I can feel the skin on my cheeks and forehead tighten.<br />
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I do have to juggle my azelaic acid with my salicylic acid, and sometimes that means skipping one or the other. <b>There is no rule that says you <i>must</i> use actives daily</b>- in fact my personal philosophy is that skin is not meant to be chemically exfoliated every day. I think that 5 days of chemical exfoliation per week counts as robust and even for my severe acne it has been plenty. Depending on the week, the weather, and how I feel, I will also back off to use my acids less if I feel like it. Sometimes I will double up on using both the same day and then skip a few days. Sometimes I just skip a few days and leave my skin alone. I have learned to listen to my skin and be flexible with its demands. Too much of a good thing, in the case of acids, is very much a bad thing. <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/how-i-fixed-my-dehydrated-skin.html#more"><b>Dehydrated skin</b></a> can take a long time to recover, and it's best to avoid causing dehydration in the first place.<br />
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<b><a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-4-cleanup.html">Continued in Part 4...</a></b><br />
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Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-17681560006600170082017-03-13T11:19:00.000-07:002017-03-22T11:19:15.428-07:00Hormonal Acne Routine Part 2: First Line of Defense<div style="text-align: left;">
This post is a continuation of my <b>Hormonal Acne Series</b>:</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<u><br /></u></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b>Click to Read > <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-1.html" style="text-decoration: underline;">Part 1: Philosophies</a></b></div>
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<br />
<i>I have discovered the following about my own skin from years of trial and error and plenty of research. If you do not <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-hierarchy-of-skincare-needs.html"><b>have the basics of skincare covered</b></a> yet, then I'll respectfully say you have no business moving on to targeted acne solutions, especially not exfoliating actives. This is not to say that good skincare is esoteric and off-limits to beginners- rather that you need to be patient and careful to create a good routine, and those qualities do not just magically appear if you rush into things. Please use caution when introducing a new acne-fighting product. My routine is the result of years of experimentation, and I tweak based on my skin and other factors depending on the moment. The general philosophies and principles remain the same!</i><br />
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My <b>inflamed cysts</b>, a result of overactive oil glands, less-responsive skin-shedding, and other vagaries of my hormonally imbalanced body, need a hardcore intervention. For me, 15% prescription azelaic acid has been <i>the most </i>effective topical treatment. Better than tretinoin, better than BHA, better than benzoyl peroxide. It works to reduce the inflammation and incidence without excessively drying my skin. Unfortunately in the USA, it's only available from a doctor at the level I use it. Therefore I will recommend you ask your dermatologist if you can use the product. I don't think it's for everyone, but <a href="http://www.snowwhiteandtheasianpear.com/2015/09/a-review-of-pocketderm-why-im-azelaic.html">this excellent blog post</a> by Snow White and the Asian Pear should explain why many people enjoy using it on their own skin.</div>
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The azelaic acid does for me what I've seen tretinoin do for many others. It shows cascading benefits the longer you use it. Like most acne treatments, this is not meant to be used on "spots." You apply it allover with the understanding that the skin is a system. <b>Because the majority of acne-fighting ingredients are preventive as much as they are reparative, this usually works out best in the medium to long-term.</b> I use my azelaic acid between 3 and 4 times a week, for consistent dosage without overdoing it.<br />
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There are plenty of hardcore acne actives- the aforementioned tretinoin and BHA may work better for your skin. The only way to understand what your skin likes best is to <b>experiment carefully and observe the results with each chemical active.</b><br />
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Because of my dry climate and my own sensitivities, I have found that I need to keep strong actives to a maximum of two in my entire regular routine. That means I do not like to stack tons of potent acne-fighting actives. I find there gets to be a "crowding-out" effect whereby I try to fit in the actives to my weekly routine, which means I use them too frequently overall, and my skin grows aggravated and more inflamed and prone to acne, even though the purpose of the routine is to treat acne in the first place. Azelaic acid is the first of my current two. In the past I've mixed and matched other actives, but while the number two may seem arbitrary, for me I find no matter the ingredient, when I push it to three total, things get hinky. I'll talk about my second active in my next post!<br />
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In the photos above, I show what I consider to be a realistic expectation for what <i>one </i>chemical active should do for my hormonal acne. The left photo shows before starting azelaic acid, the right photo shows a month's progress. I do not expect this one product to control all aspects of my skin and perfect it. <b>What I do expect is a reduction in the spread and aggravation of inflamed acne, leaving minor clogs and the occasional larger pimple as an acceptable compromise.</b><br />
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There are blind spots that occur and issues that arise with this philosophy, which is why I compensate in other, gentler ways.<br />
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<b><a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-3-surge.html">Continued in Part 3...</a></b>Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-60010214420862989652017-03-12T21:00:00.003-07:002017-03-22T11:19:06.823-07:00Hormonal Acne Routine Part 1: PhilosophiesMy hormonal acne is a beast and a half. It occupies the lower territory of my face and often encroaches on my cheekbones and cheeks. It needs to be dealt with decisively and efficiently, but <b>my skin responds better to a more multi-faceted and sneaky approach rather than the nuclear option of blasting my face with strong actives constantly</b>. I think of my acne routine as a multi-headed guerrilla force, neutralizing and putting the enemy down before it knows what hit 'em.<br />
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<i>I have discovered the following about my own skin from years of trial and error and plenty of research. If you do not <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-hierarchy-of-skincare-needs.html"><b>have the basics of skincare covered</b></a> yet, then I'll respectfully say you have no business moving on to targeted acne solutions, especially not exfoliating actives. This is not to say that good skincare is esoteric and off-limits to beginners- rather that you need to be patient and careful to create a good routine, and those qualities do not just magically appear if you rush into things. Please use caution when introducing a new acne-fighting product. My routine is the result of years of experimentation, and I tweak based on my skin and other factors depending on the moment. The general philosophies and principles remain the same!</i><br />
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My Types of Acne</h3>
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The first type of acne I commonly get is <b>large inflamed cysts</b>. Cysts are inflammatory acne that are deep inside the skin and do not have a visible head. You cannot squeeze them to empty them and they will often bruise or worsen if you pick at them. I mostly get these cysts on my chin and jawline. I also get them on the inner portion of my cheeks, near my "smile lines."<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOZujGRpJI3sbfT0XIlNeajTH5vQ1Ov5k9omytdu2c_J3tjMg69qo__gTgARL7zJYXNVsiLLXoyerp8rwIulI8O2Bq0ts8oHM3nHQi8CxMQmWgEUwcr92fJ7Gka4CBiR5Qfu4W7idljmuR/s1600/Cysts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOZujGRpJI3sbfT0XIlNeajTH5vQ1Ov5k9omytdu2c_J3tjMg69qo__gTgARL7zJYXNVsiLLXoyerp8rwIulI8O2Bq0ts8oHM3nHQi8CxMQmWgEUwcr92fJ7Gka4CBiR5Qfu4W7idljmuR/s400/Cysts.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pictured here: cysts</td></tr>
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The second type of acne I suffer is <b>general clogging</b> on my cheeks and jawline. These clogs, or closed comedones, manifest as fleshy-looking small bumps with no redness and no head. They are rarely as painful or unsightly as their cystic sisters (band name?) but they are persistent and annoying. I have a bad tendency of letting my hands wander to pick and pop these, since their relatively small size makes them seem easier to conquer. In reality, picking a closed comedone can leave behind a bloody scab that is much worse than what you had in the first place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8kmlh5XVzZs139QHkKRUJwtAego2RbpGw_SX5g5S_fmm-akYcdhaE_HnoY0-Qj5NtPqLD_R_gUchFPe9qcYCOhyphenhyphenh0NImdC8mo2prFwvZX-zz3gsbkRSKNiZoMa9nffRmW2FuDxVSuFthe/s1600/Cheek+clogging.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8kmlh5XVzZs139QHkKRUJwtAego2RbpGw_SX5g5S_fmm-akYcdhaE_HnoY0-Qj5NtPqLD_R_gUchFPe9qcYCOhyphenhyphenh0NImdC8mo2prFwvZX-zz3gsbkRSKNiZoMa9nffRmW2FuDxVSuFthe/s400/Cheek+clogging.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scattered clogs</td></tr>
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While not a "type" of acne, <b>scabs and open acne</b> are a reality of my life. Although I try to reduce the frequency and severity of my picking habit, I have also had to learn to cope with the results of my failure to do so. Scabs can be very difficult to deal with, as open skin carries a risk of infection, and they are impossible to hide with makeup. They are best avoided, but if you cannot, then you can treat them gently while they heal.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxH5ptRiJ1D-RyuqOz5awCzFNkdPVs2pvizZPY7RZfaUiTmDqFuHPzFL-L0ydlLhToICLqAc58Pm1ReJq0XZngTS7dih7Hh4JUNSXtJ93Ob-d7nvfwOn1GWTcPGDlFdkSvF1V2AGRDlcN5/s1600/scab+cyst.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxH5ptRiJ1D-RyuqOz5awCzFNkdPVs2pvizZPY7RZfaUiTmDqFuHPzFL-L0ydlLhToICLqAc58Pm1ReJq0XZngTS7dih7Hh4JUNSXtJ93Ob-d7nvfwOn1GWTcPGDlFdkSvF1V2AGRDlcN5/s400/scab+cyst.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scab from picked acne</td></tr>
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My Philosophies</h3>
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<li><b>No "spot treating:"</b> This might sound a bit wacky- it's not that there's no such thing as an effective concentrated treatment to apply to one area...just that the underlying philosophy underpinning a spot treatment is one I can't get to work for my acne. The philosophy here is that acne treatment is reactionary, it comes after acne forms, and it's meant to "solve" a problem that has manifested visibly. For me, those assumptions aren't true and are counterproductive to an effective routine.</li>
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<li><b>Multiple ingredients: </b>I don't think there's one magic active ingredient that works for everyone. To continue, I don't think anyone has to feel driven to find <i>their </i>"perfect acne-fighting ingredient." For my skin, there are 4 or 5 ingredients I rely on depending on the timing and the nature of my acne.</li>
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<li><b>Better safe than sorry: </b>Many acne treatments can be drying and irritating. They should be kept in balance, and too much of a good thing can be very bad. Overly drying your skin is always going to be worse than keeping it hydrated, even if it means you deal with more acne in the short term. Juggling dehydrated skin with acne is harder than just treating acne.</li>
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<li><b>Manage the <i>entire</i> life cycle: </b>Each acne spot goes through a "life cycle," where it's emerging, flourishing (or festering?), and then fading away. I think that a robust acne routine will address acne that's in each stage of its life, because people like me tend to have something of each category on their face at all times. It doesn't do any good for me to have acne treatments for only emerging acne. </li>
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<li><b>Don't expect all your products to treat acne: </b>When I see people with really ineffective routines bemoaning how terrible their skin feels, I usually notice they have a so-called "acne-fighting" cleanser, moisturizer, and treatment. It's too much. Don't judge a fish on its ability to climb a tree. A moisturizer should moisturize, a cleanser should cleanse. Some ingredients and types of products work synergistically, but if you lock into a 100% acne mindset, you're going to fail.</li>
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<b><a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/03/hormonal-acne-routine-part-2-first-line_13.html">Continued in Part 2...</a></b><br />
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Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8072501560290920951.post-36078276041160421172017-03-10T22:47:00.001-08:002017-03-10T22:47:37.647-08:00Stretching your Stash: Mixing Skincare<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Sometimes, whether you're bored of what you own, or you have some idea of an ideal product in your head, you just need to mix things up. Literally. I love to mix and match skincare items I own to blend their textures and ingredients and get new and different benefits in my routine. I wanted to write about some of my absolute favorite combos!</div>
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Best. Sleeping Pack. <i>Ever.</i></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkDZCht0Ezmqe2PGxCoO8_Kcq_ap0QblApLYEhxYEJpUhGc4NrljmaWuBk8kYUcT6HxCnOjNOVsCN18KInMbjtxJ1fO1aRoCy2X-aPARGO2EgFdAD7KSl99CeAsXt5mo3CQOaaGjchIMrL/s1600/IMG_6283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkDZCht0Ezmqe2PGxCoO8_Kcq_ap0QblApLYEhxYEJpUhGc4NrljmaWuBk8kYUcT6HxCnOjNOVsCN18KInMbjtxJ1fO1aRoCy2X-aPARGO2EgFdAD7KSl99CeAsXt5mo3CQOaaGjchIMrL/s400/IMG_6283.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKVz33TKob6s2gb5SFXCVNTpgWP8gfbTqJXEH2cd3W_NDgaR28F-BdlRTTUcx71H3ab3Xd184Ip7ZqCyr20w7xZRcGZyfp8ODQUHN15e3zxAxpWEzD06ngi3frOCeVM9McfgR_9kUzCuRW/s1600/cerave_cerave+unmixed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKVz33TKob6s2gb5SFXCVNTpgWP8gfbTqJXEH2cd3W_NDgaR28F-BdlRTTUcx71H3ab3Xd184Ip7ZqCyr20w7xZRcGZyfp8ODQUHN15e3zxAxpWEzD06ngi3frOCeVM9McfgR_9kUzCuRW/s200/cerave_cerave+unmixed.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1I8TseQyauLtkxAOozRfy2cymasKnAnANOt1-1NQ5B5wUBkgkEGpCb_okR3cvXnWRKiaGpAkZQcKKJxYO7JHnVah_90RPV3QdKpowSlF-7YCuKuLWvqOE3WWdhMKg1z7ErcErTy_-HYmB/s1600/cerave_cerave+sunk+in.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1I8TseQyauLtkxAOozRfy2cymasKnAnANOt1-1NQ5B5wUBkgkEGpCb_okR3cvXnWRKiaGpAkZQcKKJxYO7JHnVah_90RPV3QdKpowSlF-7YCuKuLWvqOE3WWdhMKg1z7ErcErTy_-HYmB/s200/cerave_cerave+sunk+in.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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I discovered this superb combination when I was desperate for a heavy sleeping pack. Something more protective and occlusive than my gel-textured Asian packs, but with a less-greasy feel than the classic "layer of Vaseline" technique. The silicones and small amount of water-based goodness within this mostly wax/oil based formula create a slippery, non-sticky heaviness that's delightful. Used alone, the Healing Ointment is incredibly heavy in a good way, but it does have a bit of a greaseball finish. It's not as bad as Vaseline but eh...not too elegant a finish.<br />
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The Cerave Moisturizing Cream is a light-medium moisturizer. It's lightly hydrating, moderately occlusive, and not too emollient (oily.) This velvety light texture makes it an ideal "carrier" for something a bit greasy like the Ointment.<br />
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The Ointment provides a heavy "grip" and protective surface that the cream alone lacks. The Cream provides a vehicle for the ointment to fully absorb and sink in without disappearing.These two are a match made in heaven.<br />
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This trick can be performed with any moderately heavy moisturizing cream and an ointment such as Vaseline, Aquaphor, pure lanolin, etc. However, the silicone content in the Cerave Ointment makes it uniquely perfect. The results with the other ointments are not as lovely, sad to say.<br />
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<i style="font-weight: bold;">Try this if you...</i>have a damaged moisture barrier, prefer heavy sleeping packs, use A/C or heating while you sleep.<br />
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Daytime Priming Moisturizer</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDcPg6fPL-NdQOpe5ApL8YMYqMVa7_nDgpszFgPwBODyo6LaudGJ7iXP2wE4_dDA0E_G7SrQL3LnTfLbDEEaSYnhmvXNMM8unDVhtDV9D4zCDrGJNmYtjqe6D7pBR474lo1TXUhbUqPIG/s1600/IMG_6282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDcPg6fPL-NdQOpe5ApL8YMYqMVa7_nDgpszFgPwBODyo6LaudGJ7iXP2wE4_dDA0E_G7SrQL3LnTfLbDEEaSYnhmvXNMM8unDVhtDV9D4zCDrGJNmYtjqe6D7pBR474lo1TXUhbUqPIG/s320/IMG_6282.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbG1ovgc1xNE4Osi1merVZAuFknRSChgyJ4PZLg2gM0hd_xrkiq2pMAEp5OD_0hFdd0nbgwQhB2TsNTFsc6F4iJCWspXb29do0AaA7mwMbbbiIGv4TgRqJ4k2rwmjA4EQ2xKUip2qPndsU/s1600/gel+oil_cica.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbG1ovgc1xNE4Osi1merVZAuFknRSChgyJ4PZLg2gM0hd_xrkiq2pMAEp5OD_0hFdd0nbgwQhB2TsNTFsc6F4iJCWspXb29do0AaA7mwMbbbiIGv4TgRqJ4k2rwmjA4EQ2xKUip2qPndsU/s200/gel+oil_cica.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUy5mVqveSAyz4DfaahmrzT3sip25pUw3-87r5ydideTK0luVEZwuYWdQMOLyyTgCdt5heVtIJ1N1JNburBZPGdWi-t2mUK6XJ0eKnGHpgNI5SYp3XjbtfrZh_A3Ea3JlWXQYpjUDTTedB/s1600/gel+oil+cica+absorbed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUy5mVqveSAyz4DfaahmrzT3sip25pUw3-87r5ydideTK0luVEZwuYWdQMOLyyTgCdt5heVtIJ1N1JNburBZPGdWi-t2mUK6XJ0eKnGHpgNI5SYp3XjbtfrZh_A3Ea3JlWXQYpjUDTTedB/s200/gel+oil+cica+absorbed.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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I discovered the La Roche Posay Cicaplast Pro Recovery Accelerator while googling reviews for its more famous sister the Cicaplast Baume B5. While the Baume is a richer nighttime cream with a white cast, the Accelerator is a silicone gel with the same zinc and panthenol but a much lighter, transparent texture. Like the Baume, the zinc in the Accelerator can be ever so slightly drying. It makes it ideal for oily and acneic skin as the zinc does help heal active acne and prevent new breakouts.</div>
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I find that the two mixed together make an amazing addition to any day cream or used alone when prepping the skin for foundation application. They form a moisturizing but non-greasy barrier that simultaneously stops the water from escaping my skin and stops oils from breaking down my face makeup. I have noticed better wear time with less cracking and more comfort on days I wear this combo under makeup. The majority of makeup primers (expressly marketed and priced as such) are silicone-based yet they tend to sit on top of the skin and mess with subsequent layers. I find this particular combo conforms to and sinks into my skin's surface, yielding an unobtrusive layer that doesn't need to be worked around.</div>
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While I commonly use this as a thin final step before sunscreen, I will also sometimes mix <i>this </i>combo in with some Cerave Cream and use it as an all-in-one morning step.</div>
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<i style="font-weight: bold;">Try this if you...</i>have dehydrated skin and wear makeup, find your makeup cracking near the end of the day, need something soothing and protective when covering your acne.<br />
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Moisturizing Honey Mask (Yes Another One!)</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0AJhp8NRzoSObb3t2FHGCcOCiG8RSSsccWxZSoSJSIYiHutY7Zg6MSR_CRl7NviCuPDaFTNP46yvt3iq2hCPUgv4FPY9cHV_i-OaSnn7Nx7VO-ob3FCN0b6QTO7NddGOEHeBzxQuSUdBK/s1600/IMG_6281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0AJhp8NRzoSObb3t2FHGCcOCiG8RSSsccWxZSoSJSIYiHutY7Zg6MSR_CRl7NviCuPDaFTNP46yvt3iq2hCPUgv4FPY9cHV_i-OaSnn7Nx7VO-ob3FCN0b6QTO7NddGOEHeBzxQuSUdBK/s320/IMG_6281.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq6JIsl9K5Cw-G5wzVylRPK1POdA1KXASzG_xzLLz-SqSubjafzmYLmfecyJVyDUAZZr1WzhAaPb08I-Xkm3i41QWAFZw2NCAtO8vrGI6fRgCGglkG3F_0rQpstqEP75RF5Tf-7wrZyaF1/s1600/honey+avene.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq6JIsl9K5Cw-G5wzVylRPK1POdA1KXASzG_xzLLz-SqSubjafzmYLmfecyJVyDUAZZr1WzhAaPb08I-Xkm3i41QWAFZw2NCAtO8vrGI6fRgCGglkG3F_0rQpstqEP75RF5Tf-7wrZyaF1/s200/honey+avene.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvzhccC34NCaoU3FTKVcHc2jS7xaIBnPYfBe_DNj12wLuS1wma2iaWjIv9Eha69dZkBeSa0U61RHbubZc9_3jIJYNwTN3yWOY60k7MJCQFrAHXvnajS9pfg1XkSpfwVhSB5u7UpASvJ4eY/s1600/honey+avene+mix.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvzhccC34NCaoU3FTKVcHc2jS7xaIBnPYfBe_DNj12wLuS1wma2iaWjIv9Eha69dZkBeSa0U61RHbubZc9_3jIJYNwTN3yWOY60k7MJCQFrAHXvnajS9pfg1XkSpfwVhSB5u7UpASvJ4eY/s200/honey+avene+mix.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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If you haven't already read <a href="https://faceonomics.blogspot.com/2017/02/quick-fix-for-messy-diy-honey-mask.html">my DIY hydrating honey mask</a> post then go do that now. I was used to the honey/toner mask technique when I decided one day I wanted something a bit heavier and more creamy. My favorite creamy mask is the Avène Soothing Moisture Mask, which somehow calms and smooths the skin while also doing a great job of relieving my irritation. I slather it on the night after I have a bad day of skin-picking and it allows me to wake up looking human.<br />
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When I want something with a bit of gentle acne-fighting power, but I'd like an added nourishing component, I mix the Avène mask with a dollop of honey. The nice thing is the honey does not drip at all. It eventually dries to the point where I feel a slight film on my face, un-sticky but noticeable, that dissolves when rinsed. When I use the Avène mask alone, I allow it to sink in and I do not rinse. But with the honey component it does require washing off before you go to sleep. If you are just laying around, it's a fabulous mask to wear for a few hours to reap the benefits of honey without getting it allover.</div>
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<i style="font-weight: bold;">Try this if you...</i>suffer from irritation and acne, need a gentle way to soothe your skin.<br />
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I hope these mixes work as well for you as they did for me. If you don't own the specific products above, you can still easily apply these principles. Some combinations will turn out poorly, but if you don't try, you'll never know!<br />
<br />Lena H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/02629863300729210600noreply@blogger.com4